How do you loosen First Choice GM 84 finish mower blade bar

[ns_in_tex]

I know that the blade bar is threaded and screws onto the threaded spindle with a right hand thread, but how do you hold the spindle & loosen the bar. We tried holding the pulley with a bar while using a hammer on the side of the blade bar, thinking it would unscrew. So far, no luck.

And I might add, we just put the blade bar on this spindle a few days ago, BUT, we used red Loc Tight thread locker on it.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Impact wrench works wonders. You don't have to hold anything. Try it ..... You'll like it.

Good luck!

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[ns_in_tex]

OK, if we don't find an easier way, will do, but will have to make a socket for the blade bar, which is something like 2-1/4"x10"x3/4", since the bar is threaded internally and is the only nut.

Impact wrench works wonders. You don't have to hold anything. Try it ..... You'll like it.

Good luck!

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[Texasmark]

+1 on the impact tool.....priceless. Red Locktite (usually) requires heat to break the seal. Hopefully you can break the nut before you fry the bearing above the blade. Next time use Blue and you will get the holding but will also get ease of removal with no heat requirement.

Mark

 

[Maxify55]

Wanna bet it's CCW threaded?

 

[ns_in_tex]

OK, my reason for wanting to remove the blade bar, is because we have mounted a 29" saw blade to it, which does not have a good center hole. We wanted to joint, sharpen and set the blade. We originally thought we would just remove the blade bar so as to have a good center alignment hole.

Texasmark
Since this was not working out easily, and we did not want to heat the new spindle, and we would have to make a wrench to use an impact, we decided it would be easier to just make a new blade bar to use for sharpening the blade.

Maxify55
Yes, I would bet that the thread is a right hand thread. We had just screwed the new blade bar on a few days before, and was very careful to note this, since the thread direction is the only thing that keeps the 29" dia blade from unscrewing itself from the spindle.
I really did not want the blade coming off and hitting the ground while it was running at 170 miles per hour (15,000 ft per minute). It might want to craw into the cab with me.

It has all worked out well and we now have a sharp blade.

Thanks to all

 

[ns_in_tex]

Reviving old post, hoping it might help someone else.
After reaching a satisfactory conclusion on the above portion of the this post, we decided to remove the 3 blade bars on our 7' finish mower to straighten them because they had a slight bow in them.
To hold the spindle while unscrewing the blade bar, we took a 6-1/4" dado saw blade & cut it into the side of a 2x4 about 1-1/4" deep. We made two of them. With the belt loose, we placed the 2/4's on either side of the 6-1/2" pulley, then clamped them together with pipe clamps on either side of the pulley. Note: we left the belt in the groove, under the 2x4.
Our 1/2" impact would not budge the bar. Our 1" impact, twisted off the 3/4x1/2 impact adapter we were trying to use. We then used our home made break over bar, we built to remove the stump jumpers from our 20' bush hog and the blade bars decided they had to come off.

Problem solved.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Reviving old post, hoping it might help someone else. After reaching a satisfactory conclusion on the above portion of the this post, we decided to remove the 3 blade bars on our 7' finish mower to straighten them because they had a slight bow in them. To hold the spindle while unscrewing the blade bar, we took a 6-1/4" dado saw blade & cut it into the side of a 2x4 about 1-1/4" deep. We made two of them. With the belt loose, we placed the 2/4's on either side of the 6-1/2" pulley, then clamped them together with pipe clamps on either side of the pulley. Note: we left the belt in the groove, under the 2x4. Our 1/2" impact would not budge the bar. Our 1" impact, twisted off the 3/4x1/2 impact adapter we were trying to use. We then used our home made break over bar, we built to remove the stump jumpers from our 20' bush hog and the blade bars decided they had to come off. Problem solved.

Think you need to get a socket for your 1" impact gun for future. No doubt that an adapter would break. Was the adapter " impact" type or standard adapter? Did you mean 1" x 1/2" adapter?

Glad all worked out for you!

Happy mowing!

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[ns_in_tex]

Well, we had made a device to latch over the threaded blade bar (since no nut was involved). We cut the damaged end off an old impact socket & welded the 1/2" square drive end to the new blade bar device, thinking we would remove it with our 1/2" impact. Since that failed to work, the next step was to get our impact adapters, and bring it down from 1" to 1/2", That is when the 1/2"x3/4" impact adapter broke under the pressure of the 1" impact. We then cut the smaller portion of the 1/2x3/4 impact adapter off & welded the larger portion onto the blade bar device.

At this point, we were concerned that the 1" impact might damage the spindle, so decided to use our homemade break over (1"), which we previously used with a 1-3/4"x11' solid round steel leverage bar on our 20' bush hog. When working on the bush hog, 11' leverage was not enough when man handling it ( one man), so we connected to the end of it with a log chain and our kubota. That was enough to get the stump jumper nut off. Fortunately, we did not have to use near that kind of leverage on this blade bar, but at least we had a better idea of the pressure we applied to it, and thought it was easier on the spindle.

Think you need to get a socket for your 1" impact gun for future. No doubt that an adapter would break. Was the adapter " impact" type or standard adapter? Did you mean 1" x 1/2" adapter?

Glad all worked out for you!

Happy mowing!

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