Tractor Sizing Help kubota L2501 vs L3901

   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901 #1  

Lefty422

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Aug 13, 2017
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Clayton,Wa
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Sthil461r
Hello!!! This is my first post here so please forgive me if it isn稚 up to par, I値l try my best. I am going to pull the trigger this year and buy my first tractor leaning real hard on going with kubota since there are two dealers some what close to me. Branson isn稚 out of the picture yet because they are also not to far away. What I have is 20 wooded acres in NE Washington and a mile of private road to keep up with. The property is a mix of hillside and flat land with lots of brush and slash to clean up and lots of firewood to retrieve. A lot of dirt and gravel to move around and other misc tractor loader work, not much pto work at all! The tractors I have looked at are all HST MODELS and are Kubota L2501 and L3901 stoped at Branson and sat on a 3520H as well, but that can be fir another post. With the tractor will come a third function valve and root take style grapple and box blade or land plane. What I would like to know is in the L series kubotas for doing a lot of loader type dirt work is it worth spending the extra cash for the extra HP or would the 2501 Be the way to go? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901 #2  
:welcome: Let me be the first to welcome you. I can't give you any advice here other than studying the specs myself first but wish you good luck in your tractor purchase and keep us posted on your triumphs and tribulations. I will say that if you get much more lift with the 3901 then go for it. My only wish with my BX is more lift.
 
   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks dragoneggs and will do! I知 doing as much homework as I can. Just wanted to throw some questions out there and get other people痴 thoughts and info!
 
   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901 #4  
I have 20 wooded acres in NE Washington and a mile of private road to keep up. The property is a mix of hillside and flat land with brush and slash to clean up and firewood to retrieve. A lot of dirt and gravel to move around and other misc tractor loader work. Not much PTO work.

The tractors I have looked at are all HST MODELS and are Kubota L2501 and L3901 stoped at Branson and sat on a 3520H as well, but that can be for another post. With the tractor will order a third function valve and root take style grapple and box blade or land plane.

Is the standard Kubota L series appropriate for doing heavy loader work with dirt and gravel? Is it worth spending the extra cash for the extra HP of the L3901 or would the L2501 be enough?

The best way to shop for tractors is to determine your tasks first, then determine how much bare tractor weight you need to accomplish as many of your tasks as possible, SAFELY. Hillside work demands more tractor weight than flat land work. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices.
I like to spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

It takes a 50% increase in tractor weight before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider, implements for a heavier tractor is a pain and often a big hit in depreciation. ((Ask me how I know.)) Many who buy too light tractors buy too light implements.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, is a priority for me; less so for others, well experienced in tractors, who do their own maintenance. For most new to tractors a quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is essential. My kubota dealer is six miles away.


In my opinion neither Kubota L2501 nor L3901, both with a bare tractor weight of 2,600 pounds, has enough weight to accomplish your tasks SAFELY. You need a tractor of whatever brand with a bare tractor weight of 3,500 to 4,000 pounds.
In Kubota this would be the utilitarian MX series or the superbly outfitted 'Grand L' series. Same heavy chassis; different kit.

Heavier tractors have greater wheel spread making them more stable. Heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires better able to bridge holes and ruts without the tractor rolling over. Larger wheels and tires provide a much smoother ride over rough ground. Heavier tractors have greater inertia to resist rollovers when moving heavy loads in the FEL, the most hazardous of routine tractor tasks, especially hazardous on sloped land.

For your tasks greater tractor chassis weight is far more important than tractor horsepower. This is difficult for people new to tractors to realize.

Horsepower is more important operating PTO powered implements.

MORE: tractor for hillside site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​
 

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   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901 #5  
I have a mile of private road to keep up.
With the tractor will order a third function valve and root take style grapple and box blade or land plane.

Much of eastern Washington state is pretty dry. With 12" to 20" rainfall and gravel available you will find a LPGS more time efficient for a mile of road maintenance than a Box Blade. Also, LPGS has a shorter learning curve than a Box Blade.

I have 20 wooded acres in NE Washington. The property is a mix of hillside and flat land with lots of brush and slash to clean up, a lot of dirt and gravel to move around and other misc tractor loader work.

Consider a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment early on. Nothing better for woods work and consolidating brush. Good for minor grading. Can 'open' land for a kitchen garden.
See Post #4, Photo #4.

VIDEO: RATCHET RAKE - YouTube


Nothing wrong with a L2501/HST for residential use on two to five acres of flat land. Tasks: mowing small pasture, landscaping with the bucket, with bucket substituting for a wheelbarrow; gathering firewood, maintaining a short driveway.

You foresee mostly ground contact work for which the L2501 is too light and you have hills.
 
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   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901 #6  
The Standard L series tractors are indeed lighter machines, but that doesnt mean one cannot do the tasks you describe effectively and safely.

Regarding what you want to do....IMO......stick with the 2501. The 3901 adds alot of cost and also emissions crap. But still same basic tractor. The L2501 will push, pull, and lift exactly the same as the 3901. The HP dont gain you anything in that regard.

Only thing you will notice is the L2501 may seem a little sluggish going up hills.....meaning you may have to drop down a range on the HST where as the 3901 might not have needed to.
 
   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901 #7  
The Standard L series tractors are indeed lighter machines, but that doesnt mean one cannot do the tasks you describe effectively and safely.

Regarding what you want to do....IMO......stick with the 2501. The 3901 adds alot of cost and also emissions crap. But still same basic tractor. The L2501 will push, pull, and lift exactly the same as the 3901. The HP dont gain you anything in that regard.

Only thing you will notice is the L2501 may seem a little sluggish going up hills.....meaning you may have to drop down a range on the HST where as the 3901 might not have needed to.
That made me look at specs. Only 150 pounds difference? I guess if just mowing you could use the the extra hp but you'd just spin tires on ground engaging tasks.
 
   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901 #8  
That made me look at specs. Only 150 pounds difference? I guess if just mowing you could use the the extra hp but you'd just spin tires on ground engaging tasks.

I am surprised there is even that much weight difference.

Dont know all the in's and out's of the new 2501/3301/3901 models......but the predecessors.....the 2800/3400/3700, and the 3200/3800......were all pretty much identical tractors. Same frame, chassis, tires, transmissions, etc.

I assume the 150# difference is a slightly larger motor and the addition of the emissions stuff. Nothing more.

For all intents and purposes......they are the same tractors.....just 25hp with no emissions......and 39HP + emissions
 
   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901 #9  
Welcome!

First, Just to help us old guys out, paragraphs make long posts easier to read.

Second, I own an L2501 so at the risk of repeating what others have said, here is my take.

In the small L chassis, the L2501is all the HP the chassis can handle when it comes to ground engaging work. Even with the tires filled, the tires will loose traction before you run out of power.

With that said, the higher HP models will do the work a bit faster.

If you plan to use a lot of PTO driven implements then the higher HP will come in handy.

My primary use is mowing, discing and occasionally fixing dirt roads, all on my 683 acre hunting lease. Because it is all woods, and at time can get muddy, I wanted a tractor in the 3500 pound range so it is not too bad to get unstuck.

The L2501 is right at that weight with the loader, plus the price and lack of emissions made it the right tractor for me.

I would suggest you rent a few tractors in different sizes and use them on your property to get a feel for the pro and con of each.

If you are interested in watching my L2501 working, I have a few videos on YouTube.

Kubota L2501 repairing dirt road - YouTube

Kubota L2501 Digging and grading road to camp - YouTube

Kubota L2501 Heavy Brushcutting - YouTube
 
   / Help kubota L2501 vs L3901 #10  
I test drove the L3301 Kubota and ended up with a Branson 3725. It cost less and has more features. The independent PTO is really handy when running a PTO chipper. It's got a tight turning radius. I operate in small spaces and on slopes. My dealer put 10 series wheels and tires on my 3725 for a lower center of gravity and added 2" spacers to the rear. It's very stable on slopes.

Go test drive them and see what you think.
 

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