Backhoe Has anyone had to replace backhoe teeth

dicker · May 30, 2005

My 48 backhoe has about 250 hours of use on it and this past week while trenching 700 ft about a depth of 4 feet, I lost a tooth.

I ordered a couple of teeth from JD and had difficulty putting in on as the manual suggests by peening, so my neighbour welded it on instead.

Any comments or suggestions.

Thanks

Richard

4710and110TLB · Jun 5, 2005

Aww don't weld, that weld will crack immediately just peen them or get an air hammer and beat the crap out of them till they are on. I had the same problem on my 110 with the stupid peen on teeth that is the worst design I have ever seen I ordered a C and P bucket with 310/410 teeth that are cast and pin on. Not one tooth problem yet. Knock on wood. The weld will crack because the teeth WILL get loose again ane the teeth or a lot softer metal than the tooth stubs on the bucket. Different alloys and the weld will not stay and should not really be on there now instead of breaking teeth ($5 and a little hammering) you will break the stubs($? and cut off and reweld whole thing on). The reason it is like that is so the cheap piece breaks before the bucket.

Sparkeee24 · Jun 5, 2005

Howdy! I'm curious what you think of the 110? I am demo-ing one right now, and it's awesome!!! What is the ability of the 33 hp pto? It's the only drawback I can see... compared to the ag series, which has more PTO. Can I do anything I could want to with a 6ft implement / attachment with the 110? Thanks! Brian Lee Sparkeee24

dicker · Jun 5, 2005

Thanks for the comments.

I had a lot of trouble getting the tooth fairly ridgid on the stub. I found that the tooth was soft enough that it was splitting where I was peening. I will remove the welded tooth and try the air hammer on a new one.

Thanks again

Richard

justforme · Jun 5, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks for the comments.

I had a lot of trouble getting the tooth fairly ridgid on the stub. I found that the tooth was soft enough that it was splitting where I was peening. I will remove the welded tooth and try the air hammer on a new one.

Thanks again

Richard )</font>

i'd leave the welded one one.

iv'e got two welded on my case 530, they've been on for a couple of years now with no sign of cracking.

Sparkeee24 · Jun 5, 2005

Howdy! How about a big beafy C-clamp? pipe clamp? Or one of those 1 ton presses you can get from cheepo harbor freight that are lever actuated? Just some random thoughts! Brian Lee Sparkeee24

4710and110TLB · Jun 7, 2005

Any of those peen on teeth will be loose I broke a hundred of the little things with my 110 before I yelled enough and told deere to take the bucket back. I bought a C and P for $10 more and have a bucket with 70#'s more steel and lots better teeth.
As far as the 110 itself goes I love it to death but I have had so many little mickey mouse BS problems with it it is not even funny they extended my warranty for another 6 months and I hope all the problems are worked out then. Most problems have been leaks (hyd and oil) and hoses. It is the little problems that cost a few bucks that you will loose a 1000 bucks on because you can't work some weekend. I am told that my problems are rare. I don't abuse it the customer cannot make hoses pop or leaks happen. I have not broken any structural as of yet (knock on wood) it is a very solid and ridgid machine. The PTO is plenty to turn a six foot cutter or I even use an eight foot when it is going to be used on a bigger job. Six foot implements such as blades, box blades, etc you are going to tear them to pieces you need to go to cat2 stuff and put cat 1 pins on them. It doesn't have that excevise power breaking stuff it's weight breaks them and tear them apart! Mine weighs in at over 9000 with the hoe on. I have the fronts foam filled and the rears filled with washer fluid. I don't have a problem with the cat 2 equpiment breaking the tractor either as it is built stronger and its power to weight ratio is not that good. The amount of dirt you can move with the tractor is quite substantially greater than with a green loader. The bucket on this is about twice the size. If you look at the price to get a green one set up the way a 110 is then you are going to spend at least the amount of a 110. Then it still won't be as heavy or as strong. Just my .02 hope it helps you make up your one way or another. Sam /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

gvw · Jun 8, 2005

Mine are welded and doing great - had the same problem with the peening thing - welds are holding and I am digging in some pretty serious rock.

aigeezer · Jul 7, 2009

I have a very small backhoe (no laughing please), and I recently damaged a peened tooth. I went to the JD dealer and asked for a tooth for a small backhoe such as a JD7, hoping it would be generic enough to use on my FCM rig. They came up with part number T2A for $Cdn 8.42 and it seems like a good match.

The JD tooth looks too beefy to peen or crimp on, which is fine by me. It has two holes that line up with the dimples on my tooth stubs, so I decided to put threads in the holes and secure the tooth with bolts. I used a 16NC SAE thread and 3/8" bolts. I couldn't find short enough bolts at the local store, so I had to cut off 1/2 inch or so. I used lockwashers, since there was no room to insert nuts. I've tested it for a couple of hours of rocky digging and so far, everything is very tight. The remaining peened-on teeth are wiggly, so I'll replace them as needed. I'm hoping that this will turn out to be a quick fix for all future broken teeth.

The photo shows a few of the new JD teeth (I bought spares) surrounding the damaged tooth, along with the threading tool, bolt and lock washer.

aigeezer · Sep 11, 2020

Apologies for posting to a necro thread but... yesterday I finally lost another crimped-on backhoe tooth, 11 years after the previous one! I grabbed one of the spares made long ago (see above), bolted it in place, and was back to digging within minutes. Also, the bolt-on replacement from 2009 is still going strong. This approach really seems to work.