heres my little ole ford 850
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Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Who's 135 in the background?
The Ford looks like a new one! Good job!
The Ford looks like a new one! Good job!
Soundguy
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With that workmaster paint scheme, you are going to make someone think your '33'hp tractor is super strong! Unless they look at the bellhousing to find out you have the 172ci engine.. or see an eggcrate on front!
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Unless you have one of the plug wires disconnected.. or have swapped the engine out of something else.. the 8XX series of ford is NOT 39 eng hp
The 6xx/early 4 cyl 2000 used a 134ci gas engine.. It had about 35 engine hp, 31 belt, and 22 drawbar.
8XX/early 4 cyl 4000 use a 172ci gas engine. It had about 52 engine hp, 45 belt, and 39 drawbar.
The XX0 series were built from 55-57 and sported the same color as previous models.. IE.. red cast.. grey tin.
The XX1 series were built from 58-62 ( model years ).. and the 6X1 were refered to as workmasters.. and were all red like your paintjob. The 8X1 were called powermasters.. and had a grey tin / red cast.. but the center hood section and dash were red.. and had an eggcrate grill cover that was also red.
Diesel engines came out with the 01 series.. and you could get a 144ci for the 601 and a 172ci for the 801.
That was my point about the comment.. you have an 850 painted like a workmaster.. the 850 is quite a bit more powerfull than a workmaster with a 172ci engine vs the 134ci engine a workmaster would have.
soundguy
The 6xx/early 4 cyl 2000 used a 134ci gas engine.. It had about 35 engine hp, 31 belt, and 22 drawbar.
8XX/early 4 cyl 4000 use a 172ci gas engine. It had about 52 engine hp, 45 belt, and 39 drawbar.
The XX0 series were built from 55-57 and sported the same color as previous models.. IE.. red cast.. grey tin.
The XX1 series were built from 58-62 ( model years ).. and the 6X1 were refered to as workmasters.. and were all red like your paintjob. The 8X1 were called powermasters.. and had a grey tin / red cast.. but the center hood section and dash were red.. and had an eggcrate grill cover that was also red.
Diesel engines came out with the 01 series.. and you could get a 144ci for the 601 and a 172ci for the 801.
That was my point about the comment.. you have an 850 painted like a workmaster.. the 850 is quite a bit more powerfull than a workmaster with a 172ci engine vs the 134ci engine a workmaster would have.
soundguy
It was painted by my sons auto class they painted the top tin silver and I said it looks good if it were a low rider 
so they painted it red all over, the wheel fenders were painted by me with primer this summer it will be painted the 850 scheme Do you know what the name of grey paint or the paint #, it has the 172 the man I bought it from told me the hp was from 39 to 45 I took his word for it , it is a powerful little sucker the brakes are a little weak but this summer they will be replaced (my brotherinlaw )
so they painted it red all over, the wheel fenders were painted by me with primer this summer it will be painted the 850 scheme Do you know what the name of grey paint or the paint #, it has the 172 the man I bought it from told me the hp was from 39 to 45 I took his word for it , it is a powerful little sucker the brakes are a little weak but this summer they will be replaced (my brotherinlaw )
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Brakes might only need adjustment.. they are standard drum brakes and there is a star adjuster on each drum that you can go at with a big flat blade screwdriver after you jack the rear end up.. just turn the tire forward as you click the star wheel.. when she starts to drag, click her back a lil.. make sure they don't lock spinning backwards too.
Once adjusted. use the brake clevis rod to get the pedals the same height.
As for paint number.. depends on the paint... I like valspar / BPS paint.. in which case it is ford white.
the 172ci engine is about 50hp at the engine.. I've seen claims of 52 to 54.. not sure where it is.. but 50 is a safe number.. with pto being int he mid high 40's.. like 45-48.. etc.
He must have been thinking he had a 6xx series with the smaller engine if he thought he had engine hp in the 30's range..
soundguy
Once adjusted. use the brake clevis rod to get the pedals the same height.
As for paint number.. depends on the paint... I like valspar / BPS paint.. in which case it is ford white.
the 172ci engine is about 50hp at the engine.. I've seen claims of 52 to 54.. not sure where it is.. but 50 is a safe number.. with pto being int he mid high 40's.. like 45-48.. etc.
He must have been thinking he had a 6xx series with the smaller engine if he thought he had engine hp in the 30's range..
soundguy
ampsucker
Platinum Member
yes, nice job on the 850.
i'll resurrect this not-so-old thread with a little hijack:
my 850 started popping through the exhaust recently. it used to only do it when you shut it off when it was hot. this last weekend it started doing it when hot and while still running (blading the lane). it's also running a little rough.
i'm assuming the carb is letting too much gas through. i was thinking of putting in a carb kit next time i have a chance.
anybody have any thoughts or advice on this?
i've also read that you should shut off the gas tank valve and let the bowl and carb run out of gas before shutting it off on this model as standard practice. i started doing this and that is about when it started having the exhaust popping problems. i only run it every couple of months so i'm wondering if maybe the rubber in the carb seals isn't drying out or something. it's gravity feed so i don't think there are any fuel pump diaphagms or anything like that.
i have the manual. just thought i'd throw it out there for some of you experts to see if any advice floats back...
amp
i'll resurrect this not-so-old thread with a little hijack:
my 850 started popping through the exhaust recently. it used to only do it when you shut it off when it was hot. this last weekend it started doing it when hot and while still running (blading the lane). it's also running a little rough.
i'm assuming the carb is letting too much gas through. i was thinking of putting in a carb kit next time i have a chance.
anybody have any thoughts or advice on this?
i've also read that you should shut off the gas tank valve and let the bowl and carb run out of gas before shutting it off on this model as standard practice. i started doing this and that is about when it started having the exhaust popping problems. i only run it every couple of months so i'm wondering if maybe the rubber in the carb seals isn't drying out or something. it's gravity feed so i don't think there are any fuel pump diaphagms or anything like that.
i have the manual. just thought i'd throw it out there for some of you experts to see if any advice floats back...
amp
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Not much 'rubber' inside the carb... if it's oem it has a brass float needle.. if it has the new stle needle it will be viton.
IMHO.. turn her of, and then shut the fuel valve off.. that saves you from having to refill the carb bowl to start her next time.
Pinging? sounds LEAN to me.. not rich... might try enriching the mix by 1/8 a turn as long as she doesn't puff black sooty smoke, and as long as she doesn't stumbe / flood out on a fast acceleration, like goosing the hand throttle.
might also be a lil crud inthe carb starving her.
wrong heat range of plugs can also cause 'run-on'.
I like champion H12 ( 512 ).. OR AUTOLITE 437
this is 1 heat range higher than oem h10 / al 216
timing extremly advanced or retarded?
using old fuel.. or some real low octane stuff from south of the border?
soundguy
IMHO.. turn her of, and then shut the fuel valve off.. that saves you from having to refill the carb bowl to start her next time.
Pinging? sounds LEAN to me.. not rich... might try enriching the mix by 1/8 a turn as long as she doesn't puff black sooty smoke, and as long as she doesn't stumbe / flood out on a fast acceleration, like goosing the hand throttle.
might also be a lil crud inthe carb starving her.
wrong heat range of plugs can also cause 'run-on'.
I like champion H12 ( 512 ).. OR AUTOLITE 437
this is 1 heat range higher than oem h10 / al 216
timing extremly advanced or retarded?
using old fuel.. or some real low octane stuff from south of the border?
soundguy
ampsucker
Platinum Member
thanks for the response.
i'll dig into and let you know what i find.
as for bad gas, it's the same gas i use in the lawn mower and for mixing up the small engine fuel. 87 octane from the local station. it usually is 6 months or less. i buy about 12 gallons at a time and use it up before buying more.
i haven't changed the plugs recently (last couple of years) but the exhaust popping just started in the last 6 months or so. no pinging and i haven't changed the timing although i did have problems with the governor advance sticking a few years ago. had to lube it up real good to get the power back.
not puffing black smoke.
next time i have some time to spend with the machine, i'll get out the book and make sure it's adjusted right, clean the fuel bowl, etc.
thanks! it's good to know someone with experience on this nice old tractors!
amp
i'll dig into and let you know what i find.
as for bad gas, it's the same gas i use in the lawn mower and for mixing up the small engine fuel. 87 octane from the local station. it usually is 6 months or less. i buy about 12 gallons at a time and use it up before buying more.
i haven't changed the plugs recently (last couple of years) but the exhaust popping just started in the last 6 months or so. no pinging and i haven't changed the timing although i did have problems with the governor advance sticking a few years ago. had to lube it up real good to get the power back.
not puffing black smoke.
next time i have some time to spend with the machine, i'll get out the book and make sure it's adjusted right, clean the fuel bowl, etc.
thanks! it's good to know someone with experience on this nice old tractors!
amp