Horse Pasture Maintenance

[lost in wisconsin]

Good morning,

2-3 years ago we "reworked" some ground to make some more pasture for my wife's horses. It was basically overrun with weeds and thickets. One fall was spent pulling out the thickets and roots. The following year, we had a number of other projects occupying our spring and early summer so we did not get to working the ground until late summer and early fall.

Below are some pictures of the transisition. Since we have 2 horses and limited amout of pasture, we rotate the horses between 3 fenced off areas of the pasture in order to let the grass rebound from a couple of days with the horses.

My question is what others do in regards to fertilization and especially weed control in your pastures? Our pastures are not overly large (< 1.5 acres) which means we could use regular lawn control type products but this can be a bit expensive and we worry about the "time releasing granules" and being injested by the horses. Here in WI, we can get our hands on Milorganite (a biosolid fertlizer) but it doesn't know the difference b/n grass or weeds, so our weeds grow as fast if not faster than the grass. Is spray control the best approach? If so, how long should the horses stay out of the pasture once the spray is put down?

The southern most section of our divided pasture is the best established as it has been pasture for > 10 years. I am able to walk around with a hand spray and take care of the few dandelions and wild lambs ear that pops up. The other 2 are becoming overwhelmed with weeds and we would hope the work we did years before wasn't wasted.

As always, thank you in advance for any insight you have.


lost

 

[MrWhippy]

Best thing for weed control is mowing. Every few years, we use a broadleaf herbicide for persistent weeds. A little lime every 3 years or so. That's about it. But we're in Maryland so our problems differ significantly from yours.

 

[MMagis]

As mentioned, mowing before weeds go to seed takes care of most of them. Occasional spraying with 2,4,D will take care of the rest, if needed. It doesn’t have a withdraw time, other than just let it dry.

 

[torry]

One of my friends uses herbicides and manures, combined with regular mowing

 

[rambler]

Mowing the weeds and some 2,4-D is a typical good weed control deal. There are more agressive brush killers, but doesn't look like any need for those. 2,4-D has a very short restriction, I believe as mentioned wait until it's dry. Read the label, tells you on there. Farm supply stores should have it pretty reasonable.

--->Paul

 

[ustmd]

My wife (they are her horses) shares the same concerns about chemical exposure for the horses. We only do frequent mowing and use a manure spreader and a chain harrow to break up any clumps.

I don't know how interested you are in the "rural life", but several of our friends, who have smaller pastures, have good luck rotating chickens into their pastures after the horses. The chickens break up the manure, eat the fly larva/weed seed and leave behind nature fertilizer. The key is to bring the chickens in 2 or 3 days after you move the horses off that way the bugs develop, but do not mature. Everyone who does this has great looking pastures.

 

[dusty3030]

Mine are bermuda. I am in the South so it is a great pasture choice for me due to it likes heat and is hearty.
I use Grazon which is predominantly 2,4,D product and is safe for horses.
Fertilization is up to what your soil needs (get some samples done) and what you are growing. Bermuda needs lots of nitrogen so I use mainly Urea at 100lbs an acre twice a year. Once in spring and once in early to mid summer before our typical dry spell sets in.
Some tips that would apply to anyone -

Aeration - helps no matter what you are growing or soil type. Horses like to loaf and graze some areas better than others and will pack them down along with their trails they make and your mowing it with a tractor it just makes sense. Aeroate the ground at least once or twice a year. I did mine right before I fertiziled a weak ago. I used a heavy disk with the gangs set straight to cut deep. I am going to build me a pasture aeroator as soon as I can find a cheap old box blade with all the rippers still on it. Until then I used the disk and in bad packed areas a single shanked sub soiler.

Fertilizer - get it from a farm / ag supplier or co-op. I get mine from the nearest to me (10 miles) which happens to be a Crop Production Services location. They have bulk fertilizer and you can use a tow behind buggy for free. I just go with my pickup, hook up to a spreader, they load it on the spreader, pull it home and put it out, bring back the spreader. They can also put it out with their spreader trucks for additional cost, but I only have 10 acres so it makes sense to do it myself. Cost - I put down 46lbs of nitrogen per acre for 10 acres for $352. It would cost three or four times as much buying bags and using my own spreader. Try to do it ahead of a rain. You don't want a lot of granules left on the ground, especially urea, it is dangerous for the horses to ingest the granules if they get too much. I just put mine in the coral until after it rains.

Spraying - Once you "tame the beast" and get ahead of your weed problems you don't have to use as much or as often. Once your grass is established and healthy and you use good mowing and grazing practices the spraying helps you maintain. Watch your pastures, walk them and identify the right times to spray. I just did mine to time when the broadleafs were just coming out. Small weeds / lower rate. Also to get down pre emerge early enough to do good. I should only have to spray again once at the maximum this year if at all.

Manure - a pasture drag is an awesome tool. Drag out and spread out the piles regularly helps get it back into the soil but more importantly good for fly control.

Good luck!

 

[lost in wisconsin]

Thank you all for the replies. I especially appreciate the suggestion to get soil samples. I think we will forget the store bought granules and go with spray for weed control.

Thank you again for your insight.

 

[dusty3030]

Thank you all for the replies. I especially appreciate the suggestion to get soil samples. I think we will forget the store bought granules and go with spray for weed control.

Thank you again for your insight.

Just don't use any kind of MSMA product, it ain't good for the horses.