How do I remove my 2360 snow blower PTO?

[dnw64]

I bought this tractor with the snowblower already attached. I've done some searching but can't figure out how to get it off. I do know that you have to remove the front shaft first, because the clevis pin can't be released with the shaft in the way.

It feels like there might be a pin/button on the front U-joint, but I can't really get to it to put any pressure on it with the plastic shield in the way. I can't get the shield to move, although there are what looks like tabs that ought to be holding it in place.

Maybe just because the blower has been mounted and never removed for 10 years everything is just stuck?

 

[dnw64]

I discovered that if you lift it up as far as it will go you can undo the clevis pin. However, I'm pretty sure that's not the way you're supposed to do it, as the instructions on the quick hitch say to attach the PTO after securing the lock with the clevis pin.

Further, I can't imagine trying to line up the PTO slip joint at the same time as trying to get the mount on.

Also, I figured out after getting the blower off, that what felt like might be a button/pin on the front U-joint is actually the tail of the bolt that hold the U-joint to the input shaft.

So any wisdom on the "right" way to remove/attach the blower would still be appreciated.

Now I have another question...

I was planning to leave the quick hitch on there, but the front mounting plate sticks out and down further than I thought it would, and I'm afraid it will be in the way.

I looks like it should come off by loosening the nut with welded T handle in the front/center. Before I break something by putting a wrench on it (can't budge it by hand), is that what holds it on?

 

[blackd]

The PTO shaft is a two piece shaft with the front piece permanently attached to the blower. Leave the Quick Hitch hydraulic lines attached for now, but if you have any, remove any hydraulic lines to the blower. Remove the snow blower from the Quick Hitch by lowering the blower to the ground/floor. Remove clevis pin and then raise the lever that lowers locking point (that raised piece where the clevis pin is inserted.) Drive the tractor backward and the blower should just come of the Quick Hitch foot. If it doesn't come right off the Quick Hitch the blower shoe may be rusted to the Quick Hitch foot. Raise the blower just so it is not touching the ground/floor and shake the bejeebers out of it to break the rust. Lower it and try the backup maneuver. Repeat until the snow blower comes free.

Remove the rear section of the PO shaft from the mid-drive by pushing the spring loaded ring forward and pulling forward on the shaft. It is tight quarters at that area, so if it too is frozen on the drive it may take two sets of hands to work it free. If you need room run the tractor up on ramps.

To remove the Quick Hitch loosen the T-handled bolt and when loose, disconnect the hydraulic lines, then just pick the Quick Hitch up off the front frame. It's a little heavy. You should now have 3 pieces, 1) the rear PTO shaft, 2) the Quick Hitch, and 3) the snow blower.

BTW, with the Quick Hitch you can also fabricate/buy a snow plow, and use the blower/plow interchangeably. Not all snows are equal, and best for a blower. This is my plow build: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ow-plow-mf-gc2400.html?highlight=#post4568226 My costs were ~$650 and ~$500 were for the Quick Hitch/and plow shoe and hydraulics. You would only need the plow shoe and a used plow for manual swivel.

 

[dnw64]

Thanks blackd, lots of good basic info there that I would like to find in the manual... (I have one for the tractor but not the snowblower).

One more clarification, if you would, to spare me working on the wrong end...

Remove the rear section of the PO shaft from the mid-drive by pushing the spring loaded ring forward and pulling forward on the shaft.

Is this at the front or rear end of the shaft?

Thanks again,

David

 

[DaleAP]

Thanks blackd, lots of good basic info there that I would like to find in the manual... (I have one for the tractor but not the snowblower).

One more clarification, if you would, to spare me working on the wrong end...



Is this at the front or rear end of the shaft?

Thanks again,

David

Rear...basically under the tractor seat.

 

[blackd]

dwn64, as DaleAP said it is at the rear end of the PTO shaft. If you remove the snow blower from the tractor it will be obvious. The rear portion of the PTO shaft will remain attached to the tractor at the mid-PTO attachment point. It is underneath the tractor at the seat point.

 

[porky69]

If the blower hasn't been removed in a long time be prepared for everything to be rusted quite badly. Be prepared to use some copious amounts of your favourite rust penetrator/lubricant, mostly one splined shafts.

Last fall when I went to put my blower on the tractor I used the loader to carry everything into the garage with the intention of breaking it down and lubing the u-joints, checking gearbox oil level/condition and lubing the chains. Everything went well until I tried to remove the rear half of the PTO shaft between the blower and subframe...rusted solid enough that I couldn't break it free by hand (actually still haven't got it done but I just finally took the blower off last week and haven't done my summer parking maintenance yet. I guess last time I put it away I didn't lube that spline (like I normally do every year).

 

[irvingj]

dnw, the spring-loaded ring on the mid-PTO driveshaft is, as mentioned, at the rear. Grasp the ring, slide it toward the front of the tractor, and the whole driveshaft should then slide forward and drop off the rear. The front connection is a splined shaft that's supposed to be lubricated and should slide in & out easily, so it can be pulled rearward and off. That rear spring-loaded connection operates just like an air hose chuck.

See the pic of the manual: there's a critical distance that the splined shaft needs to be protruding from the quick-hitch "shoe" mount at the rear. Some folks have had that snowblower driveshaft fly off (not pretty). There are a pair of set screws that secure the short splined shaft in place there; guess they sometimes loosen up.

Yes, that T-shaped screw is how you remove the front quick-hitch, which essentially just hangs on the front cross-member of the frame. I use a hammer to beat on it until it gets loose enough to unscrew by hand. It does need to be unscrewed a fair amount before it will completely release from the bottom of the frame there. I leave it on in the winter if I need the FEL for a bit, but you're correct, it does hang down and will dig into the snow (or the ground) if you're not careful. I also use the hammer to beat on it when tightening it back up. That's not something I want to come loose.

I've found that a wheeled dolly, plus a piece of 2x4 toward the "front" will allow the blower to settle onto it at the right angle -- slightly up at the front-- so it will slide on & off the shoe easily, after the locking lever is released. Also makes it easy to roll around for storage, and re-attachment is just as easy.

If you're ever down this way (or up?) stop by and I'd be happy to show you. (I'm on the outskirts of Hanover, actually closer to Enfield.) There are a few other things that should be periodically checked on the blower/quick-hitch.

 

[dnw64]

Never thought about using a dolly... I have a couple mostly just sitting around. Great idea!

Thanks for the offer - I'm down near Springfield but occasionally get up that way. Will keep it in mind.

 

[irvingj]

Know that area well-- a lot of my relatives lived/live down there-- Lasell, Watkins, Robbins, Howe (the farm that used to be where the motel is by the exit off I-91).
Welcome to stop by any time-- email first : stubby57a@gmail.com.

I also use a dolly for the quick-hitch -- not something you want to try to carry too far!