help with 1920 hydraulics

   / help with 1920 hydraulics #1  

Robert_in_NY

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Silver Creek, NY
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Case-IH Farmall 45A, Kubota M8540 Narrow, New Holland TN 65, Bobcat 331, Ford 1920, 1952 John Deere M, Allis Chalmers B, Bombardier Traxter XT, Massey Harris 81RC and a John Deere 3300 combine, Cub Cadet GT1554
I changed the hydraulic fluid on the 1920 and forgot to fill the filter (don't know if it makes much difference or not). Anyway, the loader is very jerky and has trouble going up and curling the bucket as well. The oil is foamy so I know there is air in there. I cracked the lines while the tractor was running and it bleeds out a lot of air but I am not making any progress. I have been at this for a couple days letting the air work its way out of the oil between attempts. So far all I have accomplished is to get annoyed. I changed the oil in the TN and did not have any problems and I don't know why this one is acting the way she is. But I will admit, I know squat about hydraulics so if anyone can help the please do as I will appreciate it. Thanks.
 
   / help with 1920 hydraulics #2  
Robert,
Did the seal on the old filter stick to the housing? If it did and you now have two sandwiched between the filter and the housing, that could be where the air is coming from.
 
   / help with 1920 hydraulics #3  
Robert, do you have a remote adapter on the 1920. If so, you could attach a QA hose to one side and then pump fluid out into a container to bleed the system. When you get a gallon or two into the container, then you could pour it back into the reservoir. You could also disconnect a quick connect going to the loader and do this also if you have quick connects on the 1920.

I think Jerry's idea about the filter is possible, but most of the time when the filter gasket doesn't seal, there is a leak around the filter base. If you have no fluid leaks, it just may take awhile for all the air to clear from the system.

That's about the sum of my $0.02 on this one. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / help with 1920 hydraulics #4  
Robert,

I think the dealer said to keep cycling the loader joystick in all directions to get the air out of my 1920.

John
 
   / help with 1920 hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks guys, the gasket came off with the filter so that is not a problem, there are no leaks around it either to indicate any problems there.

I have cycled, cycled and cycled some more but to no avail. The only thing I have not done is to pull the quick disconnect as I did not think they are a viable problem. Air rises so I try to crack the lines at the highest point to get the air out. However, that is not working too well right now so I will give the disconnects a try. I don't have a quick disconnect up front only at the loader bracket. I guess persistance is going to be my best option in this case. I will keep everyone informed. Thanks
 
   / help with 1920 hydraulics #6  
Did they sell you the right filter? Early 1920's use a different filter than the vast majority of 1920's. Not even sure the wrong one will fit on, but it is worth checking. I have changed hyd filters on dozens of 1920's, I never fill the filters, and unless one has a very weak pump, they prime quickly and easily at startup. Yours is sucking air somewhere, and if it worked OK before the filter change, it is a cinch the problem is with the filter or its installation. Pull it off, check the seal, and verify the part number. You are using NH filters, aren't you?
 
   / help with 1920 hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#7  
It is a NH filter. I was thinking about that today as she would start to work fine and then stop. I would crack a line to bleed off air and I would work the hydraulics to speed it up and then the fluid would stop all together. So I thought it might be the pump acting up for some reason but did not have the time to check it out. I will pull the filter and check it over to make sure it is ok. I will also double check the part number and verify it with my dealer. Thanks
 
   / help with 1920 hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Pulled the filter and it still had air in it. I was quite surprised as I have ran the tractor for about an hour working the hydraulics trying to get the air out only to find the filter was still about 1/6 air. Put her back together and she is working better now. There is still some air in the system but it is no where near as bad as it was and I think it will work out in a day or two of use. Thanks to everyone for their advice and thank you Rick for pulling my attention to checking the filter. If I didn't I would most likely be trying to bleed the lines still and making a mess.
 
   / help with 1920 hydraulics #9  
I had the same problem and it drove me crazy. I finally returned the tractor to the dealer and they found a crack in the hydraulic manufold. replaced it and all works fine now!
 
   / help with 1920 hydraulics #10  
Did you drain your rearend as well as your transmission? On my ford 1710 you have to drain both because both transmission an rear end share the same sump.If its foamy you may have had water in one or the other. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

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