How do you properly use brakes for turning and why

[stevenf]

I'm no longer a tractor newbie with over 200 hours on my machine but I keep seeing threads with folks talking about using their brakes for turning. I've got a M9000 that I use for a multitude of things including plowing and discing so it sounds like it would help me since many of my food plots are small and require backing up occasionally. My brakes have a lever across them that I keep that way I'm sure I need to lift it but what next, push right brake turn right left turn left without the need of steering wheel or ?
Sorry for the newbie question wasn't raised on a farm and certainly never plowed before last year.
Steve

 

[djradz]

Push left brake to turn left, right to turn right. Really convenient when you're slipping and just turning the steering wheel isn't enough, or when the implement you are working with is really pushing you in a way you don't want to go and the turned front wheels just can't do enought to correct it. Obviously, if you're in a really tight spot, and you need to turn sharper than a normal turn will afford, you can just about turn on a dime.

If you have an area you can play around on - you know, something other than your lawn, where you can tear things up a little, give it a try. A gravel road or unplowed garden plot or field are ideal.

 

[bncsauve]

Only one thing to add and that is: In 4 wheel drive, the split brakes don't work very well at all. To get the most affect, make sure you're in 2wd.

 

[FarmDiesel]

Use of brakes for turning (or cutting brakes, as they may be called), is both useful and potentially dangerous...

The dangerous parts first: if you apply brakes unevenly, especially while travelling at any high rate of speed, and you're likely to lose control. Also, if you do it wrong, you stand the potential of damaging your tractor.

The useful parts: Unless you're on glare ice, you need to turn the wheel too. There are two basic turning manuevers to master. First: on slippery surfaces where turning the steering wheel doesn't produce enough turning effect for you (or where you can't keep the tractor pointed straight by using the steering alone), you can use the brakes to help guide your steering. Press the L brake to turn L, and R brake to turn R. If you're on a slippery surface and you crank the wheel over and apply the brake, you can almost pivot in place!

Second: on any surface, if you need to cut a really tight turn (at low speed!), you can cut the wheel over and then apply the inside brake very firmly (L brake for L turn...and so on). This will lock up the inside rear tire for your turn, and cause the tractor to turn very sharply...while dragging a tire. Notes: 1) if you've got a heavy load in the FEL, you're not likely to be able to turn so terribly short anyhow. 2) With loads on the tractor, you're creating a lot of force, especially on the front spindles. Exercise extreme caution. 3) you're going to tear/mark up whatever you're driving on (i.e. don't do this on your nice turf).

Other neato cutting brake tricks: Heavy load in the FEL and not enough counterweight can reduce your traction. If one rear tire is on a slippery surface and the other is on a solid surface, you can apply brakes to the tire on the slippery surface and use it to shift power to the other tire, thereby moving the tractor. Of course, you can use the diff lock as well...but this can be faster/easier/less strenuous on the tractor (especially if you're trying to turn).

The final notes: don't try using cutting brakes with the diff lock on. It defeats the purpose. Be wary of tractors that have automatic responses to applying the brakes (e.g. tractors that automatically engage 4wd when applying brakes). Be cognizant of the loads you're applying to the front axle when using cutting brakes. And again: DO NOT USE CUTTING BRAKES AT HIGH SPEEDS!!!

 

[stevenf]

Thanks bncsauve, I'm always in 4wd unless going to town for service 16 miles one way but it saves me $150 in pickup and delivery so I'll spend my hour there and hour back and get more seat time to boot plus plenty of time to look around quite peaceful actually, I don't make $75 an hour so I'm ahead both ways. I'll try taking it out of 4wd once I get to the plots and try it, It seems like I'd be putting significant wear and tear on the brakes but someone once posted that tractor brakes are designed for this use and they'd outlast many other parts of the tractor.
Steve

 

[djradz]

I have to respectfully disagree. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Even in 4wd, the front wheels work through a differential, so that one can turn a lot while the other turns a little. In fact, I probably use my brakes more for turning when in 4wd, than when not. Usually, I'm in 4wd because I need the extra traction and often, that's the same time when steering/turning with the steering wheel and front wheels just isn't enough. Plowing snow with my rear blade or plowing/disking my small fields (turning sharply at the end of the field after raising the plow or disk) are two occasions I frequently do this.

 

[scott_vt]

Hi Steve,
Where brakes really make a difference is using a row crop tractor with a tricycle front. By applying a brake at the end of your row, the tractor actually pivots right around and you are able to start right into the next row.

As someone else mentioned, this should never be used while traveling at road speed or close to it !!!

scotty

 

[40Kchicks]

Steve

I use my turning brakes on my M9000 all the time. I don’t plow with the tractor; I need the brakes to turn sharp enough inside my poultry barns. Just flip that little lever that connects your brake peddles together, increase your throttle to at least 1300 rpm, turn the front tires as sharp as possible, and gently press the brake peddle that will slow the inner circle wheel. Turning brakes are used at slow speeds. They have saved me from going into a wall many times. I use my brakes in 4wd with no problem. Unlike you I put my tractor in 2wd all the time. I find I can steer a little quicker and easier in 2wd which comes in handy working in the tight quarters I do.

Buy the way I can’t believe you already have 200 hours on the meter. It seems like you just bought that tractor. I must not be using mine enough. I think I only have about 250 hours on it and I have had it since early 2003. My buddy bought his about a 1 ½ years after I got mine any he now has over 700 hours.

Eric

 

[Bird]

One other thing I don't see mentioned. Just keep in mind that the driveshaft continues to turn at the same speed, but it's turning both rear wheels through the differential. When you apply the brake to one rear wheel, the other wheel speeds up a bit so you can really spin a tractor around fast. But if your ground speed is too high, it can also cause you to lose control.

 

[HammerFour]

It's also handy when using a sickle bar mower cutting hay.

When you get to the end of the area you are cutting, wait until the uncut grass is about even with your rear tire, spin the wheel to the right, push the right brake pedal, the tractor pivots around the right rear tier, the sickle bar actually rotates clockwise, let up on the brake and straighten the wheel and start cutting into the unmowed area with no missed grass...if you do it right. It takes a bit of practice.