If you've hooked any driven implements to your tractor, you'll already know most of what you need to do.
You should see a push pin or collar (pulls back) on the implement PTO shaft U-joints. These retain the detent balls on the PTO shaft to lock onto the Tractor and implement shafts. Pushing the pin (or rotating or pulling the collar back) releases tension on the detent balls (or whatever is used to lock the PTO shaft in place).
Before you try hooking up, locate and operate these locking devices to get a feel for their use. It's also a lot easier to grease the U-joints with the PTO shaft removed from the implement. I am assuming the PTO shaft is not hooked to the cutter gearbox. If it is, use the locking device (push pin or collar) and remove the shaft.
There is more maintenance I would do to the PTO shaft...splitting it to lubricate the drive shafts, for one thing. If you need to do that, PM me and we can go into more detail.
It's probably 90 weight gear oil in the cutter's gearbox. Look for two plugs on the gear box, one on top and one on the side. There may only be one on the side. Remove the plug (or plugs) and fill the gearbox until the level is at the bottom of the side hole.
I'm not sure about the grease fittings you described. However, it you see a Zerk fitting, it's probably best to grease it.
Connect the PTO shaft to the cutter gearbox shaft first. Then position your tractor as close to where it needs to be for hook up.
Connect the lower links to the cutter first (BTW, after manhandling that cutter, you'll probably want to investigate Pat's Easy Change or something like that).
Then, with the tractor engine OFF and the key in YOUR POCKET, look for the machined groove in the tractor's PTO drive shaft. That groove is what locks the implement PTO shaft in place. Pushing the locking pin (or collar) to release tension on the detents, slip the PTO shaft to the tractor's PTO. Make sure that shaft is fully seated by giving it a good pull back once you've got it locked.
Then, connect the top link. For transport (cutter raised by the 3PH), you want that top link tight. For using the cutter, leave the top link long enough to allow movement so the cutter can follow contours or the area you're cutting.
Now that the cutter is rigged, ensure no one is close by. I do recommend using sound protection of some sort (ear plugs).
Start your tractor and, if not warmed up, let it warm up for a few minutes. With the transmission in neutral, engage the PTO at low (1200) RPM. Keep your foot near the throttle in case you need to "blip" the RPM to prevent stalling.
You'll hear two thumps simultaneously. That's the blades extending out. Let them rotate for about 8 to 10 seconds. Expect some vibration. Then, increase the engine RPM to rated PTO speed. Again, don't be surprised if you feel some vibration.
If you haven't cut the field before, it's probably best to walk it first to find any stumps, ruts, barbed wire or anything else other then brush or grass. If you have a loader, I suggest it be installed. The loader works well as a counterweight for the cutter and, by keeping it low during operation, it'll hit any stumps or bigger rocks before the cutter runs over them.
For that first time, I suggest you cut fairly high. I also strongly suggest you go very slow unless you are absolutely certain there are no obstructions hidden by the brush.
I really enjoy brush cutting. First time I did it, the brush was as tall as the cowl of the tractor...some as tall as the roll bar. It was way too thick to walk through so I operated in 1st gear (under 1 MPH). It took me two working days to clear about three acres since it was so thick. It was also the closest I ever came to rolling the Deere 670 I owned then. I ran over a rut (left side) and a rise on the right. That was a serious pucker time for me.
Be careful...if you've a cell phone, have it with you. My wife insists I only operate the cutter when she's home, and I comply.
Also, depending on how thick the brush is...keep and eye on your temperature gage. You'll probably have to clean the grill fairly often...they do clog up fast when brush cutting anything thick.
"Have you inspected the blades for cracks? They should be replaced if damaged."
If you have a loader on your Kioti, lift the side of the cutter high enough (vertical)and let it roll slightly toward the tractor. If it goes over while you're working on the blades, it'll fall away from you and give you an escape route. The tractor can be fixed...you may too, depending on the injuries. I never get under an implement raised by the 3PH, even with jack stands. I will use air or water to spray the underside (while the unit is raised) to clean it, but I give it fair clearance.
Those cutters go 600 lbs or so..that's enough to crush you.
