Husquvarna 350 will not oil chain

[CharlieTR]

Last time I started the saw and testeed for oil none came out.
I opened up the saw and there was a lot of oil soaked saw dust.
The oil port looked good, very small.
I am worried a tube came loose or something like that.
Not much experience with chain saws.
Should oil just leak out of that hole without running motor?
I saw no oil yesterday coming out.

Any ideas what to check?

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[DANOCHEESE]

Every saw I have owned will leak bar oil. Some more than others. If the saw has been in storage for awile, it may take a bit to get the oil pump primed again. Manualy lube your chain up and go cut. Take some oil and pour a small bit on the bar, manually move the chain aorund until the oil get in the groove.

 

[sparrowhawk]

Leakage of B and C oil is normal especially if the chainsaw is ever laid on it's side. I use Birchwood Casey Barricade (gun lubricant) to blast out any sawdust and to keep things lubricated between uses. It works really well and is not sticky/dust attractant like WD40. I have an older Husky 350 and it's designed to fill the oil at the same time you need to fuel up. On shorter uses, just add less oil at a time if you are worried about it all leaking out in storage.

 

[ENTS]

Drain the oil from the tank. I'm pretty sure there's a filter on the intake tube. Change it. Slosh some K1 in the tank to clear out any gunk. Run the saw w/o b/c to see if it frees up. Once working properly, drain the K1 out and replace with bar oil.

The only saw I have that leaks oil when not in use is my 353. I have to put a diaper on it at night (nature of the beast).

Later,

 

[Nitro-Fish]

The 350's have a plastic gear behind the clutch drum/sprocket that will strip out. This is especially a problem when going from a spur sprocket to a rim sprocket set-up. The plastic gear is driven by the clutch drum and there are two different sizes depending on what you are running. The oil pump drive gear will work when going from a spur to a rim set-up, but will not work when going from a rim to a spur set-up; the tooth openings on a spur set-up are larger than on the rim set-up. While the oil pump drive will work when making the change this way, it may not work for long as the new rim set-up has a smaller tooth contact pattern. If you have recently had the saw serviced and the clutch/bar & chain were replaced, this is where I would start looking.

 

[ENTS]

Charlie,

Try this link which gives the ipl(s) for the 350. It'll give you an idea of what's invovled. There are multiple ipl(s) for this saw so you need to id the one for yours.

Download Manuals - Husqvarna Forest Equipment Operation Manuals

 

[arrow]

Drain the oil from the tank. I'm pretty sure there's a filter on the intake tube. Change it. Slosh some K1 in the tank to clear out any gunk. Run the saw w/o b/c to see if it frees up. Once working properly, drain the K1 out and replace with bar oil.

The only saw I have that leaks oil when not in use is my 353. I have to put a diaper on it at night (nature of the beast).

Later,

At the end of the day's use for the saw, uncap the oil side for a moment to relieve pressure built up in the tank. Should abate leakage.

 

[ENTS]

At the end of the day's use for the saw, uncap the oil side for a moment to relieve pressure built up in the tank. Should abate leakage.

Been there, done that, no change. But thanks anyway,


Later,

 

[arrow]

Been there, done that, no change. But thanks anyway,


Later,

Ok. Don't know what else you've tried but I'm not done. I have seen saws leak because of poor fitment of bar against saw. I have also seen them leak when the chain tightening screw is bent which pushes out the bar a tiny bit. Another cause can be too much oil is getting through because the oil adjusting screw is turned all the way up. Perhaps the bar oil hole is plugged and lastly you could have a bad oiler. Talking to my chainsaw guy, half of these saws leak like this so why aren't the other half of 353's doing the same? Perhaps they have a slew of bad oilers from the factory. I'll dig into it more but it should not be something you or anyone else with this saw necessarily needs to put up with. Obviously you are not building pressure in the oil tank as uncapping has done nothing, so this is happening while the saw is running and then excess oil is pooling in that little space in front of the saw where that shock absorber is instead of running down the bar where it belongs. It then leaks all over the place when you sit it down but it is also leaking while you are running the saw only we don't notice that when using the saw. Check some of the above stuff if you haven't already because this sounds like an oiler out of control caused by a bad pathway or mechanical issue.

 

[a.palmer jr.]

Drain the oil from the tank. I'm pretty sure there's a filter on the intake tube. Change it. Slosh some K1 in the tank to clear out any gunk. Run the saw w/o b/c to see if it frees up. Once working properly, drain the K1 out and replace with bar oil.

The only saw I have that leaks oil when not in use is my 353. I have to put a diaper on it at night (nature of the beast).

Later,

Yep, my 353 leaks oil also, same with my 350. Best to store them with all the bar oil and fuel drained because of the ethanol in the fuel.