Herbicide To Kill Residual Wild Grape Vines

[jeff9366]

I have been pulling 1" - 5" diameter wild Vitus Rotundfolia (Scuppernong) grape vines out of Oak, Hickory, Persimmon and other valued trees in a north Florida residential common area for a year.

That part of the job is done. Above ground vines have been transported to the community burn pile and incinerated.

Vine shoot are sprouting from residual stems/roots underground.

What should I use to kill this new vine growth completely? Roundup? 2,4-D? A specialty brand of herbicide?

{I have TSC and Ace Hardware close by; Southern States Co-op further away.}

Which season is the most effective time to apply herbicide to wild grape vegetation?

 

[oosik]

I would start right now by spraying the new growth with Roundup. Supposedly spring is the best time. See if you can find the long acting stuff (lasts one year).

 

[BeezFun]

If the cutoff part of the vine stem is still visible, I apply Triox to the cut stem with an eyedropper. It's nasty stuff, so I only use it for point applications. But if you do that it will kill the entire root system that's connected to that stem. If you ripped the vines out and can't access the cutoff stems, I guess you have to use something like roundup.

 

[jeff9366]

After researching Ortho Triox on the web it is documented effective but others have reported product migration and unintentional death of trees. I realize unintentional tree death may be do to lack of care in mixing or application.

Have you had any negative experience or is the eyedropper application the answer? Did you eyedropper Triox diluted per label? Did you apply to length of stem or to the cut "end"?

I raked out tons of stems. Many stems remain, partially on the surface, many tangled together.

Ortho Triox Product Description:
Direct from Ortho a non-selective herbicide that kills and prevents weeds, unwanted plants and grasses for up to 1 full year! Specially formulated for residential use, this is the perfect solution to unwanted growth in driveways, sidewalks and gravel paths. Use it to edge fences, curbs and patios as well. Add one quart to one gallon of water to treat 75 square feet. Always apply with a sprinkling can.

How To Use Tips
Don't create new problems while solving your own! This is a soil sterilant for up to 1 year, so nothing grows where you apply it. Watch out for your neighbor's plants as well as yours when using Ground Clear. If you apply along your side of the fence and your neighbor has trees or shrubs growing just on the other side, you may injure or kill them. Coordination before application is the best approach. This product may move some distance in the soil, so assess your landscape before using Ground Clear on a slope. If there are desirable plants in the area, consider using a post emergent herbicide like RoundUp instead. In that case, a less "permanent" solution could save you money in the long run!

Product Specifications
Active ingredients:
Glyphosate 5.0%
Imazapyr 0.08%
Other ingredients: 94.92%

 

[super55]

Tordon RTU (they sell it at Tractor Supply) works really good for brush and viney plants such as the ones you listed. It is one of the only herbicides out there that is specifically designed for trees and brushy plants with deep root systems.

Paramital is another herbicide that would work but you have to be very careful using it so you don't get run-off. It essentially sterilizes the soil for about a year before anything will grow on it and has a lot of restrictions on use near water.

Round-up (glyphosate 41%) will knock the plants back but you will have to stay on top if with multiple applications. Usually with deep rooted plants roundup will set the plant back and in about 5-6 weeks you'll see sprouts again. After about 3 follow up applications you usually can plan on the plant being killed.

 

[jeff9366]

Thank you for the TORDON suggestion. I am learning.



Tordon® RTU is a selective herbicide that effectively kills cut stumps. Ready-To-Use ("RTU") formula. No mixing or measuring required, just pour Tordon RTU into the convenient squirt bottle applicator, and start applying.

Features:

Ready to Use
Controls more than 20 woody species (see below).
Moves to root system to stop resprouting.
Blue dye to easily spot treated stumps.
No-freeze formulation.
For use year-round.
Woody plants controlled: ailanthus, alder, aspen, birch, cedar, cherry, dogwood, elm, firs, green ash, gum, hawthorn, hickory, hornbeam, maples, oaks, pecan, persimmon, serviceberry, sourwood and sweetbay.

Application Information:

Follow all label instructions, guidelines, and warnings.
Wear protective clothing and gear when handling.
For use in non-crop areas.
Maximum application rates: Forest site and woody plants - 4 gallons per acre per application no more than once per year. Annual and perennial weeds - 2 gallons per acre per application, no more than 2 times per year.
Restrictions:

Do Not apply: on commercial or residential lawns, near ornamental shrubs and trees.
Do not rotate crops on treated land unless registed for use with picloram until soil is tested and shown to be picloram free.
Do Not contaminate water intended for domestic purposes or irrigation.
Do not apply in a method resulting in contact with persons directly or indirectly.
See label for spray drift management and other restrictions.
Ingredient Information:

Picloram: (4-amino-3,5,6-trichloropicolinic acid), triisopropanolamine salt (5.4%)
2, 4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid, trrsopropanolamine salt (20.9%)
Ethylene glycol, Isopropanol, Triisopropanolamine, and Proprietary surfactant (73.7%)
Not for sale, use or distribution New York and California

 

[murphy1244]

We use Pathfinder 2 here, cut then spray. Premixed

 

[Complete Turf Care]

DON'T use TORDON anywhere near your desirable trees. And don't use Pramitol either. Don't use any product that will have long term residual activity anywhere near your good trees.

Any of these type products will last in your soil for a long time and will have the potential to migrate in the soil to your good trees.

There are some 'brush killer' herbicides available that are 'contact' killers. Roundup (glyphosate) and 2,4-D are 'contact' herbicides and have NO residual activity, which means they do not persist in the soil, and do not prevent anything from growing up from the soil. Roundup is 100% neutralized the instant it hits SOIL. This is a good characteristic for some situations.

Also, Roundup and 2,4-D are 'systemic' herbicides. This means that they are absorbed by the green tissue of a plant and are translocated through the plant. Which is what you want in this situation.

Look at something like Bayer Brush Killer. Brush Killer Plus | Bayer Advanced

I have been a licensed commercial applicator for over 30 years.

 

[jeff9366]

We use Pathfinder 2 here, cut then spray. Premixed

Basal bark is certainly what is covering the exposed stems.

Basal bark herbicide application - Woody plants can be killed without cutting the tree down by applying oil soluble herbicides to the bark. This is only recommended for trees or shrubs with stem diameters of six inches or less. This method is faster than cutting vegetation down and treating the stumps. It is useful for homeowners with larger numbers of woody plants to kill where it is accept- able to leave dying and dead vegetation standing. An oil soluble herbicide must be used for basal bark applications to facilitate movement of the herbicide through waxy substances in the bark. Garlon 4 must be diluted in a penetrating oil that can be recom- mended where the herbicide is purchased. Pathfinder II is pre-diluted in oil and ready to use.


THANKS, MURPH--------

 

[BeezFun]

Have you had any negative experience or is the eyedropper application the answer? Did you eyedropper Triox diluted per label? Did you apply to length of stem or to the cut "end"?

I only apply with eyedropper to cut ends, and I use it right out of the can. I don't like spraying anything on a general area if I can avoid it. All this stuff finds it's way into the soil and has long term effects, roundup is now showing up in drinking water. I found some stuff based on hot peppers that I used last year in place of roundup, along an electric fenceline. It actually worked better in my case because we have so much beans and corn growing wild out there that's roundup resistant, that the beans and corn have become the weeds and roundup won't work on them. Not sure how it would work on the stuff you have.