Hobart iron man 210

[Hooked_on_HP]

I was at one of my local stores today and and they have a hobart 210 ironman 210 for 999.00. When I was looking over the display model I noticed the on off switch was broke. I had a sales person get the manager.The manager told me to make a reasonable offer. I told him I would get back to him tommorow. He put it in the back room. Now the question is where can I find a switch. Hobarts site doesn't list any parts. I didn't have any luck on Google either. If I took it apart I am pretty sure I could come up with a switch that would work. What do you guys think it is worth. Remember he said reasonable offer.
Bill

 

[Shield Arc]

Your local AirGas should be able to get the switch for you. My AirGas has never let me down on getting parts for my 1980s Linde Mig machine.

Far as how much it's worth I don't have a clue, but I've read good reports on the Iron man 210!

 

[MontanaMEL]

This is a "good" choice for "weekend welding use"...it is one of the models I poured over before buing a miller online... IT IS MADE BY MILLER...some of the inner, moving, parts are plastic and therefore subject to wear/slippage, etc....before those made of metal... Look at the duty cycle factors...look at the amp rating vs what you are going to be doing with it AND notice that it ONLY runs on 220v AC 1-PH power... You can get that power from "most" industrial gensets of 5.5kw or higher output...making your welding "mobil" to some degree, eh?... Parts are available all over the place...since they come from Miller...one of the 2 BIG names in this Mfg area.. I opt'ed for the "duel voltage" capability, in the same amp rated unit, with a slightly lower duty cycle...The Ironman 210's were orginally selling for $1,200 to $1,550 according to where...they may have been discontinued to be replaced by a newer model/higher base price/unit, etc... marketing dept jazz and all that... IT SHOULD DO 3/8" all day, with say 30% cycle for cooling...you could do 1/2" in some direction/polarity with some deep beveling, again watching your cycle factor.. That switch is most likely about $20 or so...

IF you need such a HD machine for that thickness of material...I'd try $800 just to see if he'll bite and give you a great deal...open it up and see just what is actully broke...you may be able to use some super glue and some plastic, eh?...IF just the "knob" is busted off, and it's not "driven back into the switch body due to impact"...But, do remember, this is a 220v AC machine..and switch...it will have a loaded "spring" feel to it..

Good luck and enjoy,
God Bless,
Mel

 

[moored4]

I would make an offer of $600. He is going to have to box it up and then ship it back, ect,ect You can alway come up a little but I think you can get it far less than he's asking

 

[MontanaMEL]

Roger the "low offer" first....then rise...

But, I don't see this needing to be "shipped back"...
A switch, is a switch, is a switch...eh?
It will have some form of "hold down" or "hold in place" screws/bolts...from the front or rear panel into that switch or some ears on it... unscrew, tag the leads, disconnect..R&R..

On mine, the #212 MVP from Miller, the main power switch is a "small" rocker type on the rear...since this is also rated for 220v AC, I am sure that this small switch "pulls in" another via solenode or similar, low voltage energized, device.

But, I seem to remember on these Ironman 210's that they had a rather large toggle there on the front..(?)... kind of like a "king sized" home light switch design... That is what I am guessing is broke off here, that large, black, plastic, toggle "end". Hope that it's NOT pushed "back into the switch body"... BUT, in any case...this "switch" can't cost that much and the R&R should fall well within the abilities of anyone that can weld.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!..hi,hi.

 

[MontanaMEL]

FORGOT TO MENTION... SAFETY FIRST!!! ALWAYS!!!

Don't plug this thing into your power outlet UNTIL you have done this repair, or at LEAST an inspection...with the thought being: IF YOU ARE NOT SURE...DON'T!!!

ASK A FRIEND IF YOU DON'T KNOW...

Yes, I have a "healthy respect" for 220v AC...and, I'm still alive!...my choice of when to say NO...I don't know enough...I need some expert advice.. This machine weighs around 100 lbs or so...it has it's own wheels on the bottom and stands about 30" high or so..+/-... Just hauling it down to your local "air/gas" on the way home from the store may be your safe bet...(look for "gases", then "welding gases" in your yellow pages..or, look for your closest "HOBART" dealer WITH gases offered too...ask the "old guy" in that store what he thinks...chances are he will KNOW his stuff and be very willing to explain/discuss this with you... Don't be afraid to ask!..

Most of these places "get" around $45 to $65 basic charge for a "check out" and report...with any needed parts "extra"...and, it'll be "gone" for 1 to 2 weeks, according to your area/city, etc..

Good luck and STAY SAFE!

 

[yomax4]

Plug it in at the store if you can..If not don't worry about it. that switch is not made by Miller or Hobart. You would be shocked at what is "not" made by Miller or Hobart inside those machines. Also, I think the 210 is is really a 150 amp. Check the output. if you can live with that, Offer $600 and they will take $700. The switch can be obtained at any electrical house. It will have all the info you need on it.

 

[Jim in ICT]

The switch may not be manfactured by Miller, but you can they'll have it available. They're very good at supporting the sold units in the field.

 

[2manyrocks]

If it is a new machine, Hobart might just replace the switch under warranty. I had a switch to break on my 187 during the warranty period, and they sent me a new one without any problem.

 

[BigSteve63]

Miller part number 124 511. Switch, tgl, DPST 40A 600VAC scr

The Hobart is the same welder as the older Millermatic 185 and its newer updates. Same gun, spool gun, consumables, etc.

switch shows $18.99 at weldingsupply