How do I reinstall a hydraulic cylinder

[stevenf]

I got my repaired loader/curl cylinder back today and just looking for any helpful tips on reinstalling it. For instance will I be able to pull out the cylinder shaft to line it up by hand, its dry right now, once I get it reinstalled do I need to bleed the air out of it someway or will the hyd pump take care of it. Any other helpful tips would be appreciated I'm going to try this without help from the dealer as if you've read my previous post on the subject I'm not to popular with my dealers service department right now, they unwillingly covered it under warranty claiming that I must of somehow moved side to side or today they said maybe I ran into something with it, It was fully extended picking up some dirt from in a spillway channel and the shaft snapped into like a pretzel clean almost smooth straight across right at the cylinder.
Steve

 

[slowrev]

You should be able to pull/push it by hand, it will be stiff though. Don't hook up the hoses till you get it mounted or you will not be able to move it. If you have trouble extending the cylinder, hook up one end and then use a small cable winch (come-a-long) to pull it out to where it is needed to put the other end pin in.

As far as bleeding, just hook it up, fill the res and then run the loader through several full cycles, it will bleed out. Then check your fluid level and top off as needed.

Good luck and happy tractoring.
Ben

 

[stevenf]

Slowrev, Thanks I tryed to pull the shaft by hand when I picked it up this morning just to see and it wouldn't move but I figured once I had the top pinned to the loader I could rig something up, a come along sounds like the perfect tool.
Steve

 

[JerryG]

Steven,
The way that I have always installed large cylinder is to attach the top pin, then hook up the hoses. Then move the valve handle real slow watching as the cylinder extends. You might need some help or it at least helps sometimes.

 

[stevenf]

Jerry, Can you tell I'm still a newbie at this. Use the hydraulics to move the cylinder back and forth what a novel approach! Now I do feel like a dumby. Thanks suddenly it sounds like a 2 beer job with no knuckle busting either.
Steve

 

[stevenf]

Jerry, I'm still at work so I can't try it yet but I got to thinking since 2 cylinders make up the curl circuit and currently one side is removed and one side is connected. When I reinstall the top pin in the cylinder and connect the hyd lines to it if I move the loader lever to open the one that I just installed it will also move the position of the one that is already connected do you think I'm OK using the hyd to line up it seems like with only the one side connected it could get the bucket out of wack or do you think it'll just go until it bottoms out then the other new install will get the rest of the juice and continue to lengthen until it lines up. Steve

 

[Junkman]

Usually the cylinder that has the least resistance will be the one to move first. If you need to turn the cylinder in the bore, the easiest way to do that is with a pipe or other slim long object inserted through the hole at the end of the cylinder. It will turn easily once you have the proper leverage on your side. The air in the cylinder will be purged once you start using the tractor again. As for the dealers attitude, please check the other post. Also, if they felt that you had done something improper with the tractor that led to this damage, they would have had to contacted Kubota and gotten permission to do the replacement under warranty. Personally I believe that Kubota knows about cylinder defects and is addressing the problem one tractor at a time as they break. It is unlikely that Kubota will do a recall of all known defective cylinders and hopes that the machines will be out of warranty by the time that the majority of them fail. This is the same type of issue that BX owners have with the hydro pedal not returning to neutral. Kubota has its head in the sand about this issue and only repairs those that are extremely bad. All the others they ignore hoping that they will be out of warranty when the problem becomes extreme. In fact, Kubota USA, doesn't actually believe that there is a problem. I believe that this type of denial is systemic of all large manufactures today. The squeaky wheel is ignored, and only when the bearings fail and it comes to a grinding halt, it is acknowledged... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> it'll just go until it bottoms out then the other new install will get the rest of the juice and continue to lengthen until it lines up </font>
That's right.

 

[stevenf]

Jerry,Thanks, I just don't want to have to face the service manager from **** if I screwed it up putting it back together. Steve

 

[wushaw]

Keep your fingers clear, I know this may sound obvious but when you get to moving things and lining up moving parts sometimes we foget safety and also the cylinder will have air and maybe jumpy or move real fast due to air pressure untill the air is bled out.