GX345 FD611V Engine is toast

[kingofbytes]

Hello!

I wanted to pick everyone's brain (if I may) for any advice, tricks, tips, places to purchase engines or parts or both, etc.

I had a mouse climb up into the engine and start chewing on things all within a week. I did NOT know this happened.

Then, within my second to last row of grass cutting, the engine starting to make ungodly noises. I immediately stopped the engine and checked for what was up. I saw oil all over my mowing deck (directly under the chassis...not visible while mowing). I thought I sprung a leak. Anyway, I think I fixed the issue. Now the engine won't even crank.

Dealer says it's toast. I don't mind trying to repair. If you have any guidance, it would be appreciated.

Looking in at the cylinders through the spark plug hole, it appears to have a nice black , textured glaze on them. Any thoughts?

 

[KennyV]

Hello!



Dealer says it's toast. ... Any thoughts?

What exactly is the dealer saying is wrong.
Crank main and rod bearings galded and bearings spun?
Valve train and cam ruined?
Piston and rings damaged?
Cylinder walls scarred?
There are many things that could be "toast" some combinations are not practical to repair. Sometimes it makes more $ense to replace the engine... even with a good used engine. KennyV

 

[KennyV]

You can also check this site....
John Deere GX345 Outdoor Power Equipment Repower from Small Engine Warehouse
Good luck, but post back with what you find... KennyV.

 

[kingofbytes]

Hello!

The dealer wasn't specific. I emailed them with my problems and they stated it would probably be more costly to repair than to replace. They stated the F611V's aren't made anymore and but that they can source all the components.

The estimate was about $2800 for the engine (purchased in components, not the whole block) and estimated 11 hrs ($70/hr) for labor. That did NOT include any other issues which may be found. They were honest enough to note that the Deere book shows 5-6 hrs for labor but only if they can buy the complete core. And also, they said they'd be doing some cleaning, etc.

I saw the site you linked and was wondering about them. Does the engine actually just simply install? I'm ok with regards to being mechanically inclined, but am no expert and know my limitations.

I've also looked at used 345's and they want 4-5K for them. With all the 0% financing available, I'd think I'd just upgrade instead of forking over 4-5K for a repair. Let me know experiences or concerns with these Briggs Vertical kits. Thanks!

 

[KennyV]

There is nothing very special or unique about vertical shaft gas engines... If I were you I would take them up on their "E-mail us about your John Deere GX345..." I am sure they have covered about any problem anyone has had. It sounds like they are 'the pros from Dover' on this particular swap.
$1050.-- for a complete new engine is a bargan, plus at only 125 pounds it will be very simple to R&R looks like the only modification will be adding the choke cable that they provide and tell you how to install.KennyV

 

[schmism]

$1050.-- for a complete new engine is a bargan, plus at only 125 pounds it will be very simple to R&R looks like the only modification will be adding the choke cable that they provide and tell you how to install.KennyV

northern lists a 21hp B&S for $620....

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200354783_200354783

course put a nice 20hp honda in it and your looking at $1400

 

[slaveToHorses]

If it were mine, and I decided not to upgrade the whole mower, I would not replace it with another B&S. I have 6 B&S small engines (up to an 18hp Vanguard IC) and 1 Kohler, 1 Kawasaki and 1 generac. All 6 of the B&S engines have been a constant pain. Yet I have had absolutely no problems with the other 3. I have had the Kohler since the mid 80s.

 

[Baucom]

I sure wouldn't want to replace a LC Kawasaki with a B&S Intek. I'd hunt for a good used engine, and if I couldn't find one then I'd see about getting one of those Kawasaki LC replacement engines or check my options to replace it with a Honda GX V-twin.

 

[kingofbytes]

Can anyone tell me the procedure to "hand crank" (without using electric start) the engine on the GX345? I can't find information on how to do that anywhere.

I am trying the seizedengine.com product and need to "hand crank" either by hand or using an air gun.

Thanks!

 

[KennyV]

Save some $, save some time and a LOT of aggravation. DON'T use the seizedengine.com product...
The problem you are having is from little or no oil... you have galled surfaces with metal transfered from one surface to the other.
Take the pan off and look at a bearing! look up into a cylinder and you will most likely see lots of scratches gouges... remember the "engine starting to make ungodly noises" comment you made in the first post. Look in the bottom of the pan you will see metal filings and shavings maybe even chunks...

seizedengine.com product is intended to unseize an engine that has rusted corroded during storage or long periods of non use. (BTW Hoppies#9 will do that job).

Also never use an impact wrench, air or electric to turn over any multi-cylinder engine. I find it hard to believe they are recommending that...
KennyV

 

[kingofbytes]

Hi and thanks for the advice.

However, since my engine is toast, I don't see what the problem would be to at least try the product ( I already have it at the house ). I'm in the process of taking things apart. I've got decent aptitude for doing this, but I've never done it before.

So any pics or advice on where I can start to hand crank this puppy?

Thanks!

 

[KennyV]

"advice on where I can start to hand crank this puppy?"

Remove the heads...
Place a large block of wood in the cylinder, (do this on the piston that is not all the way to the bottom.)...
Using a heavy hammer Drive the piston down into the cylinder.

If your leather gloves are cracked and dry use the seizedengine lube to soften them.

Use engine oil on top of the piston to lube the rings while you alternate between the two pistons with the wood block and small sledge hammer. KennyV.

 

[kingofbytes]

Thanks for the tip KennyV! I'll give it a shot.

 

[kingofbytes]

Hi guys!

I finally developed the courage to rip apart the engine (I didn't have anything to lose). It turns out that the "Plane Bearing" ( MIU12135 ) had fused or welded itself to the crankshaft and therefore stopped any movement on the crank.

The solution to the problem was to replace that bearing and the crankshaft (as there was no way to properly removed the welded bearing). And of course I needed a gasket kit. The part breakdown was as follows:

Plane Bearing - $6.60
Crankshaft - $305.00
Gasket Kit - $145.00
JD Maint Kit LG238 - $48.50

Once replaced, the engine started working like a champ. I couldn't have done it without the help of Jim, Chad, Cory and Matty at Prices Garage. Thanks guys!