Having trouble hooking up PTO driveshaft.

[Singlecoil]

I can't seem to get this thing to go on to the tractor. It will go on as far as the ball bearings inside the coupling, but they seem to be stopping me from putting it on any further. The black plastic housing slides forward, similar to the release on a hydraulic line, but it doesn't seem to do anything. Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks

 

[Singlecoil]

Another pic.

 

[Singlecoil]

and one more

 

[beenthere]

Slides forward? or slides back towards the implement?

Or is it possibly the type that the plastic ring twists to allow the 'balls' to retract?

Can't see much from the pic attached. Is it clean in and around the balls such that they don't have dried grease/dirt behind them? Any burrs on the male drive end that might catch the ball, keeping it (them) from retracting out of the way?
(Edit - I jumped in too soon, and see the other pics are giving a better view. Are you positive that the ring slides forward to 'release' for sliding on, or that it slides back to 'release' and then forward to lock? From the pics, no burrs are apparent but the plastic ring looks to be in the 'open' position in the pic.)

 

[Ductape]

I had the same problem with the shaft that came with my used chipper. I would have been happy to spend a hundred bucks on a new one if i could have found a tractor dealer within fifty miles that had the right end in stock. Put the shaft in a vise and disassemble it. Removing the snap ring will allow you to take apart that end. Thoroughly degrease and clean everything..... hand file any nicks or burrs on the splines, then put a light coat of grease on everything as you reassemble it. You probably have dried grease in there thats keeping it from working properly. Hope this helps !!

Scott

 

[gizmo]

It looks to me like that gold colored outer ring held back with the snap ring and inside the black plastic ring should slide backward to release the retainer balls. At least that is how mine works. The black plastic should just be a dust cover.

 

[GaryM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It looks to me like that gold colored outer ring held back with the snap ring and inside the black plastic ring should slide backward to release the retainer balls. At least that is how mine works. The black plastic should just be a dust cover. )</font>

I'm pretty sure you're correct. It looks just like the one on the PHD I borrowed last year. I spent some time trying to push the plastic ring forward to retract the locking balls before I figured it out.

 

[Pooh_Bear]

I have to use a sledge hammer to get anything on my PTO.
I put a new PTO shaft in last fall and a new ORC and it made it worse.

I often take on/off my finish mower. The drive shaft has a push button coupler.
You push the button and slide the shaft on.
The button fell out so I drilled the yoke out and put a bolt in place of the button.
I just remove the bolt to take off/put on the drive shaft.
But I still have to use a sledge hammer to do this.
I tried filing the outside of the ORC as it spun.
I filed the splines inside the yoke of the driveshaft.

Don't know what else I can do.
Afraid I'm gonna break something beating on it.

Pooh Bear

 

[Singlecoil]

Ding! That was it! I was sliding the black plastic part forward, thinking that was supposed to release the ball bearings. I just went out and slid the gold part back and it went right on, on problem. Thanks gizmo and everyone else!
Once again, TBN saves the day. My dealer was trying to help me over the phone, and I couldn't figure it out because he kept saying to slide the ring back. I kept telling him that the black plastic part only slid forward. I was wondering if mine was assembled backwards or something. Tomorrow I get to dig holes!

 

[LarryD]

<font color="blue"> I have to use a sledge hammer to get anything on my PTO.
</font> I'd bet my next paycheck your O&M manual doesn't mention a sledge hammer for anything, there is something wrong.
I think I would take the smallest section of the PTO shaft I could and do a serious fit test to see why it was binding, sometimes mine can be a little troublesome to line up but with a little fussing I get it lined up and it slides right up...no hammers required.

 

[Pooh_Bear]

The manual doesn't have to say anything about a sledge hammer.
Everyone knows a sledge hammer is your basic Ford tool.

Haven't tried the RC cutter yet with the new ORC.
I may try that tomorrow and see how it fits.

Not looking forward to putting the RFM back on right now.
And I'm gonna have to do this soon.

Pooh Bear
Proud Owner of a 1949 Ford 8N

Pooh Bear

 

[GaryM]

One thing I'll mention that took me a while to figure out.

The PTO shaft on my RFM is impossible to turn by hand. You need to turn the shaft so as to line up the splines on the PTO shaft with the splines on the tractors PTO output. At least that's what I did for a year. And it's a struggle because of the belt load on the mower. Very difficult. And I could not turn the tractors output shaft by hand.

Then one day last fall I realized that all I had to do was switch the PTO selector lever to the mid-PTO position. That disengaged the rear PTO and allowed it to be turned with two fingers. Engine off of course.

It's a simple thing that just never occured to me. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[Pooh_Bear]

I just raise one of the covers and grab the belt and turn it.
May not can use the shaft to turn the belts,
but you can use the belts to turn the shaft.

Pooh Bear

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You need to turn the shaft so as to line up the splines on the PTO shaft with the splines on the tractors PTO output. )</font>
On my Kioti when the PTO lever is disengaged, the shaft on the tractor turns easily. I put the implement's shaft up against the PTO and turn by hand until I feel the splines line up, then hold whatever type collar or pin and slide it on all the way then let go of the collar/pin and pull back to lock into the indentation.

The hardest type of locking mech. that I have is the type that has to be pushed forward or pulled backward. My tiller uses a pull back type, and it's a pain to pull back on the collar while pushing forward on the shaft, but that's the only way I can get it on.

John

 

[GaryM]

My covers are held down by a threaded knob, and I think it would be difficult to reach back there. But I'll admit I never tried it. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

The PTO shaft on my JD brush cutter is the push-pull type. And I also find it a pain. The coupling on my RFM is a turn ring and it's a lot easier to use.

 

[Ryno1]

Kioti, put me down as one you dislikes the pull back while pushing forward connections. I have a couple one is on the backhoe pump, not much room between tractor and hoe when doing the connection. Best way I've found is to take a visegrip (well not a normal one, a pipe visegrip I guess it would be), pull the collar back, and clamp the vise grip on, on mine the visegrip will hold the collar and still allow it to connect.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( he PTO shaft on my JD brush cutter is the push-pull type. And I also find it a pain. The coupling on my RFM is a turn ring and it's a lot easier to use. )</font>
I'm happy to say the tiller is the only one I have with the push/pull. My rotary mower has a very easy Thumb push pin that goes right on. Not long ago, I spent nearly 30 minutes trying to get that darn tiller's shaft on and in the process of holding the ring back, and trying to push forward, I broke some cartlidge in my left upper chest. Hurt for nearly a month!

Rynno1, I'll have to try the vice grips. I'm not sure they will clear the PTO sheild over the shaft though. It's nice on the higher up Kioties that the PTO sheild lifts up out of the way for better access.
John