Help - MM252 wire hub NOT compatible with Lincoln L56 plastic reel 12-1/2 lb. -

[BukitCase]

Ordered some 8" spools of L56 wire, had one on my MM211 - went to move it over to the 252 when I ran out of wire, but the pin on the mm252's hub is about 3/8" too long to let the 8" plastic spool rest against the inner flange of the hub - there's just enough slop in the wire spool's ID that the spool WOBBLES when rotating.

I've looked thru all the manuals, NO MENTION of a spacer that's needed between inner hub flange and spool - pics of OTHER brands plastic spools show TWO OPTIONS for pin holes, ONE of which would be the correct radius for the MM252.

I thought about drilling out the pin hole in the spool, but it looks like that would drill into the inner layers of wire.

Anyone familiar with this machine know of this, or have any work-arounds? The only thing I can think of (since I already have 3 more of these on the way, and MUCH prefer Lincoln's wire) is to make a SPACER that would hold the spool far enough away from the inner flange, but NOT so far that it doesn't mesh with the TIP of the hub so the tensioner works.

Appreciate any other ideas, but I'd rather NOT have to drill each spool of wire as I use it... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Oh, here's a pic of the spools that do NOT fit - see the little half-round sort of hole at about 10-11 oclock? My pin is about 3/8" LONGER than will fit into that, it's the ONLY place the pin CAN fit, I do NOT wanna mod the welder. A spacer (think "fat washer") is the only thing I've come up with that isn't a PITA ...

 

[dragoneggs]

Hmmm... Sorry no help here. But it was an excuse to wander back out to the shop. I am using the same L56 8in spool on my 211. My only welder but very surprised it doesn't fit your 252! Seems a fabricated spacer should do the trick though. Report back.

 

[BukitCase]

Yeah, never had a prob with EITHER of my mm211's and 8" spools, think I might have a scrap or two of 3/8" aluminum big enough, might be time to try out the (2 yrs old, never been used) rotary table and chuck. Maybe drill a hole in a piece, mount that in a collet on mill, "rube goldberg" a lathe tool (no lathe yet) in the milling vise, "cut away everything that isn't a circle", then chuck THAT in the 3 jaw chuck on the rotary table, center on the original hole, then either fly cut (faster) or boring bar.

At least I can still MIG stuff, just put the 8"'er back on the MM211 -

Options, options, gotta love options ...Steve

 

[Shield Arc]

My Lincoln LN-25s are the same way. I cut 2-inch PVC pipe as spacers.

 

[dragoneggs]

Sheesh... that's no fun, SA! Plastic? Are you getting soft? That is something I would do being in my industry. Ha Ha... Happy New Year!

 

[BukitCase]

Crap, leave it to the "newbie weldor" to ruin my fun (errr, I meant "ease my pain" ) - Seriously tho, thanks Carl; I'd rather "play with the mill" on a day I'm NOT tryin' to do somethin' ELSE; never even THOUGHT about a simple piece of pipe - duh.... :duh:

Now, to see if I got any pipe that size; if so, a quickie on the bandsaw is about a day faster than my first thought... Steve

 

[Shield Arc]

Sometimes us newbie welders come up with a good idea.
Mark, and Steve you guys have a great new year! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[swines]

My ESAB 300i came from ESAB with spacers like ones shown by Shield Arc. They're just pieces of PVC cut by ESAB and included with the machine. Seems like a simple fix to make your own.

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

My Lincoln LN-25s are the same way. I cut 2-inch PVC pipe as spacers.

I've randomly had the same problem, and fixed the same way.

I think I even used the center out of an old spool of wire once too.