This weekend I am starting the project to install fencing so that we can finally bring the kids' pony to our new home. I picked materials and have started drilling the holes. I don't have any progress pics yet, just one of materials. I am going with 4 x 4 PT for the posts. I also have some 2 x 4's for bracing in corners and at the gate and ready mix for the same areas.
horse fence going up
- Thread starter mboulais
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The gate is going up between the barn and the garage. The ladies are helping with the readymix and filling holes. The second picture is the view south along the road. The fence will run from the garage corner to near the hedgerow. I pushed back some of the scrub brush along the hedge row so I can keep the fenceline as straight as possible. The southeast corner of the fence will be in the woods by 15' or so.
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No project is without setbacks. I had some this afternoon. The first picture is poison ivy. It is very abundant along the treeline, and yes I think I got into it. Our new property is crawling with the stuff. The next picture is the 14" auger. I am setting corners and gate posts in ready mix, so I am using the big auger. There is a reason they have two bolt holes. I only had on in and new exactly what broke when I heard it go. The 3/4" pin supporting the gearbox took a beating too. The PHD is a little bit on the light duty side for this size bit. I end up making a new pin for there almost every time I use the 14" auger.
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dtd24
Gold Member
RonMar
Elite Member
dtd24 said:
My thoughts exactly. You pictures appear to show very nice blue painted wood sideing on your buildings. If these buildings are part of your containment plan, Might I also suggest an electric line on standoffs(longer than their necks) along any building walls to help keep them from "cribbing" the sideing, particularly at corners and window/door frames.
14" is a pretty big auger for a tractor PHD like you pictured. That is also a lot of concrete for a 4X4 post. A 14" hole will take just shy of 1 cubic foot(150LB, 2.5 60# bags) of concrete per foot of hole depth. They surely won't be going anywhere
Be sure and show us some pics of the finished product, I love a good fence...
dtd24
Gold Member
I have a 4 yr old pony who gets mighty bored in the pen quickly. I didn't even allow them in until the electric was up. The rails on my fence are rough cut lumber, just a thought for money savings. I'm surprised you still don't have snow on the ground!!! How much did you actually get this winter?
How much did you actually get this winter?dtd24 said:I have a 4 yr old pony who gets mighty bored in the pen quickly. I didn't even allow them in until the electric was up. The rails on my fence are rough cut lumber, just a thought for money savings. I'm surprised you still don't have snow on the ground!!!
We got most of the snow in one week. I think the total for that week was 10', but that is lake effect snow measured every hour. Lake effect settles fast, I don't think the accumaltion on my lawn ever got over 4'. It made for an interesting week though. My nieghbor paid to have his roof shoveled after I fell of a ladder doing mine and he had 4' on his roof. Broken vertebrae heal faster than you would think!
I am also thinking of rough cut 2x4 for rails. I am considering a design with a top and bottom rail and two more crossed in between them. While considering this I got to thinking about the top and bottom rail maybe being 2x4 turned on their flats with the "x" inside them. Thay way I don't need to notch the rails of the "x" to overlap them. I am concerned about getting secure attachment of the rails to the posts though.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Looks like a fun project!! I'm looking forward to seeing your pictures as you progress and then the finished job with the pony!!
Eddie
Eddie
I think I've only gotten about 3 hrs to work on this project in the last couple weeks. We settled on an "x" pattern for the fence to be different than everyone within a mile or two on each side of us. I originally bought PT 2x4's to use as corner bracing, but decided to try it as rails and I like it. With the "x" pattern I won't need much for bracing in corners. Especially with 2 80# bags of ready mix in each hole on the corners.
I may try to talk the wife into a simpler 3 rail on the less visible sides (except near corners).
I had to clear some more of the hedgerow to get a straight line opened up for fence posts. I love ripping trees outta the ground roots and all!!
I have had trouble with several holes. One night I was 0 for 5. I couldn't get in the ground deeper than 6" with the 6" auger anywher I tried. The next night I was able to drill two of those holes after removing 3-4 stones each wieghing 10-20 lbs from the top 12" of soil at each hole location. I'd almost swear I put my fenceline right over an old stone wall or foundation.
PHD's may be the most frustrating implement in the world, If I was planning on doing a lot of fencing I would have to build a better mousetrap for sure!
I may try to talk the wife into a simpler 3 rail on the less visible sides (except near corners).
I had to clear some more of the hedgerow to get a straight line opened up for fence posts. I love ripping trees outta the ground roots and all!!
I have had trouble with several holes. One night I was 0 for 5. I couldn't get in the ground deeper than 6" with the 6" auger anywher I tried. The next night I was able to drill two of those holes after removing 3-4 stones each wieghing 10-20 lbs from the top 12" of soil at each hole location. I'd almost swear I put my fenceline right over an old stone wall or foundation.
PHD's may be the most frustrating implement in the world, If I was planning on doing a lot of fencing I would have to build a better mousetrap for sure!
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Luremaker
Veteran Member
mboulais said:Resorted to putting the borrowed backhoe back on the tractor. 1.5 hrs to install, 20 minutes to dig one hole
You should give a post driver a try. No drilling/digging and no need to remove most stones. Best of all no need for concrete.
Luremaker said:
I've seen post drivers for steel posts, I haven't seen any for 4 x 4 posts. I suspect that I would need a much heavier tractor to be able to push a 4x4 through the hard clay and many rocks that I loosely call soil.
I'm down to about 6 posts to go. I took a progress pic tonite, but didn't download it off the camera. I'm not doing any more rails until all the posts are in.
Only corners and around the gate got concrete. The rest are just being back-filled the tamped with the backhoe.
Luremaker
Veteran Member
mboulais said:
I purchased a used shaver post driver in the spring and the ground was getting pretty dry around here but I still managed to drive 6" posts almost 4' into the ground. I have very rocky hard soil and there is no way I will ever be able to use an auger so I went looking for a used post driver. I am using the driver on my L3130 without any problems.
We have not had much rain for a few weeks now and the ground is too hard to drive posts into. I wait till the fall rains come to finish my fencing jobs.
drssg
Elite Member
Luremaker said:
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I posted a question about storing a post driver, but I didn't get any responses. If you have any input on this topic, I would appreciate it.
Rick
Luremaker
Veteran Member
mboulais said:
Here is the photo of my post driver. This photo was taken just after I purchased it. Before I could use it I actually had to buy springs as the previous owner broke the springs and never replaced them. Sorry I do not have any action photos I forgot to take the pictures. Later this summer or early fall as soon as we start getting lots of rain to soften the ground I'll be sure to take a few action pictures.
drrsg,
I almost killed myself trying to install the driver alone on my 3pt. Now it was lying on the ground as in the photo. I was so new to this I did not even have a road block on it and as you could imagine the whole driver portion would slide up and down depending on it's position. I emailed Shaver and they kindly sent me the owner's manual. I decided the best way to store it is lying down out of the way. To install it, I lifted the driver up with my loader and leaned it against a solid post and straped it there before unhooking the chain from my loader. Then backed up my tractor to the driver and hooked it up. Now I have only actually installed the driver once but I had no problems. Using the driver was a piece of cake.
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weedsportpete
Silver Member
dtd24
Gold Member
wow, thanks for that video........I never saw a post driver in action, beside a huge pile driver. That thing looks like a beast. Kinda scary looking.
MikePA
Super Moderator
With the Worksaver post driver I have, the weight of the tractor is kind of irrelevant. The gpm of the hydraulic system is more important, but even then, the gpm determines how fast the ram rises. Dropping the ram is accomplished by dumping all the hydraulic fluid back into the sump which happens when you press down on the joystick.mboulais said:
I (just me, no helper
) drove 187 4" x 4" x 8' PT posts and 40 T posts with my NH TC25D. However, my post driver has legs the driver sits on both for storage as well as when driving, i..e, the legs support the driver not the lower arms of the 3ph which appears how the Shaver driver works. If so, it puts a lot more stress on the tractor. The Worksaver doesn't shake anywhere near as much as the one in the Shaver video.BTW, I set about 6 posts using a post hole digger. No thanks. A driver turns a 2 step process into a one step process. I averaged about 15 - 20 minutes per post, which included tractor set up time. I also marked the ground where every post was going to go and laid a post at each mark. So all I had to do was drive to the mark, set up, drive the post and move to the next mark.
