How wide is a Deere 2355 and what size implements should I use?

[jon686]

New owner of a 2355, and its not here in front of me to measure. I wanted a tractor large enough to do it all, but am realizing that by doing so I really increased the size of implements required to cover my tracks. Is 6 ft wide enough or do I need to go to 7 ft?

 

[ctlguy]

You will have to measure most of these tractors will have an adjustable front axle if 2wd (except the gpt) and even the mfwd would have had 4 position wheels. Rear tread is also adjustable. Most likely if you want to cover your wheel tracks 6' will not cut it.

 

[jon686]

I loaded it on my 8 ft trailer tonite, probably 8 or 10 inche's on either side, so looks like 7 ft minimum with 8 being even better. Time to look for a deal on some used implements...

 

[Tx Jim]

Congratulations on your purchase. The JD 55 series are some of the best tractors JD ever built. I know because I've owned a 4255 since '93. You possibly could adjust the wheel tread into 6 ft if you desired.

 

[jon686]

Okay, so I purchased a Heavy duty 7 ft bush hog for my 2355. I mean Heavy Duty, like what a road crew would use to cut right of ways. Full chains front and rear, dual tail wheels, probably weighs 1900lbs or so. I t is configured for a 3pt mount, but I am assuming it can also be configured semi mount. It has a ratchet type height adjustment that rotates a tubular bar that both rotating laminated tail wheels are attached to. The ratchet rests on a spring that provides some float action instead of being rigid. It seems to be a little too much for the tractor when carrying it 3pt as the front end gets light (no loader or front weights. I have pulled an MX 10 pull type cutter with no problem, so I am thinking a semi mount setup would be best for this cutter and my tractor. What changes do I need to make to my setup other than just not running my top link. I was thinking about adding a hydraulic cylinder in place of the ratchet to make it operate more like the MX10. Pics would be helpful and I appreciate any advice.

 

[Tx Jim]

I run my JD 709 cutter without the the top link attached because I use a HF quick-hitch and haven't decided how to attach top hook. Except for when needing to raise cutter to trim over a culvert it works just fine. In fact I think cutter follows my rolling terrain better with center-link not attached.

 

[jon686]

Thats what I was thinking too, I know lots of people use chains instead of the rigid bars to allow the cutter to float more. I really have to get the whole sway block thing figured out- a cutter this size with as much swing as I have now really strains the 3pt. I saw a thread somewhere about how to turn them but haven't been able to find it since. Between work, rain, kids, and cold I really haven't had time to just look and figure out what should be obvious. What I would ideally like to do is find a set of stabilizer mounts off some other tractor that will fit and go to a check chain type system. Looking forward to getting it set up right and doing some cutting.

 

[Tx Jim]

Jon
The sway blocks can be turned 90 degrees to accommodate either Cat l or Cat ll width equipment. I prefer sway blocks over sway chains but like the adjustable(sliding with a pin) sway bars the best.

 

[Verticaltrx]

There are at least 3, maybe 4 positions you can set the sway blocks in on those tractors, depending on what you want them to do. It'll tell all about it in the owners manual (which you should get if it didn't come with one.) My only gripe with the sway block system is if you don't keep all the bolts real tight and periodically check them, they'll get loose from all the banging around they encounter. Years of this can lead to stripped out bolt holes, so keep a close watch on them. It's not a bad idea to put some blue loctite on the bolts once you get the setting you want.

 

[jon686]

Ok, thanks for all the comments and help. One more question about " rotating the blocks 90 degrees. In my mind, rotating 90 would put them long ways parallel to the ground. I don't see that being the way to go. Do you mean turn them 90 while they are still straight up and down? There must be bolt holes that run thru the blocks on each side that I haven't seen yet that allow this. Dang weather and the holidays- every time I walk out to look it rains or I have some other project that I get called back into the house to do. Thanks again guys. Pics would REALLY help me out if it's not too much to ask...