Hello!....and help!

   / Hello!....and help! #1  

hard head

New member
Joined
Apr 19, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Clayton, AL
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Hi all...I have been visiting this forum for awhile and finally signed up tonight. Originally, I was visiting while I was tractor shopping, but decided to put that on hold. Now, I am here as a member needing help trying to help my friend with his Mahindra 4110 (2005+/-). So here is what happened........

Tractor was running fine while we were doing a little work at farm. It became low on fuel, so filled it up from the diesel barrel without realizing barrel had a lot of water in it. Tractor ran fine for a moment and then quit. We drained tank, removed filter, and turned engine over a few times to clear the lines. Topped tank off with clean fuel and it ran fine. I was present when this occurred.

On the same weekend or maybe the next, cannot remember now, and not sure how many hours later but couldn't have been over 8-10, tractor was being used with tiller attached to PTO. I wasn't present when this happened, but they said the motor suddenly began running at much higher rpm's - to the point the manual kill switch had a hard time killing it (cannot kill it with key..another story) and the fan blew apart. Not sure if the fan coming apart is significant since tractor has several years of wear and tear, but the rpm's were no doubt jacked up. Finally, the engine quit and would not restart. No knocks, rattles, or unusual smoke before it stopped running.

Weather has been nasty for a few weeks, and more on the way, so it will be a week or so before I can provide specific feedback to questions or suggestions you may have.

I am going to start from scratch and make sure fuel system is clean and free of air. I assume this model has injector for each cylinder, and will crack each open to bleed. I hope the issue is a carryover from the water/fuel problem earlier..maybe some stabilizer that wasn't mixed made it rev up.

Is there a safety mechanism that might have tripped due to the PTO being engaged when the high rpm's occurred that I need to check? Do you have other suggestions with starting points?

On a side note, in reading threads, I found that solenoid may be why we cannot turn off engine with the key. So I will fix that if I can get it running again.

Thanks for your help. Again, we have rain in the forecast for several days, so I may not be able to provide feedback until later since tractor is at different location, but if you can give me a list of things to begin my search/ troubleshooting with I will greatly appreciate it.
 
   / Hello!....and help! #2  
It sounds like the water in the fuel at an earlier date harmed your injection pump. There's a good chance one of the rods in it are ceased . My experience with the fuel solenoid is that it shuts off the full when compromised. Does it have a turbo that can also cause a run away if it starts pumping oil into the engine I've been told.
 
   / Hello!....and help! #3  
the engine ran away.

fuel rack/governor probably stuck/seized in the injector pump due to the damage caused by lack of lubrication.

you could completely clear the fuel system refill with some fresh from the pump diesel also adding some outboard 2 stroke oil (adds lubricity to the fuel) and then hope it frees itself back up perminatly... this method is dangerous as it could stick and cause the engine to run away again so thats up to you.

If it were me I would have the injector pump rebuilt, even better would be to have the injectors tested also.

And the fan blowing apart is significant... you probably dont wanna know the RPM your engine over revved too. :eek:

my .02
 
   / Hello!....and help! #4  
Just above the injection pump, there is a small valve, turn it counter clockwise to open it and then try to start it. If and when it starts, close the valve and you are good to go.
 
   / Hello!....and help!
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks for the prompt responses, guys. Texan, I laughed out loud at your comment about the rpms. No, I don't want to know. My background is auto mechanics, racing cars, but not familiar with diesel. However, in any case, I know high rpms are bad, bad, bad. Had a race car once that the throttle stuck as I lifting a little for turn 3. Didn't go well.

We actually have overcast today, so I was going to go give these things a try. However, my freaking garage door opener is not working and my wife wants that repaired first.

Please keep suggestions coming. It sounds like we are all in the fuel/fuel related category, so maybe engine is okay.

Texan, how much oil would you add and, if it frees up, how/why would it stick again?

Galen, I assume that is a bleeder valve. Are you suggesting doing that instead of cracking open each injector? I guess I need to know i have fuel at that point first, right, or opening injectors is a waste of time.

Billrog, it does not have turbo.

Thanks again...great guys, here.
 
   / Hello!....and help!
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Update...had some sunshine so took at look at old red. Pressed the foot throttle and it had not resistance. The throttle linkage to engine is stuck "open". I could not push it back manually. Decided to drain the fuel from the tank but couldn't find the drain cock, then it began to rain.

Does diesel engine have to be running for the throttle to spring back? Shouldn't there be a drain on bottom of tank?

If he wants to trailer it to a dealer for repair, do you know any tricks to getting FEL bucket to stay up?

By the way, only one blade was missing on the fan, but the entire radiator over flow container was gone. It must have been shaking and rattle so hard it feel into engine. The nipple is still in the hose, but that is it.

Thanks again, guys.
 
   / Hello!....and help! #7  
Thanks for the prompt responses, guys. Texan, I laughed out loud at your comment about the rpms. No, I don't want to know. My background is auto mechanics, racing cars, but not familiar with diesel. However, in any case, I know high rpms are bad, bad, bad. Had a race car once that the throttle stuck as I lifting a little for turn 3. Didn't go well.

We actually have overcast today, so I was going to go give these things a try. However, my freaking garage door opener is not working and my wife wants that repaired first.

Please keep suggestions coming. It sounds like we are all in the fuel/fuel related category, so maybe engine is okay.

Texan, how much oil would you add and, if it frees up, how/why would it stick again?

Galen, I assume that is a bleeder valve. Are you suggesting doing that instead of cracking open each injector? I guess I need to know i have fuel at that point first, right, or opening injectors is a waste of time.

Billrog, it does not have turbo.

Thanks again...great guys, here.

by no means am I an expert just giving my opinion...

The reason I suggest TCW3 2 stoke oil specifically was because it doesn't leave deposits when burned since it was formulated to be mixed with fuel. And it is common to use about 1oz per gallon of diesel as an additive.

the idea behind adding it in your case is to try and get as much lubrication to your pump as fast as possible.

It has the potential to stick again because it could be scored/galled beyond what can be compensated for with proper lubrication.

I know how much injector pump rebuilds can be so i thought I would mention the option of "lube it and hope for the best" instead of condemning the injector pump from the get go.

again my 2 cents take it for what its worth. lol. Good luck with your 4110, the 10 series are tough. It wouldn't surprise me if the hail marry works like a charm runs just fine.
 
   / Hello!....and help! #8  
Have something that you can block the air intake with in case it takes off again.
 
   / Hello!....and help! #9  
I have never understood how that valve worked, nor did it matter to me, but that was in the service manual, about opening the valve when you ran it out of fuel. I have never noticed any air or fuel discharge when opening the valve, and the tractor will run with the valve open. Any time I had a customer run one out of fuel, I told them about it and restarting has never been a hassle. Only the early made TYM made models with the Daedong engine, had it and I wish all of the tractors had it as it saves a lot of hassle.
 
   / Hello!....and help!
  • Thread Starter
#10  
We are trying to get the Mahindra under the shed so we can start chasing some of these suggestions you guys have made. It rained for two weeks and now it is 90 degrees with rain again the next four days. But now I have John Deere problem...I know this is the wrong forum for it, but you guys can probably answer it in your sleep. If I need to post it over there, please let me know.

Was using the JD 5400 to tow the Mahindra. I believe "off" on the JD is straight up and down (aged and not labeled anymore)...at least that is where the key can be removed. Tractor was left over night with the key turned all the way to the left (preheat?..not sure, never have to use it here). Today, starter solenoid would only click, but the engine did try to turn a few times. However, it could not be jump started with a truck.

Dead battery, or have we now torn up something on the JD? I slow charged battery for four hours, tried it again, but only clicked. I knew it wasn't long enough, but was concerned since I did this screw up.

Thanks, again.
 

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