Heating Problem

[Mrwurm]

Well folks, its getting pretty chilly in my house. With overnight lows in the 30's outdoors, its down to about 55 degrees in my house.

A few weeks ago we converted over from propane to natural gas. I was told that all I needed to do was call a contractor and have my furnace converted to use the new fuel source. Here is where the trouble starts. It seems that I have a furnace that most contractors and parts suppliers have never heard of. Its a Conquest 80, made by Heat Controller, inc.

A few suppliers told me that they knew of this unit, but could not provide parts. I had almost given up my search, when I found one supplier who was willing to do some research and determine what I needed. Turns out, that the parts I need (six jets and a gas controller $218) can be acquired through Rheem. My helpful supplier ordered the parts and told me it would take two or three days.

Well, its been two weeks and still no parts. I've been told that these are rare parts (for this make) and may take another week to arrive.

I understand that propane burns hotter per unit of volume. So, the jets that I need for natural gas use should deliver more volume. Meaning, the jets for propane are too small for natural gas. I'm not sure why a gas controller is needed. It must have something to do with the propane and natural gas being delivered at different pressures.

All this, to ask one question. What will happen if I operate my propane furnace with natural gas ? Will it just put out less heat ?

Its pretty chilly in here, and I may give this a try if the experts think its safe.

 

[VA_Joe]

No - don't do that. The jets need to be changed out to adust the metering of the gas (natural gas and propane have different air/gas ratios for combustion). The burners may or may not work. The problem is that if they do work - they will not work as intended (i.e. the flame will not be blue). Using the wrong jets can/will result in incomplete combustion (i.e. leading to an explosive build-up of combustible gas) and/or a build up of carbon monoxide (which isn't good either).

Joe

 

[Mrwurm]

Ok Joe, thanks for letting me know. I'll just have to wait.

 

[Sigarms]

Somthing you may want to think about is replacing the furnace altogether.

Assuming it's over 10 yrs old and with the parts availability situation, you may find yourself in a real bind if the furnace goes out on you in the winter (which could happen).

Am I correct in assuming it's 150k btu furnace?

Seems strange that the gas valve and burners are coming from Rheem, unless heat controller made the furnace for Rheem and they (Rheem) still have parts which is strange as well.

Personally, I would check with heat controller themselves to verify the parts will work.

Usually with burners (which I'm assuming your term is "jets"), or you could mean the pilot orifices (which are smaller for propane thatn natural gas) they are OEM. Thinking about it, the orifices may not be OEM, and maybe the gas valce isn't as well, but...where did you rec. your info from, the supplier or contractor?

 

[JerryG]

If you can find a dealer that isn't trying to keep trade secrets. Most furnaces are made by only 2-3 manufactures and the different names put on them. I would bet that Rheem is the manufacture no matter what name is on it.

 

[Mrwurm]

Yes, its 150k btu. I believe that orifice is probably the right term. I need six at about $16 each.

I called Heat Controller and they would not tell me much. As soon as they found out that I was not a pro, they stopped answering questions. They supplier I'm working with called them and that is how they got the list of required parts.

The gas controller needed is a Honeywell VR8205h 8016. The furnace is a model Conquest 80, GKUA150-E5N serial CW5D307 F0194 0143. Furnace is 11 yrs old.

Yes, I have thought of replacing the entire unit, but the parts have already been paid for and non-refundable.

 

[VA_Joe]

It's amazing to me that they cost that much. The last time I bought a gas range, it came with a set of discs that needed to be changed in order to convert the range to propane gas. All that they do is change the air/fuel ratio in favor of the chosen fuel type.

Sorry for the terminology confusion - I liken this process to rejetting a carb (done for a different purpose - but a similar idea).

Joe

 

[VA_Joe]

He has a good point. I was wondering last week why the house was always cold in the mornings and found out that the draft induction motor was burned out. Changed that yesterday and then found out that my real problem was a bad air sensing switch.

The air sensing tells the controller that the draft induction motor is working and that it is okay to activate the burners - because the burners weren't coming on - the draft induction motor ran 24/7 for who knows how long (to make matters worse - my wife had the thermostat temperature set way up). At least I was saving on winter fuel costs.

The point is that once failures start happening - they tend to cascade.

Joe

 

[Egon]

In the past I have drilled out propane jets for use with natural gas. Had to make some adjustment to the air to get the proper flame.

Don't recommend the procedure though.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Sigarms]

I'm surprised that they sold you the parts.

You probably shouldn't of prepaid for them as well.

I would ask if the parts are OEM (original equipment manufacturer) or not. Just because it's not OEM does not mean it will not work (alot of equipment doesn't use OEM parts which is GOOD), but unless you know what your doing, some rewiring may be needed or drilling.

It may be simple or it could be a job from ****.

You can get your money back, and just for the fact that they told you you couldn't, they are betting that your going to screw it up and bring the parts back (back to the fact that if your not a contractor, they are idiots for trying to sell you the parts to beging with).

Parts probably cost about $95 and they figure if the contractor isn't going to make a parts mark up on you, they will. The difference is if it doesn't work and you do it yourself, you're out over $200 and still have to make somthing work for heat (yet more money).

At least if you pay a contractor and get a bill, if it dosen't work it becomes his problem, not yours all over again (assuming you get a HVAC guy that knows what he's doing).