hitch questions

[Mallard1]

I placed a tentative order on a new 14k 24' (21' flat, 3' dove) with rear fold up ramps today. I got the equipment style with drive over ramps and the full 102" deck. this should weigh in around 3,500 lbs give or take. I think my f-150 is rated around 10,500 so I should have around 7,000 to haul with. I have added the add-a-leaf to the rear springs and also put on E rated tires and run them at 65psi (I know this doesn't change the truck GCVWR but it does change how it handles the load).

now to my question, should I get the weigh safe hitch to monitor tongue weight? I've never used longer than a 20' trailer and always just put the bucket to the front and strapped it down and never had an issue.

Also, on all of the campers you see they are set up with weight distribution hitches, why aren't equipment/ utility trailers, they are just as heavy if not heavier?

I went with the 14k trailer because in 4 years when its time for a new truck I will be going back to a 3/4 ton truck. I didn't realize how big a difference it is between the two.

 

[4570Man]

I wouldn’t bother with the scale hitch. Load it until it’s squatted pretty good and call good. You’ll almost certainly need a weight distribution hitch to accomplish the tow rating. But honestly I feel that upwards of 10,000 is to much for a half ton regardless of what it’s rated. My dad has a 16” foot covered trailer and a 2016 half ton. It pulls like crap. I’d 10-1 rather tow it with my 2500. The half ton pulls my equipment trailer better than the covered trailer but 3,000 pounds on my 3,000 pound weight trailer ( 14,000 pound trailer ) is a good load for the half ton. There’s no way I’d take it to 10-12,000. I don’t even like towing that on my 2500 but more because I have little faith in the transmission. If I need to move my M59 it goes behind my heavier truck.

 

[dodge man]

What is the payload of your F150? That is usually the limiting factor on a F150. It will be on the door jamb sticker. They usually are between 1300 lbs and 2000 lbs. For example say your payload is 1500 pounds. You and all the stuff in your truck weighs 400 pounds, this leaves 1100 pounds of tongue weight for your trailer. If you are towing 10000 pounds at 10% tongue weight that is 1000 pounds of hitch weight, good to go. On the other hand if you are at 15% tongue weight, you are at 1500 pounds of hitch weight and overloaded.

Ford also says anything over 500 pounds hitch weight and 5000 pounds trailer weight requires a weight distribution hitch, you will be over that number.

If you are looking at Fords towing guide, ads and TV commercials, they are often confusing and higher than your truck actually is to make the numbers optimistic. Your payload includes the base model truck plus all the options, full tank of fuel but no passengers. The ads will say something like 2500 pounds of payload. This is a base model with no options. Your trucks payload sticker reflects the way it left the factory.

The big advantage of a 3/4 ton is the high payload, 1 ton trucks often have around 4000 pounds of payload.

 

[JJZ 109]

I've had a WeighSafe with built in scale for 3 or 4 years. Nice hitch. I used the scale a few times to shuffle my skid steer back & forth to adjust tongue weight but not really that often.
The WeighSafe is now for sale after buying a Shocker. Yesterday was the first run with the Shocker but it was a very good first impression. Trailer pulls smoother for sure. But break out your checkbook! But it sure looks to me to be a solidly built unit. Shocker Air Receiver Hitches - Original | Shocker Hitch(R)
I got it mainly in hopes that it absorbs some of the jolts in I81 in PA and I95 through S. Carolina on my annual vacation. Time will tell.
But as dodge man points out, a 3/4 ton might be better sooner rather than later if you'll be pulling that trailer very often or for any distance. I went from an F 150 to a 250 after getting 8.5 mpg pulling a 7x18 enclosed with 4 motorcycles, tools, luggage, etc. I figured if was going to get F 250 mileage I might as well drive an F 250 and have all the advantages for larger loads.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I have mixed feelings, I have a 2019 Ram 2500 6.4L and a 2019 Ford F150 King Ranch 3.5L with Ford's maximum towing package, but the maximum payload is no available on the King.

The ram is rated 3,100 payload and 14,600 towing, the Ford is rated 1,871 payload and 12,800 towing.

I have an Iron Bull 14K gross equipment trailer and use it for my Kubota that's around 4500 lbs, a New Holland C232 track skid steer around 10K lbs and renting a mini excavator that's around 9,600 lbs.

The Ford has very noticably more pulling power, the engine and gearing are unbelievable.

The spring rates are soft since the King is designed to ride better than a Lincoln Town Car... So I do run a Reese weight distribution on it. Otherwise the rear squat is overly exaggerated.

The Ram 2500 spring rates are much firmer, so you can be lazy about the weight distribution, heck I slam a 15,000 lb gross fifth wheel on it and it doesn't squat past level. But power wise, the Ford will always out run it.

As for brake power, I swear the Ford wins. The Ford is a really great truck. But for $74,000 MSRP it should be!

I'm not a weight ****, so I'm positive that at times I'll overload that Ford. But it takes it with a grin and then that Ecoboost bites into the pull and you just can't help but chuckle at how amazing the machine is.

The Ram does feel more high, firm and like a HD truck. And if I'm at home looking at both and know that I'm going to be dragging the New Holland that day, I'll grab the Ram. Obviously the Ford can't support the 2500 lbs of the fifth wheel, that's really what the Ram is for.

But for your equipment trailer, I wouldn't be scared to use that Ford if it's the big Eco with the maximum trailer towing package that has the lower gear ratios and all of the added and larger coolers.

 

[Tinhack]

I've had a WeighSafe with built in scale for 3 or 4 years. Nice hitch. I used the scale a few times to shuffle my skid steer back & forth to adjust tongue weight but not really that often.

It's a handy accessory but once you know the loading location of your typical haul/equipment, you probably won't even look at it any more. Take a look at the hitch specs too. Depending on the receiver hitch you have, they can reduce your load capacity. I've always loaded heavy in front of trailer tires and watched the "squat" of the truck. But I've been doing it a LOT of years.

More important to me is trailer brakes!

I still have nightmares of bringing my auction dozer (JD 420C) home on a 20' equipment trailer. I pulled it with my newly overhauled/restored 1981 C10 pickup. I was, for sure, overloaded and it showed up in braking. I had to allow 4-5x distance to stop. Any harder braking and the tires on the truck locked and the trailer just pushed me along. That was the scariest four hours of my life.

 

[Mallard1]

Thanks for the advice, the door sticker for payload is just under 2,000 lbs. I do not have max tow but do have the auxiliary trans cooler I believe. I think it was part of the fx4 package. I would have to pull the sticker to see the gears I have but I do have the 5.0 motor.

90 percent of the time I haul a trailer it is within 30 miles, with a speed limit of 60. The total elevation change I drive on is not over 30 ft so hills are a non issue. None of this changes the ratings of the truck but it does change how they handle.

Not long after I bought my truck I hauled my FIL NH with box blade that was probably 10k including the 20 trailer, I almost immediately regretted buying A 1/2 ton, it was very squishy and not what I was used to coming from a 3/4 ton with air bags. Now with the extra leaf spring and stiffer tires it pulls just fine up to 70mph.

Like others have said I typically just eyeball the sag to make sure I have enough tongue weight. And have never had an issue with fishtailing.

I致e always borrowed a trailer for anything that exceeded my 16 7k trailer, so I never had the option for a WD hitch. Now that I知 buying I was looking for opinions on adding one on this trailer.

 

[dodge man]

I would get a weight distribution hitch just for peace of mind and legal reasons. My F150 is a 2017 supercab 4x4, 3.55 rear gears with a payload of 1940 pounds and I would not want to tow much over 8000 lbs. It sounds like you are towing local though. You might look at Anderson hitches. I do not have one but they look a little easier to use. I think they have less sway control but that is more an issue with a travel trailer that catches a lot of wind.

 

[JJZ 109]

It's a handy accessory but once you know the loading location of your typical haul/equipment, you probably won't even look at it any more. Take a look at the hitch specs too. Depending on the receiver hitch you have, they can reduce your load capacity. I've always loaded heavy in front of trailer tires and watched the "squat" of the truck. But I've been doing it a LOT of years.

More important to me is trailer brakes!

I still have nightmares of bringing my auction dozer (JD 420C) home on a 20' equipment trailer. I pulled it with my newly overhauled/restored 1981 C10 pickup. I was, for sure, overloaded and it showed up in braking. I had to allow 4-5x distance to stop. Any harder braking and the tires on the truck locked and the trailer just pushed me along. That was the scariest four hours of my life.

You are correct. Really don't pay much attention to it these days. Add to that the fact that the truck has a 2 1/2 inch receiver so I had to use a sleeve or other adapter depending on my use.
I've done away with that with my new hitch. Got a 2 1/2 inch version. Plus it's got another 2,000 pounds capacity.

 

[ovrszd]

To hear you guys talk, why would anyone buy a 3/4T truck?