Hello from East Texas

Rick01 · Nov 26, 2018

Hi all. I am a new member, hoping to pick up a few tips and tricks on dealing with my somewhat contrary 52 Ford 8n. It痴 a good tractor when it runs, but seems to only crank when it wants to.

jaxs · Nov 26, 2018

Welcome to TBN. Pull up a seat and tell us about your N. 12v or 6v and if there's any pattern to the no crank.
BTW,in TBN speak,crank =engine turning over,start = engine begin's to run. Which are you having trouble with?

Jchonline · Nov 26, 2018

:welcome:

I live in CO now, but grew up in TX. Father has a Super H Farmall with a similar temperament.

Rick01 · Nov 26, 2018

Its just moody I think, always turns over fine, just some mornings it cranks and runs fine, other mornings it just turns over but never starts. Seems to be an electrical issue, sometimes I have a good strong spark at plugs and other times it’s a very weak spark. Got a tune up kit coming so hopefully that will fix it. The tractor is a side distributor converted to 12 v.

jaxs · Nov 26, 2018

In the long haul,it's less expense and time spent to build an inclosure for old tractors to prevent starting problems. From about 1965 and back,cars,trucks and tractors that sat outdoors had starting problems when it rained,snowed or even on damp and foggy mornings. The problem is compounded when they set for weeks without being used. If one is serious about troubleshooting,learning to use a multi-meter can save a lot of *@!&$%:duh::banghead::hissyfit: ,time and expense.

Rick01 · Nov 26, 2018

That may be part of the problem. Usually if I crank it every day or two it’s fine but if it sits a week or two it doesn’t want to start. And yes, I do know how to use a multi meter having been an industrial electrician for twenty plus yrs.

rScotty · Nov 26, 2018

Rick01 said:
Its just moody I think, always turns over fine, just some mornings it cranks and runs fine, other mornings it just turns over but never starts. Seems to be an electrical issue, sometimes I have a good strong spark at plugs and other times it’s a very weak spark. Got a tune up kit coming so hopefully that will fix it. The tractor is a side distributor converted to 12 v.

Well of course it's moody; it's old enough to be that way if it wants to.

Welcome to TBN. There's does seem to be a fair amount of Texans here.
As Dolly said, "You never have to ask a person if they are from Texas.... because if they are they'll tell you. And if they aren't, that's no reason to make them feel bad."

On old electrical systems like that there's no telling where the spark is going. Sparks are pretty destructive over a 70 year time span, so you'll be time ahead to replace the coil, condensor, points, distributor cap, and do NOT forget to replace the spark plug wires and caps. Especially so if they are the old carbon core type spark plug wires and spark suppression caps so common in the 1960s plus or minus a couple of decades.... If you can, use spark plug leads with real wire inside.

Do all that once every 50 years and you still won't have $50 into the tuneup. Then if it doesn't both crank and start every time we'll know where to look.
Good luck now,
rScotty

jaxs · Nov 26, 2018

Rick01 said:
Its just moody I think, always turns over fine, just some mornings it cranks and runs fine, other mornings it just turns over but never starts. Seems to be an electrical issue, sometimes I have a good strong spark at plugs and other times it’s a very weak spark. Got a tune up kit coming so hopefully that will fix it. The tractor is a side distributor converted to 12 v.

Before digging deep or throwing in the towel,a little prep and preventive can go a long way. Since it run's well at times,I recommend not installing new tune up until you are convinced that it's needed. When you change points,condenser or coil,save old ones in zip-loc bag because a high precent of new parts are defective out of the box or go bad in short order. That's not a rant,it's fact. Anywho,let's do something productive but inexpensive. Make sure plug/coil wires are metal core or of very high quality withother cores. Start tractor in dark of night or inside building while looking for glow or sparks near plug/coil wires. If non is observed,clamp a booster cable to good ground on tractor then brush other end along wires while looking for light. It is beneficial to apply silicon inside wire boots to repel moisture. I cover point contacts,lightly spray inside distributor with WD40 or other silicon then wipe away excess. Always turn fuel supply off when tractor is parked more than an hour or two. Remove plugs,inspect for fouling. On a perfect cylinder,the porcelain around center electrode should be slightly tan/beige/orange. If it's dry and sooty black,carburator is running rich. If it's ash white,plugs are to hot plus cooling system should be checked for proper circulation through head(laser thermometer). If it's wet and caked,oil is coming past rings or valve stems. In the last scenario,not much you can do other than clean plugs routinely until the engine require's rebuild. That should keep you busy for a while and hopfully help's engine start a little more dependably.

jaxs · Nov 26, 2018

Rick01 said:
I do know how to use a multi meter having been an industrial electrician for twenty plus yrs.

That put's you light years ahead of 75% of the average person when it come's to electrical grimlins. Be sure to mention that when asking about anything electrical.
Once more :welcome: