I'll give you our setup which worked for pipe fence as well as wooden post fences. Both with full height mesh fencing as 4 wire HT leads going from 3ft to 7ft fence height.
9ft between the posts. 75ft beteem H posts
3ft fence 2ft deep
7ft fence 3ft deep
If it only is a HT 3 or 4 wire fence you can play with the depth a bit.
HT wires (i use the synthetic cords) set at 3'' from top of post or 60'' from ground, then 1ft between the next 2. That is suffcient for horses. Where we have sheep on the pastures i run a last HT at 1ft from ground.
Build in fuses: each line has 1 fuse knot every 150ft. I cut the cord and knot it together, in case horses go through the fence (with HT fences that means something else is driving them in panic, so they do have a reason) the knot releases and opens up the line. (wire lines you can twist together 2 ends to make a fuse)
One of our stallions once went through a fence because of fireworks and when we found him he had the cord still wrapped around his body/chest with burn lines where the cord slipped during his run-away. He had to run 300ft to escape the shocks till he pulled the cord from the last post.
Since then:"fused" lines.
1 Trick: do not over-tention the wires. I know it looks great to have ''piinnnnnngggg' tight wires but all you will do is pull out the corner posts and neglect the natural stretch in the wire due to temp fluctuations etc.
They sell springs to put at the end of the line and the last post. buy them as they are great to maintain even tension year round.
Dont be tempted to put your lines horizontal using a waterline or something. You will be dissapointed by the results and your animals (horses also i suppose) will find the spot with the biggest opening and try to get under the fence.
On 'regular flat' land I simply set corner height and the first following H post height. Tension a twine between them and then knock in the posts between them. Isolators are then set x inches from top of each post. On hilly terrain i shorten the distance between reference posts.
BTW dont be tempted to put your isolators on the posts before putting them. It might seem faster and more efficient but when knocking/pushing the posts they will turn and screw up your isolator alignment.
Hope this helps a bit
A last remark: forget about capping the pipes to avoid water getting in an corroding from the inside. We have pipe fencing standing more than 30 years without and still only surface rust. The point is natural ventilation. If you close off the top condens is trapped and you will only stimulate corrosion.
