Help! Iron bacteria!

   / Help! Iron bacteria! #2  
Treatment of Iron and Sulfur Bacteria
There are several different ways of treating iron and sulfur bacteria problems. Some of them are described in the following section, however, the most effective method to use varies from case to case. The Division of Environmental Health or a licensed well contractor can advise you, which method is best for your situation. Consult with them before attempting to treat an iron or sulfur bacteria problem.

Prevention
The best treatment for both iron and sulfur bacteria is prevention.

Unsanitary well drilling can often introduce bacteria into a previously clean water supply. Therefore, anything that will be going into the ground during the drilling process needs to be disinfected. Tools, pump, pipe, gravel pack material, and even water used during drilling should be treated with a 200 milligrams per liter chlorine solution.

Once the well is completed, it should be shock chlorinated (see Water Well Disinfection). Well owners should keep a close eye out for any signs of iron or sulfur bacteria contamination.

Shock Chlorination
Chlorine is a common disinfectant used in water systems, and is highly toxic to coliform and similar types of bacteria. Iron and sulfur bacteria are more resistant to chlorine's effects. This is because iron and sulfur bacteria occur in thick layers and are protected by the slime they secrete. A standard chlorine treatment may kill off bacterial cells in the surface layer but leave the rest untouched. In the case of iron bacteria, iron dissolved in the water may absorb disinfectant before it reaches the bacteria.

For all of these reasons, iron and sulfur bacteria may be able to survive a chlorine treatment that would kill other types of bacteria. Contact the Division of Environmental Health for information on shock chlorinating an iron- or sulfur-bacteria contaminated wells.

Acid Treatment
For severe cases, treatment with a strong acid and salt solution following a thorough shock chlorination may be required. The acid solution (commercial hydrochloric acid, commonly known as, "muriatic acid') may be able to penetrate thick incrustations of bacteria that the chlorine solution was unable to kill. This procedure should only be performed by a licensed well contractor.

Water Heater Treatment
As noted earlier, Sulfur-reducing bacteria (SRBs) can often contaminate water heaters, creating a foul smell when hot water is turned on. A water heater provides a good environment for SRBs because it contains a "sacrificial anode." This anode is a magnesium rod that helps protect the water heater by corroding instead of the tank lining. SRBs are nourished by electrons released from the anode as it corrodes.

Water heaters infested with SRBs can be treated. SRBs die at temperatures of 140 degrees Fahrenheit or above, which is roughly equivalent to the medium setting on most home water heaters. Setting the water heater on "high" will raise the water temperature to approximately 160 degrees Fahrenheit and kill any SRBs in the tank. (This should only be done if the water tank has a pressure relief valve, and everyone in the house should be warned to prevent scaldings.) After about eight hours, the tank can be drained and the temperature setting returned to normal.

Raising the water heater temperature will temporarily solve the odor problem, but SRBs will quickly reinvade unless more permanent measures are taken.

Removing the sacrificial anode will eliminate the problem, but it can also shorten the water heater lifespan significantly and may void the warranty. Replacing the magnesium rod with one made of zinc won't totally eliminate SRBs, but it will greatly reduce their numbers. Consult with a plumber before attempting to modify your water heater.

Follow-up Procedures
Shock chlorination or the other methods discussed should solve the immediate problems associated with iron or sulfur bacteria (odor, slime, etc.), but they are probably not long term solutions. Iron and sulfur bacteria tend to build up again a few months after treatment. Bacteria problems are much easier to control after the initial contamination has been treated, however.

To keep down bacterial regrowth, well owners can periodically disinfect their wells by shock chlorinating with a weaker chlorine solution. Alternatively, a chlorination unit which will constantly chlorinate the water can be installed. The Division of Drinking Water and Environmental Sanitation or a licensed well contractor can advise you on which option is best for you.
 
   / Help! Iron bacteria!
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks Kendall69. I believe we are at the beginning stages. I am hoping that shocking the well will do the trick. How do you shock a well with an above ground pump?
 
   / Help! Iron bacteria! #4  
Wow. Kendall had a good explanation. For simplicities sake I just put about a quart of Clorox in the well every month.

Solo
 
   / Help! Iron bacteria! #5  
I used 1-gallon of bleach for every 100' of depth of the water/well, seemed to work fine. Be sure too let it sit for a few hours before flushing. I know this is simple math but it did work, and I'm just a dumb Mainer:D

David
 
   / Help! Iron bacteria! #6  
As Kendall69 said, bacteria form slime that protects them from chlorine. That causes the slime to form encrustations that requires the use of acid and caustic to remove. And that may not be sufficient; heating th water to 180*f may be needed. In the mean time the recovery rate of the well can be reduced.

Chlorine is a poison. It is also a known carcinogen. The possibility of creating DBPs (disinfection by-products) known as THMs (trihalomethanes), which are limited to 50 or 80 ppB, is possible when shocking a well or otherwise using chlorine in water treatment although certain parameters must be present for the formation of DPBs/THMs.

So... pouring X volume of bleach down the well every so often is not a good thing in many cases and can cause health problems along with problems in the well plus water quality problems like rusty water etc..

Well cleaning and rehabilitation is expensive and temporary. Treating the water in the house is the only way to get rid of the problems in the house. There are a number of ways to do that and a water treatment dealer is the best choice for the varying types of problems and different types of treatment equipment.

Gary
Quality Water Associates
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Bush Hog 3510 10' PT Mower (A44501)
Bush Hog 3510 10'...
Year: 2015 Make: Ford Model: Explorer Vehicle Type: Multipurpose Vehicle (MPV) Mileage: Plate: Body (A44572)
Year: 2015 Make...
22’X23’ DOUBLE GARAGE (A45046)
22’X23’ DOUBLE...
1986 International S52300 Dump Truck (A44391)
1986 International...
2015 FREIGHTLINER CASCADIA  CA125SLP TANDEM AXLE SLEEPER (A43003)
2015 FREIGHTLINER...
2008 WESTERN STAR  4900EX (A45046)
2008 WESTERN STAR...
 
Top