Help with Electrical Problem

[beauford chapman]

Have had ck30 for 2.8 years. At about 2.4 years, I would get a click when the switch was turned to the start posistion but no ignition. Checked everything.Problem was intermittent but gradually became more frequent until it totally would not start. Just clicked. Changed ignition switch at about 2.6 years. After about 1 month, I began to get same clicking when switch was turned to start posistion. I would jiggle key and it would finally start. Now back to same clicking when turned to start posistion. Checked battery, grounding, relay connections. All other electrical features work fine. Can someone give me possible culprit?

 

[Soundguy]

use jumper wires to jump out switch and test. if jumping it out works.. you know you have a switch problem..

soundguy

 

[Gittyup]

Could be a weak relay. If you replace it, put a capacitor rated for 40 volts or so across the actuation terminals. This will help it last longer and actuate more reliably. Cap helps prevent carbon build up on contacts.

 

[Soundguy]

i don't know all the particulers.. but if replacing the ignition switch made the problem go away.. then i doubt it's a relay.... as that would not have been replaced.

more info would be helpfull though..

soundguy

 

[MotorSeven]

Have you actually cleaned the battery posts and the ground to frame? My CK30 and Dk40 both had the same symptom, both times it was dirty terminals.

 

[mrutkaus]

I go with above battery/frame connections check. They can look perfect but if not cleaned a thin layer around/inside the connectors/terminals can cause these problems. Take all off, clean with wire brush or steel wool, spray some battery termainal stuff or a little white grease on and put back together.

Mike

 

[malk315]

If you have buildup of crud on the positive terminal I've found mixing warm water and baking soda will neutralize all of the acidic crud (you get a nice chemical reaction) and then you can safely clean everything w/o acidy stuff eating your hands, clothes, gloves whatever. Keep the solution from going into the battery vents -- usually dipping the whole terminal into a container away from the battery works great.

Also make sure the crud didn't find it's way back into the postive wire strands. Just pull back insulation if you can check. If so either a new wire is a good idea or cut back til clean copper and attach a new terminal you can get at Napa auto parts (assuming wire is long enough).

Just throwing out ideas that worked wonders on my 1970 wheel horse that needed this every few years. My kioti has had no issues like this at the battery posts -- it's been stored in less harsh conditions though too.

 

[VictorW]

A while back a member posted electrical problems and found the wire harness connectors under the right floorboard/footrest had become corroded. They caused him some problems similar to what a bad ignition switch does. Take them apart, clean if necessary, and coat with dilectric grease before reconnecting. Just a thought for another place to check.

 

[malk315]

One of the "harness under panel below dash" corrosion issues was me. For me it was only the flashers that were intermittent due to corrosion in the plugs under that panel that allow the tractor to be split. It's tough to clean the "socket" side of those plugs but the "pin" side can be cleaned w/ emery board or sand paper but be careful as the pins are easy to break off. Perhaps spray some brake/electric motor cleaner in the socket side if you see corrosion -- it's easily obvious if arcing / corrosion has been going on versus a clean plug. I only had one that had a couple of pins with some blue/white gunk buildup.

I cleaned the best I could and di-electric greased the one that had corrosion but eventually replaced the harnesses involved beacuse after a while the flashers became intermittant again. After replacing the harnesses I've had zero problems. During the recent service I had done the dealer coated all of those connectors with dielectric grease as a preventative measure. Electrically my machine has been great.

One last thing -- mine being an '06 vintage I think those plugs under the panel should be oriented so water can't find it's way in (one side may have an opening). This is where the dielectric grease is nice insurance.

Good luck.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I recommend diagnosis using a cheap voltmeter (multimeter) with long leads and alligator clips at the ends. You can waste a lot of time and $$ throwing parts at these kind of things so I think it pays to locate the real problem. If the starter's not turning, check the voltage between the frame and the big terminal on the starter while the key is in the crank position. Assuming it's low (like near zero), back up to the next accessible check point until you locate the problem.

The click you hear may be the glow relay or it may be the started trying to engage. These ignition switches are often the problem but in your case replacing the switch previously may have actually fixed something else temporarily (like jiggling a poor connection). So it's probably worth the effort to find the real problem.

Supplemental: Harbor Freight usually has bargains on multimeters but you may need to make the long leads so you can connect and watch the meter from the seat. Alternatively, you can get a helper to turn the key while you watch the meter from the ground.

Scott