Help me with Control Valve question-Please

[dcyrilc]

I asked dad and he said that it is a CP system. So that being said does the valve I linked to earlier make sense?

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...name=hydraulic

That does look correct. You'll want to make sure you put in the plug for Closed Center. How does the twine cylinder work? What does it do? Having trouble picturing how a cylinder works the twine.

 

[dcyrilc]

Interesting discussion that has me real confused. In my case I am starting from scratch, building a small tracked ride on dumper. I am told I need an open centre valve for the drive motors. Looking at pumps, I have not heard information about whether there are open centre system pumps and closed centre system pumps. Now I am wondering if the pump I have will work for my installation. Don't answer here, I will start a new thread.

Dave

Hi Dave,

Give us a link to your thread so we can follow your project.

Thanks

 

[waldersha]

That does look correct. You'll want to make sure you put in the plug for Closed Center. How does the twine cylinder work? What does it do? Having trouble picturing how a cylinder works the twine.

Your twine sits in a "bucket" right in front of the rollers. Twine comes out and goes through a tube that the cylinder attaches to. When you get a full bale, you run the cylinder down which allows the rollers to catch the twine and start wrapping it around the bale. Then you run the cylinder back to the resting position and the twine gets cut off. Most of the older Vermeer balers used a rope and the same tube with a spring to pull it back to the resting position. You pulled the rope down to get it started and then had to allow it to pull back across to get your string on the bale right. Just saves some wear and tear on a bad shoulder mostly.

Thanks for all of your help on this. I'll let you know how everything works out.

 

[dcyrilc]

Your twine sits in a "bucket" right in front of the rollers. Twine comes out and goes through a tube that the cylinder attaches to. When you get a full bale, you run the cylinder down which allows the rollers to catch the twine and start wrapping it around the bale. Then you run the cylinder back to the resting position and the twine gets cut off. Most of the older Vermeer balers used a rope and the same tube with a spring to pull it back to the resting position. You pulled the rope down to get it started and then had to allow it to pull back across to get your string on the bale right. Just saves some wear and tear on a bad shoulder mostly.

Thanks for all of your help on this. I'll let you know how everything works out.

Sounds like a spring to center will work well here also. The valve you found should be good. Keep us posted as the project progresses and we'll try to help with any questions which arrise.

Also, some pictures would be very cool!:thumbsup:

 

[waldersha]

Absolutely. You'll get to see some old equipment in it's work clothes for sure, but would be glad to get some pictures.

Thanks again.

 

[dcyrilc]

Absolutely. You'll get to see some old equipment in it's work clothes for sure, but would be glad to get some pictures.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[mmurphy]

Waldershaw, the biggest problem with the wd 45 is not much of a reservoir. I am not sure of volumes of cylinders you plan on running, but could cause a problem of running low on oil. It has been many years since I have been around a wd 45.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Waldershaw, the biggest problem with the wd 45 is not much of a reservoir. I am not sure of volumes of cylinders you plan on running, but could cause a problem of running low on oil. It has been many years since I have been around a wd 45.

Yes, agree, calculate the volume of the added piston rods (thats the net volume added) and see if their volumes are covered by the reservoir...

 

[waldersha]

Waldershaw, the biggest problem with the wd 45 is not much of a reservoir. I am not sure of volumes of cylinders you plan on running, but could cause a problem of running low on oil. It has been many years since I have been around a wd 45.

Yes, agree, calculate the volume of the added piston rods (thats the net volume added) and see if their volumes are covered by the reservoir...

Good point, you are both right about not much fluid in store. I know it will work with the lift gate which are the larger cylinders because we've done that. The only real add to the system then is for the small cylinder that runs the twine. Not sure off the top of my head how big that one is, but comparatively it is pretty small.

If nothing else, we'll just have to add a reservoir. Should be a fun project.

 

[mmurphy]

One more detail, I could not pull up the valve you had linked. Make sure you can set the pressure relief valve high enough for that pump on the tractor. If it is a compensated pump at say 3400 psi, you need to be a slight higher then that with pressure relief. With only a gallon and a half sytem you will be frying the oil very fast. I think you probably should double check on pump type, pressure from an implement dealer to verify.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Can you take a picture of the pump, and post it??!!

 

[waldersha]

Here is a picture from Google images of a pump. I'm about 25 miles from my folks so probably won't be up there until at least the weekend.

Google Image Result for http://pmimages.worthpoint.com/thumbnails2/1/1008/23/1_8dbbec3fa44ab8884b85ef13392cddb6.jpg

 

[waldersha]

One more detail, I could not pull up the valve you had linked. Make sure you can set the pressure relief valve high enough for that pump on the tractor. If it is a compensated pump at say 3400 psi, you need to be a slight higher then that with pressure relief. With only a gallon and a half sytem you will be frying the oil very fast. I think you probably should double check on pump type, pressure from an implement dealer to verify.

I couldn't get the link to work anymore either, but the Valve is still there. 2 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB21BB5C1 DA VALVE

It has an adjustable pressure relief valve from 2000-3500 psi. I know the pump won't put out the "new" pressure anymore, so it will be less than the 3300-3700 that was stated above.

no offense on the implement dealer comment, but around here if you ask about specs for a 60 year old tractor they look at you like you have 3 heads and flew in on your spaceship. That's why I came to the net. The old timers are about the only ones who know at this point.

 

[mmurphy]

If it is a compensated pump it will keep pumping untill pressure gets there or relief valve starts to open. If at 3400 psi, if that is where it is supposed to fire or change angle of swash plate to like give it a rest.

 

[waldersha]

Quick update. Sorry, no pics yet, but went with the Prince valve, closed center. It works Great! Thanks so much to all who posted advice. I'll get some pictures soon and post them up.