hi-lo range shift fork R&R

[yanmardoug]

YM2000 hi-lo range shift fork is worn. What is involved in replacement and is the wear most likely a symptom of other problem(s)?

 

[clemsonfor]

take pis, but my guess is u will hav e to pull some shafts and gears or something.

 

[winston1]

California has worked his hi/lo shift mechanism over before. I can't find the thread. I'm sure he will be along with it soon. At least I think it was California. :confused3:

 

[California]

Wow. Just sat down to dinner and started reading here - and they're talking about me!

Musta been some otherbody. I recently wrote about fixing the diff lock fork on my 186D by welding some metal back where it wore down - where the rollpin rubs against it to push it into engagement.

And long ago I wrote that I discovered that while roading the YM240 (YM2000) it could fall out of high range if it lurched at high speed and the geartrain went slack. I reinstalled the rubber bungee that the previous owner had added on the shift lever, and it has never fallen out of gear again, in now nearly nine years. This bungee is arranged to work without adjusting it when I shift ranges so I never think about it. Yanmardoug, you might try this if the only problem is occasional falling out of a range.

As for fixing it right - I think you need to split the tractor to slide the rail (rod) out the front face of the transmission. With the big loader on my YM240, and a very rudimentary workshop, I'm not going to split it until something has to be fixed.

 

[yanmardoug]

Thanks for the responses, particularly California. The front edge (ear?) on the fork has worn such that the fork does not push the gear fully forward into the high range position and it will not stay in high range at all without pressure on the shift lever. With the lever in the high range position, the wear on the fork allows the fork to move forward in the groove on the gear in which the fork rides. I can push the gear forward with my hand such that the fork is positioned properly in that groove. The previous owner had installed a semi permanent metal cable to maintain pressure on the lever to hold it in high range. I am concerned that this "fix" does not fully engage the gears (???) and that, as a result, sooner than later I'll have to replace the gears or gears in addition to the fork. I don't know how long the previous owner had used this "fix." I would appreciate any thoughts you might have on this matter.

 

[winston1]

Sorry about that California, had it all mixed up as usual. :confused3: There was a thread not to long ago with pages about the 2000 jumping out of high range. There were good pictures included. I am not as good finding the old threads since TBN changed their format. I do believe you can remove the top transmission cover and then be able to remove the shifter for repairs. Might have to drain some fluid. Take a look at this drawing. Yanmar Tractor Parts: SHIFT_LEVERS Have I been there, done that? NO.

 

[clemsonfor]

Winston i think i remember that one. I think it was someone but i remember it being a shift fork, but the one im thinking is not the H/L shifter fork i dont beleive. I have no idea who it was though?

 

[284 International]

I have repaired a reverse shift fork before, and repaired the internal shift finger for the high/low fork on my machines. I didn't have to take the shift fork out for the high/low repair though. I'm not sure it can be done without splitting the tractor, as mentioned. There is a (poor) photograph of the fork and the shift finger, circled in red, here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/229002-my-yanmar-220d.html#post2630811

It might be the shaft is pinned in a way that would allow you to drive the pin out, then slide the shift fork off the shaft to the front.

I have had the shift finger bend (break) before. If yours has bent a tiny bit, it may be keeping the gear from being moved into its proper position. If the fork is badly worn that's one thing, but I imagine the finger is more likely to have bent than the fork wear out. The shift finger won't come all the way into the transmission housing for removal. I ended up trimming mine with an angle grinder and skinny wheel on the external side, then rigging up a horrifyingly ugly shifter made from a wrench. It works perfectly, however, and will allow me to easily repair the finger if it breaks again. There is a picture of that here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/198765-no-high-range-2.html#post2290733

I hope you are able to figure it out. Let us know what you do in order to fix it. Good luck.

 

[yanmardoug]

I checked this out further visually. The shift fork is obviously worn pretty badly. I don't see anything which retains the rod (shaft? rail?) on which the fork mounts (no pins or clips inside the gearbox to maintain the position of the rod). Neither the Hoye Tractor diagrams nor the pictures which I have found on the net provide any clue as to how this rod is retained. Is there any way to replace the fork without splitting the tractor? Also, are there any diagrams or photos available which are more illustrative of the hi-lo shift fork and its shaft.

 

[winston1]

I believe #36 roll pin retains the shaft. Yanmar Tractor Parts: SHIFT_LEVERS Look at post #47 in this thread. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/230621-popping-out-gear-5.html

 

[yanmardoug]

Thanks all. Winston1, I see the roll pin in the Hoye diagram and it is almost certainly the retainer. However, I do not see that pin in any of the pictures I've seen (I have looked as closely as I can at all of the links provided in this thread and a number of other photos in other threads here and on a few other sites).Nor can I see it in the actual transmission case. As near as I can tell, therefore, that pin must be inside the clutch housing and, if that is the case, there does not appear to be anything to prevent the rod from moving forward further into the clutch housing. Thus, I am not certain that it is necessary to seperate the tractor to replace the shift fork.

 

[clemsonfor]

Be ware the Hoye diagrams are good but somewhat fuzzy and you cant see everything in detail, plus the "we dont have this but have 200,000 items... blah blah" seems like you always get this on a part that you want to know what it is!! Like a roll pin or a spring?

Also i have found the diagrams to be missing things, at least on the diagram of the 3pt valve on my tractor it was missing a piece. this is the same piece that fell out with a ball bearing upon dissasembly so i did not know which way they went. i was wrong three times upon assembly, as the Hoye diagram left this tiny piece out of the diagram i had to go by trial and error.

 

[yanmardoug]

I really don't want to move the focus of this thread from the mechanical/service issues but I will say that though the Hoye diagrams leave a lot to be desired; they are the best I have found on the net. I just bit the bullet and called Hoye. I spoke with Matt who seemed to be quite knowledgeable and was very helpful. He advised that the tractor will have to be split between the clutch housing and the transmission case in order to remove and replace the shift fork. He said that the R&R of the shift fork should simple and straightforward once the tractor is split and that the seperation of the drive train between the clutch housing and the transmission case is accomplished by means of a gear coupling just forward of the transmission case.
There are some other issues with this tractor for which I may need parts (brakes primarily) so I am going to investigate them before I order parts; but it looks like I will be splitting this tractor in the forseeable future. I will post a followup when I get the job done. Meanwhile, I am going to open a couple of new threads related to this tractor.

 

[clemsonfor]

Is this the same tractor that revs uncontrolably? Where did you get this thing?

 

[yanmardoug]

No. These are actually 2 different YM2000s. I own 2 of the YM2000 and 1 YM1500 and most of another 1500 for parts. The 2000 which revs uncontrollably I paid $1000.00 for a little over a year ago and have only had it running for about 30 minutes one time and about 5 minutes a second time a few days later shortly after I bought it. The second time is when it revved. The other 2000 I bought a couple of weeks ago and only paid $2000.00 for it including a 4' rotary mower, a 4' box blade and a 4' disc. It starts and runs good, does not smoke and everything seems to perform well except for the shift fork problem, the brakes do not work, the hyd/trans fluid appears to have some water in it (it's yellow, but the previous owner washed the tractor with a pressure washer so that is probably the source of the water (hope hope) and it was leaking a little fluid from the shifter/filler area (the axle breather vent tube was blocked and I cleared that so, though I have not run it since, I hope that the blocked tube was causing the leak).
I want to get both of the 2000s operating well then sell one of them and the 2 1500s, one of the 2 rotary mowers I now have and 1 of the 2 discs I now have.

 

[DC2012]

Hey folks. Just looking for some advice. My brother and I have just purchased a YM2000 and are having an issue with the HI-LO fork/lever. After removing the transmission shift cover we can see the shift forks are all damaged but replaceable. The HI-LO fork, it is damaged as well-looks as if someone tried to weld the 3/8" bent rod that shifts the fork forward or back at one time but it is now completely gone. We need to get the shaft out to remove and replace the fork. Has anyone had to perform this level of repair? If we unbolt the 4 bolts to separate the trans from the engine frame, will that suffice to pull it apart or are there additional parts/gears/etc that need to be disconnected to do so? Thank you for a great site and a tremendous amount of guidance. Much of the other issues we dealing with are answered i this forum.

Chris and Dave

 

[284 International]

According to my fragments from a sevice manual, you will need to remove the hydraulic lines, steering linkage, electrical wiring, and, if applicable, the front driveline. The manual also says the steps and operating rods for the brakes and clutch. It doesn't mention the throttle linkage.

I haven't split any of my YM240s/2000 yet, but have done a very similar machine in a Ford 1700. It is straightforward if you are careful. I found it well worth the time to remove the steering column to better align the halves of the tractor. A strong helper or two would be really nice, but not mandatory. I was thankful to have a spare floor jack and a couple 2x4s to help wiggle the thing around. I was also stupid, and did it in a rough dirt field.

There might be more than 4 bolts. Check everywhere, especially places it would be difficult to access. I had to pull the fuel tank and dashboard on mine, an unexpected nuisance.

Please, please, please take detailed, step by step pictures of what you do and how you do it, and jot down notes so you can give us a thorough writeup when you are done. A pair of reasonably competent weekend mechanics with a decent set of tools could do the whole thing in a full workday.

It took me almost 7 hours of work time to do a clutch replacement on my tractor, which had a loader on it. A significant amount of that would have been reduced if I had not been alone; another set of eyes or hands would have saved me at least an hour, likely 2.

 

[DC2012]

I am a machinist and equipment operator, my brother is retired army equipment operator/mechanic and machinist. We are not too worried about tackling this job, but experience always dictates to research what others have done and listen to that experience. There is a lot of wisdom in this forum and we greatly accept that. Something we do when working on equipment is take photos as we take items apart/off. Sometimes you have a bad day and may forget where some little nut or bolt went. If you have an "Extra" bolt in the end, it really isn't extra, just forgot where to put it. Kinda figured we would need to take much of the unit apart in order to get to this guide rod in the transmission case. Hopefully we can devise an option from this that will work easier for anyone else that runs into this issue. We will keep up with the project and pass info on as we get into it. we are going to set it up on equipment jacks today and delve into it a little bit to figure out some options. Try to get back to the forum tonight with our efforts. We are pleased with this purchase so far and believe it to be a valuable machine well worth the time and efforts.:thumbsup: