Howard rotavator??

[Blagadan]

Do any of you have a 4ft Howard rotavator? Care to share your photos, or thoughts on this unit. I'm thinking about buying a 4ft Howard for my 16hp Kubota B7100, just wondering how one of these would suit? I havent seen it yet, just spotted it in a classified add a moment ago. Would like to see a few photos to get an idea what it looks like. thanks

 

[srossman]

I have an older Howard Rotovator that I picked up at a sale. To me it seems to be really well built. I know that when I brought it home, I had a hard time lifting it off my trailer with my bx, so it must weigh over 500 lbs. I haven't done a lot of work with it yet, but what little work I've done, I have no complaints with it. I run it with my BX-23 and it doesn't seem to have any problems with it. I think that it would be the right size for the b-7100. I'll take some pictures tonight when I get home for you.

-Scot

 

[KSopocy]

If you can buy it at a decent price then get it. It wont be a s cheap as a King Cutter. A Howard Rotavator is as good as it gets (the Cadillac)for rototillers for your tractor. It has a real gear box, not a Mickey Mouse (TSC brand) gearbox. Check into finding a dealer near by to get tines, for when you need them. Depending on how hard it was used, check the gear box level. Do not sweat it if it has some slight seepage at the seals, as long as it holds oil (gear lube). Is it a model with 6 tines per plate or 4 tines per plate. If it is a 6 tine per plate it is worth a bit more, because it will have a heavier gear box and will chew thru sod easier.

My brother and I own 5 different Howard models, from 60 inches to 108 inches
We run the 60 inch with a new model JD 4320 and the 108 inch model with a JD 4020 that has a turbo and the pump is set to 119 HP. That big unit is all the 4020 wants and is actually to big, so we just finish till special plots with it. We have a 80 inch model that we use quite regularly on the 4020.

 

[Captinjack]

I have the 48" Howard rotovator and have a manual. Replaced all the tines and bolts. It works well even on my ground that was never tilled.

I blew out the tine shaft bearing opposite to the drive and was able to use a common pillow block bearing with a little modification. Some parts are no longer being made such as the bearing mentioned, but the rest of the stuff is available.

 

[Glowplug]

If you can buy it at a decent price then get it. It wont be a s cheap as a King Cutter. A Howard Rotavator is as good as it gets (the Cadillac)for rototillers for your tractor. It has a real gear box, not a Mickey Mouse (TSC brand) gearbox.

Yup, I agree. If you can get it at a good price you'll have a major find. I can't afford a new Howard Rotavator but I'd love to have one. Even if it costs a little more than a NEW King Kutter it'd be worth the price if it's in good condition.

 

[ccsial]

I have a 60" Howard Rotovator J. I bought if new around 1982 and it has probably about 100 hours on it. Never had a single problem. I just keep it lubed. It is built like a tank.

 

[farmergirl]

I have this same rotovator in your pic which is on the back of a Kubota B6000. I'm having a hard time finding the right kind of shear pin which engages the blades. I have no manual and I was told recently that there is a set screw I need that stabilizes it further. I keep shearing off the pin and then it gets stuck in the hole, deforming with the force. Any ideas? Works great when it's working~

 

[ccsial]

I have this same rotovator in your pic which is on the back of a Kubota B6000. I'm having a hard time finding the right kind of shear pin which engages the blades. I have no manual and I was told recently that there is a set screw I need that stabilizes it further. I keep shearing off the pin and then it gets stuck in the hole, deforming with the force. Any ideas? Works great when it's working~

Welcome to the forum.

My unit does not have a shear pin. It has a slip clutch. According to the manual it can have either. The shear pins shown are near the rear of the PTO shaft. There are two of them. The manual specs. them as 1/4" X 20 X 1 1/2" Grade 2 shear bolt.

My blades are bolted to a square flange. There are 7 square flanges welded to the main shaft and each flange has 4 blades bolted on. There are no shear pins associated with the blades.

I do not see any set screws in the manual. If you could post a picture or two showing where the shear bolts are that would help to see if it is the same setup as my manual shows. My manual is dated 1979. I bought mine new around 1982 and have not yet had problems with it. I only use it about 5 or 6 hours per year.

 

[MarkV]

I have this same rotovator in your pic which is on the back of a Kubota B6000. I'm having a hard time finding the right kind of shear pin which engages the blades. I have no manual and I was told recently that there is a set screw I need that stabilizes it further. I keep shearing off the pin and then it gets stuck in the hole, deforming with the force. Any ideas? Works great when it's working~

Are you referring to a shear pin on the PTO shaft or is there one on the shaft that the tines attach to?

MarkV

 

[david-calif]

I have the 48" Howard rotovator and have a manual. Replaced all the tines and bolts. It works well even on my ground that was never tilled.

I blew out the tine shaft bearing opposite to the drive and was able to use a common pillow block bearing with a little modification. Some parts are no longer being made such as the bearing mentioned, but the rest of the stuff is available.

My neighbor has a 50" Howard that I am considering buying. I tried it out and blew out the tine bearing opposite to the drive. Evidently the bearing is no longer available, but I found a company in IL with a workaround for $84. I would be interested in how you solved the problem. Also if you have an idea of the unit's worth. Is your manual for a model J? Are you interested in selling me a copy of the manual?