On spindle grease. I have had both spindles with sealed bearings and spindles with a zerk. If you dismantle the latter, the sealed bearing is only sealed on the outer side allowing grease inside to get into the bearing.
I'm assuming that designers that don't pack the spindle expect centrifugal force to press the grease against the outer housing of the spindle whereby it will be forced along that surface making it's way to the bearings. I have had several that way so I guess that is how they work. We're talking about a hollow cylinder here with a ball bearing mounted in both ends and the spindle shaft routed through the bearings.
On new seals, sometimes you can't even get one pump, if the tolerances are tight. The thing has to wear some before it will take grease.
On other new seals, you can get on it and one pump is easy and then you get the resistance spike which is where I stop.
On things like tie rod ends, with rubber boots, I grease till you see the boot start to move; starts pooching on road vehicles, and starts to lift on farm equip.
On everything else I grease till you see it. On tractor front end spindles where you have bushings against the spindle it can still take 10 or so pumps to see grease and I stop when either end shows it. Usually it's the top, if the lower seal is intact.
On the JD manual and 2 pumps, you really only need one molecule of grease to separate metal parts and if you want to know how small one molecule is, take one drop of motor oil and drop in on your pond. It will spread out till it's one molecule high....amazing. So in that sense it seems adequate. But for me, I want to ensure I get it all covered and I want some reserve so that when pressure is encountered, I have several to replace the ones squeezed out.
This philosophy has worked for me for the 55 or so years I have been dinkering around machinery.
HTH,
Mark