HELP! (Dead) Battery ? Charging after work lights.

[rbcsaver]

I bought my B7510 new this year after we bought our new homw with 6.5 acres. Recently I fabricated mounts nd installed 2 55W Halogen "Blazer" light on the ROPS. They are connected to the light switch via a splice in the rear running lights. I had to increase the fuse to 15W after the factory 10 blew. Otherwise, no probelms. This past weekend I fabricated another mount and installed another 55W Halogen rear work light into the same head/rear light wiring, but with a toggle off/on switch.

Tonight, after working in the dang early winter/rain mud, with my Fel, then idling while I washed the mud off, I went to install the front plow for the impending storm. It would not start without a external jump.

I retrieved my volt meter and at full throttle, WITHOUT ANY LIGHTS after 15 mins, the reading at the battery terminals is 0
(zero) volts. A car usuallly is about +- 14 volts.

What DA voltage should I be reading without any lights at full throttle (or even idle). Is there a problem with my electrical charging/battery system? Do I need a larger, if it is available, generator? Is there a difference, for example be tweeen the generator for a 7510 of larger models. Ilooked on the Kubota wesite, but could not find any info.
regards,
Steve

 

[KennyV]

Hi Steve…
You have some kind of problem, /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I can not imagine getting a Zero volt reading at the battery, with engine running. As far as that goes I don’t see how you could get a Zero with engine not running, unless your battery suddenly went to an open.
You should have roughly the same readings on your tractor battery/ alternator, as you would expect on a car or truck. KennyV.

 

[MadReferee]

As an informational point, your 55 watt lights, when all 3 are on, are drawing 13.75 amps. The charging dynamo on your B7510 is only good for 14.5 charging amps. You are right on the hairy edge of discharging your battery while operating the tractor.

I would consider upgrading the dynamo to the optional 40 amp alternator if you add any other electrical accessories. There are several posts here on TBN that describe how this is done. Cost would be $165 for parts and about 3-4 hours.

 

[btolle]

Check your meter on a known good source such as your car battery. As an electrician I used to test my meter before I used it.

If you are using a volt-ohm meter it has a battery in it and also has a fuse in it. The wire on the fuse is so small you can hardly see it to know whether it has blown or not unless you use a magnifying glass.

Even a battery that won't crank a car will have a couple of volts left in it.

Bill Tolle

 

[rbcsaver]

Ooops,
Trying to do this late at night in the dark with a flashlight, I didn't see that one of my meter wires wasn't fully plugged in.

However, a retest today shows 12.8 volts at cold idle with no lights
on at all 1/2 throttle was about 13.9. With headlight and 2 Blazers
at idle, I was at 12 volts, 12.8 at 1/2 throttle with the rear work light added. I think the result is that I need the alternator upgrade kit.
I doubt that my dealer has them, he's also closed on Wednesdays. Anyone have a good source.
regards, and many thanks for your help,
Steve

 

[MadReferee]

Go to your dealer (or try TractorSmart.com) and have him order you a B7311 from whole goods. This is the alternator kit which includes the alternator, wiring harness, new dipstick and tube, and mounting brackets. It should come with instructions. MSRP is $165.

 

[ramon49]

Consider using different Wattage lights! Allot cheaper than 2 bills+. There are Quartz lights that will give you more light at less power(watts), cheaper cost. Auto store/internet search/ Wal-Mart.

 

[rbcsaver]

I just ordered the alternator upgrade kit from the great ppl at TractorSmart, $170 shipped to me.
regards,
Steve