H&H tilt bed trailers

[richtidebruin]

I have been looking at tilt bed trailers (as some others have) and have pretty much decided that tilt is the way I want to go. I anticipate light usage (not hauling for a business) and will be hauling a TC 34 with FEL and an implement or 2 - box blade and tiller.

After much lurking on this forum, I have pretty much determined that an 18ft 10k trailer w/wood floor should meet my needs the best.

H&H trailers run significantly less $$ than some others, and I am almost sold on them -- but I have some concern/reservations about the method in which they tilt. It appears that when tilting, 1) they put undue stress on the trailer tongue/receiver and 2) because the front trailer axle is suspended in air, the rear axle would take a lot more stress over time.

I am questioning because pictures will only say so much, and the nearest dealer is 2 1/2 hours away, 2 states over....

George, any insight on your experience with the MX you have would be great. I don't know that you have posted the GVWR on your trailer, but I am guessing it's a 20ft 10k lb trailer.

Rich

 

[George2615]

Rich,
My trailer is the 82" wide deck X 20' long MX which uses a manually operated hydraulic jack to tilt the bed. I thought the EX (Electric tilt) option was too costly for me so I converted mine to an EX myself. Ordered the cylinder from Northern and got the Hydraulic power box and hoses locally and installed myself. I also bought the 8000# winch, made my own frame to support it and installed it all in the TSC box to save money on that option. No sense paying someone else to install them on a trailer when I've been in the mechanical field all my life. I did get mine with a spare tire, removable fenders, ICC/DOT lighting pkg., drop leg jack, treated deck, undercoating, and brakes on both axles.
The only problem I saw is that if you use a load distribution hitch, you have to unhook the lifting bars before you tilt the bed. Once the bed is tilted the back of the trailer is touching the ground and you drive on. The front is supported by the hyd. cyl. I don't use my WD hitch since my truck can haul a 12K trailer with the hitch I have. I use a three sided (1 7/8", 2", and 10K 2 5/16" ball) adjustable height unit that slides into the receiver.
I've hauled cars, trucks, tractors, motorcycles, 4 wheelers, garden sheds, lumber etc. without any problems. I also have an Appalachian 24' gooseneck trailer I bought used but use the tiltbed for most trailering. I have posted several pics of it in the members photos / other brands / mahindra area on pages 5 &6.

George

 

[radman1]

Richtidebruin
I also have a H&H 24' 14,000 EX (electric hydraulic) on a F250 pickup. I also put on a 9500# ramsey winch and run if off the trailer's battery. Yes, there is some tongue weight when tipped up but I don't feel it is excessive. I also don't worry much about the weight on just the rear axle. I don't feel either of these issues are major concern since the weight is relatively temporary and there is not a shock load to the system like if you hit an obstacle with a tire or drive through a dip in the road. The tongue weight on your hitch will be much more than when you just load the trailer.
I consider the weight of your tractor, FEL and attachments a nonissue in your case. The manual lift model should do just fine but try it because I have heard it takes quite a few strokes. The electric is probably up in 5-10 sec. Also consider torsion axles instead of conventional springs. I think the trailer ride smoother when empty - especially with the heavier axles.
A 18', 10,000# trailer seems ideal for that load. 20' would also be good and the cost of 2 more feet is relatively cheap. (I think about $100-200) I think the undercoating, treated deck and brakes on both axles is standard on that size of trailer.

 

[richtidebruin]

Thanks, both radman1 and george I appreciate the input...

I agree the electric is probably more convienent, but am afraid (due to light usage) the battery will always be dead when I go to use it. The price is considerably cheaper, and I could always convert as George did.

I was also wondering about the torsion axles, because the upcharge seems minor compared to the benefits. I am also tempted to go the route of a 20ft, if for no other reason that it appears that the tilt angle required to touch the ground is significantly less - helping to alleviate the concerns I have to begin with.

The only problem I have with a 20ft is my driveway - which has a fairly steep approach from the road. The 16ft 7k ramp trailer I have rented on occasion clears ok, 18ft probably pushing it, but a 20ft would be a struggle to make sure the tail doesnt drag concrete or ashpalt.

I like Big Tex's 10FT model (18ft 10k torsion axles) tilt method and think that model is a great trailer that fits my needs perfectly, but that dealer is just as far away, and at approx $4400 -- H&H trailers give you more trailer by far for the money... and probably is just as good quality wise.

Speaking of quality - I was quoted locally, by a small welding company/trailer manufacturer $2600 for a 20ft 10k tilt trailer with a 4ft stationary pad and 16ft tilt section. Even for an economy trailer, I thought that was a good price, but they will only make with steel plate floors, no undercoat, heavy angle iron instead of channel underneath...not my preference, but might be fine for some especially given the price.

Rich

 

[George2615]

Rich,
Just a note on what I did. When I put my own winch on and converted to the electric / hydraulic lift I bought a big battery to run them. That battery is charged from the vehicle when plugged in my 7 pin plug. I also removed the tiny electric brake battery and tied that lead into the big battery. As radman said the manually pumped jack for the tilt bed takes quite a few strokes since mine only moved the cylinder at most 1/4" at a time. I didn't count but I'm sure it took about a hundred strokes to get the bed tilted high enough. My manual tilt jack was used twice before I ordered and switched to the elec./hyd unit. I was all wore out just pumping that jack.

 

[radman1]

Rich,
I don't have the trailer battery tied to the trucks battery although that is the best way to do it. The battery will last a lot of lifts because the lift load is relatively light. My dump trailer is electric and the battery won't last near as long as my trailer. The nice features about the electric is that they are fast and are power down. Sometimes I will load something, then power down the tilt even though the weight is on the rear of the trailer. Then readjust the balance of the load. Before I had the winch, I could barely push a car on the trailer with some help and then power down and readjust the load easily. I believe the electric is about $1000 more than manual.
Some people don't like torsion axles because cost to repair or replace a spring problem is much higher than standard slip springs.

 

[richtidebruin]

Rich,
I didn't count but I'm sure it took about a hundred strokes to get the bed tilted high enough. My manual tilt jack was used twice before I ordered and switched to the elec./hyd unit. I was all wore out just pumping that jack.

Well now y'all have me thinking a little differently... I'll have to make a couple calls, but there is/was a 20ft 10k EX that was priced at $3800 near Indianapolis. What do you think about that price?

Another slightly closer dealer had a lot of 18ft's 6-10, but he thought they were all 7k trailers. I could probably get away with a 7k on an 18 footer, but why not do it right the 1st time? I noticed a good bit of trailer flex on the 7k 16ft trailer with my tractor and a box blade when I encountered pavement transitions and bridges on the interstate...

Rich

 

[radman1]

I paid $5400 for my 24' EX three years ago. 8" frame, 14,000 axles and tires. Had optional removable front bar, torsion axles, heavier jack, stake pockets, drive over HD fenders, spare rim and had them add 2 removable ramps (sometimes I don't want to tilt the trailer and use the ramps). Ordered it from the company. I bought mine before the price of steel went nuts a few years ago. The dealer near me is the largest volume H&H dealer in the US and he is not too far from the manufacture. He usually has 200-250 units on his lot. If you let me know exactly what you want, I can have him price one out and use it for a comparison.
You can call him yourself if you want. Neel's Trailer Outlet, Elmwood NE 877-921-9051. Ask for Neel. He is a down to earth kind of guy. Generally, one price take it or leave it.

 

[George2615]

Rich,
I have about $4400. invested in my 20'MX which includes converting it to my version of the EX with a winch. I got mine in Sept. 05. Its a 2006 model. I also have a set of ramps I can use if I don't want to tilt the bed and I made those too.
$3800 for a 20' EX doesn't sound too bad to me but you have to pick it up or have it shipped. There were no dealers in NY when I bought mine. I drove to PA for mine, 6 hour ride each way and was still cheaper than a similar trailer locally.

 

[Redbug]

Also Rich,

When I was investigating trailers, H&H was one of the ones at the top of my list...a very good trailer.

On the H&H website there is a pdf file you can print out that shows all the options and prices for the various trailers they make. Base trailer, for instance, with the 10k upgrade, added length...20' with extra D rings, your choice of colors, etc, etc. You can study over it, decide how you want the trailer and have it delivered to the H&H dealer for a set price. Compare the prices on the website with the added options of what you really want...and what a dealer already has on the lot before making a decision. Just like ordering a car the way you want it, (adding up the option prices to base) verses what a dealer has on the lot. Remember, you can haggle since the H&H website posts MSRP prices. Get it the way you want it...and in the long run you will be happier.
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