Hot upper rad hose...cold lower rad hose

[kzack]

First let me say thanks to those who replied to my first posting. My temp light is still on and under further investigation, the upper radiator hose gets hot, but the lower hose stays cold nd the radiator itself stays cold. Does this model 2210D have a thermostat? How would I know if the water pump has failed? Any other advise would be greatly appreciated. warm regards, keith zack

 

[Gizmo36]

Start the motor and put some red food color in it and see how fast it moves it.

 

[California]

Any other advise...

There is no thermostat. This sounds like a plugged radiator.

Try flushing it. Use a rag to seal a garden hose into the lower outlet fitting and see what comes out the upper fitting.

 

[kzack]

Thanks guys. Drained and flushed the radiator and it was free flowing and the coolant was clean, no corrosion discoloration. Is there anything else that would keed the coolant from flowing other than a dead water pump? I thought once the water pump died, it would expell coolant, but maybe that's just on an automobile style pump. There are absolutely no visible leaks. Please advise. regards, keith zack

 

[California]

If it's still apart you might try a similar flush of the block since that doesn't cost anything.

Are you sure the belt isn't slipping?

What you might end up doing is pull the water pump to see if the impeller is loose on the shaft or its blades have rotted away. I've never seen this so hopefully someone with more experience will comment.

A replacement waterpump is available from hoyetractor for about $130.

 

[LMTC]

Or from us for about $120. Just because you have clear flow through the radiator from inlet to outlet doesn't NECESSARILY mean the entire radiator is clear....it might just mean that the section that is blocked doesn't interfere with flow. A partial radiator is not sufficient to cool the machine under full load conditions. We shoot four quadrants with a temp gun when under load, and if one (or more) varies dramatically, we presume a section of the radiator to be blocked, and replace it. The bottom near the outlet should be cooler than the top where water arrives from the block, but if one corner of the bottom is dramatically different (same on top) a section is likely blocked.

You need to determine the source of the issue first, or you may replace parts needlessly. You can watch coolant circulate with the cap off....but remember, someone needs to be in the operator's seat for the sake of safety. If you can't see steady circulation, through the cap opening, you likely have a pump problem. If you can, I would guess the radiator is not using full capacity for one reason or another.

 

[Box]

Kzack........

Can you see water flowing in the radiator with the cap off? You should be able to see significant water flow. If so you are getting water flow it is either not enough or as Wayne said you have a blockage somewhere in the system. I am betting on a blockage in the radiator or block. I think some of these tractors are filled with whatever water is handy in Japan and it can be a real mess inside.

Since you have it down I would flush the system including the block a few times. It can't hurt and might help.

I fought some odd cooling issues with my 1610 earlier this summer and after flushing everything for the 3rd time and changing the water pump my issues have all been resolved. I don't think the old pump was bad, it looked good and was not loose but since I had it down I replaced it to make sure.

Also and someone might have already gone over this with you but when you refill your system make are you using the correct coolant mixture. 30/70 antifreeze/water seems to be about right.

Box

 

[kzack]

Thanks so much everyone. The coolant in the radiator is very clean and it has very little movement that I can tell so I leaning towards a pump. Will the coolant flow be obvious when things are operating correctly? I will drain again and flush the block. Everything that flushed out of the rad was extremely clean. I've been running a 50/50 blend. How do I test the pump to see if it is dead? thanks again guys, keith zack

 

[Box]

Thanks so much everyone. The coolant in the radiator is very clean and it has very little movement that I can tell so I leaning towards a pump. Will the coolant flow be obvious when things are operating correctly? I will drain again and flush the block. Everything that flushed out of the rad was extremely clean. I've been running a 50/50 blend. How do I test the pump to see if it is dead? thanks again guys, keith zack

Your best bet is pull the pump and see if it still has all the teeth on the impeller. If it does see if the shaft is lose and or if the seals are good and yes if it is working you will see a lot of water flowing past the neck in the radiator when the cap is off. If is very obvious and if you are getting little or no flow something is not right.

 

[LMTC]

Yes, it is obvious if the pump is circulating the coolant....you will see consistent and forceful movement of the coolant. And yes, they do top them off with muddy paddy water. No question about it. We've seen the results far too often. The water jacket on most units has it's least circulation behind #1 cylinder (closest to operator) and sediment tends to gather there eventually causing that cylinder to overheat.