Hoe'ing on a steep hill

[RayCo]

I have four acres, and the only flat areas on my property are the floors in my house. I try to do most of my digging uphill (tractor facing downhill, but I'm facing uphill while spun around, of course) whenever possible. When I'm digging downhill, it's just too easy to pick up the front end of the tractor or accidentally drag myself down the hill closer to the hole where I don't want to be.

I now need to do some digging on one of the steepest parts of my property. Fortunately, I have good access to do it all uphill, and am only digging here as a source for fill-dirt for elsewhere. It's hard to estimate, but I'm going to guess that the hill is about 30ｰ (pi/6 radians). Well, maybe. That's pretty steep. But, regardless, it's steep. So, my questions or wonderings are:

• Where is the oil pump pickup in a BX24 engine? If it's at the rear of the pan, I'll be a bit worried about having the engine sitting there running pointing downhill (from the tractor's perspective).
• It seems like trying to decrease the angle with the loader could be good in some ways, but it also seems that it could really be quite a strain on the loader as well to have the tractor high off the ground on a hill like this. Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[radioman]

have you considered in removing the loader so its not so tipsy ? when i mow the banks sideways , the loader makes its seem tippy even with loader close as possible to ground. when i removed the loader, it was so much better. Also the mower deck help to lower the center of gravity as well for better control. Have you had your tires loaded yet ? i feel its a must for those who have BX's with hills.

 

[Berniep]

I don't know which end the oil pickup is on. Bit I wouldn't worry about strain on the loader. Doesn't seem like 1 inch or
1foot would make big difference. On my 23 if I pick up the front end when digging it creeps back down fairly quickly until the front tires touch. Like in about 10 or 15 minutes.

 

[MarkV]

I always try to dig from the down hill side whenever possible. On the up hill side the hoe plus gravity wants to move the tractor too easily and I would think it would be even worst with a lighter tractor like the BX. Sounds like a pretty good slope you plan to work. Might even consider running a chain from the tractor to something like a truck hitch to keep you on top of the hill.

MarkV

 

[LBrown59]

Have you had your tires loaded yet ? i feel its a must for those who have BX's with hills.

//// My bx tractors must not know this = they perform great with unloaded tires.

 

[RayCo]

My bx tractors must not know this = they perform great with unloaded tires.

If you've never used a BX with loaded tires, you don't really have a reference point to which to compare the unloaded performance. Since my tires aren't loaded, I can't comment on how it performs with them unloaded in comparison to having them loaded. I just know that there are times that I'd like a full-size excavator.

 

[peterc38]

If you've never used a BX with loaded tires, you don't really have a reference point to which to compare the unloaded performance. Since my tires aren't loaded, I can't comment on how it performs with them unloaded in comparison to having them loaded. I just know that there are times that I'd like a full-size excavator.

Maybe his posterier provides sufficient ballast

 

[ultrarunner]

I never planned on loading my BX23 rear tires... it's just that I was always getting flats which meant I'd have to stop to repair the flat... kind of reeks havoc with the schedule.

Anyway, I had the rears foamed filled which added 144 lbs to each tire... I couldn't be more pleased... no more flats, lowed my center of gravity and improved my backhoe digging.

 

[Hoosier_Daddy]

how do they load the rears with foam? 144 lb's per tire? cost alot?

 

[ultrarunner]

how do they load the rears with foam? 144 lb's per tire? cost alot?

I delivered my two rear tires to a Farm and Commercial Tire shop. Both of my tires had previous unsuccessful repairs and would go flat overnight.

Anyway, they remove the valve core and drill a small vent hole in the tread 180 degrees from the valve stem.

They pump in expanding foam until it comes out of the vent hole that was just drilled. I had requested medium density fill...

Note, filled tires are not recommended for mowing because of the extra weight

After filling, they brand the tire with a hot iron with a label that says foamed filled, not for high speed use.

The tires need 24 hours to cure without a load, otherwise there will be a permanent flat spot if not allowed to cure.

I learned about foam filling here on TBN

The total cost was $375 for both... not cheap, but no more flats.

The tire shop also re-grooves and recaps on site. They told me to bring the tires back when they are worn out and they will recap at half the cost of new...

 

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Thank you for your reply... And, thanks for the note about lawn load.. I better not do this on this tractor.. Have a safe Holiday for you and family......Tom

 

[LBrown59]

The tire shop also re-grooves and recaps on site.
*They told me to bring the tires back when they are worn out and they will recap at half the cost of new...

But: Why would you ever need to recap a foam filled tire???
After all it's never going to blow out or go flat!!!!!

 

[ultrarunner]

But: Why would you ever need to recap a foam filled tire???
After all it's never going to blow out or go flat!!!!!

I was surprised when I was told about recap as an option.

Sandy, from Gannon tire, showed me some Deere tires they had just recapped and some others waiting to be capped... all were already foamed filled and looked to be from large AG tractors... 100+ hp?

The tires waiting had the lugs just about worn smooth with little to no lugs showing.

The recapped tires had new, maybe 4" deep lugs on old beat-up casings.

 

[NuBota]

Ray,

Sounds like you and I have similar property - I have 3+ ac all 15 -30 degree slopes - TiltMeter is pegged to the limit so much I wonder if it's even useful half the time.

Anyway I do exactly like you - and being a noob, never thought about the oil pump. Sorry I can't help you with that answer.

As far as the FEL, even if it can help reduce the angle, it seems like it would be more precarious - esp if you get the front of the tractor moving around. When I stump on a hill like you mentioned, I will sometime put fill dirt on the down hill side if I can get it there with the FEL to help reduce the angle. But in your case, not sure this helps.

Are you near the base of the slope where you are hoe'ing? Maybe where you can dig a more gradual "ramp" to the dig site?

All that said - I guess I'm no help there either - will have to think about this one some more....

-Eric

 

[RayCo]

As far as the FEL, even if it can help reduce the angle, it seems like it would be more precarious - esp if you get the front of the tractor moving around. When I stump on a hill like you mentioned, I will sometime put fill dirt on the down hill side if I can get it there with the FEL to help reduce the angle. But in your case, not sure this helps.

Hey, thanks Eric. The fill dirt down the side is a good idea! It makes sense that if I'm digging up all this dirt, why not make myself a leveler area?

I've done a bunch of digging on one in hill in question this past week. I tried different things with the loader, and to my surprise, it felt completely stable having the front of the tractor fairly high off the ground helping to level everything out.

 

[fishman002]

My backhoe training manual suggests that you 1st make a cut in the hillside with the FEL parrallel to the ridge then park one side of the backhoe tires (left or right side) in the trench you cut. This will level the TLB so you can excavate futher. You should NEVER take a TLB on a slope greater than 20%. The CG (center of gravity) is compromised when the FEL or hoe is lifted or swung with a load in it and the tractor could be upset. Alway wear your seat belt because the ROPS will be useless without it.