Great Bend 651 Backhoe

[Gene :^)]

I have a 1999 NorTrac NT254 with Great Bend Loader and Backhoe.

While completely overloading the Backhoe trying to break a stump free (I know, I know), the bucket cylinder shaft bent 90 degrees. This is the cylinder that curls/crowds the bucket.

Today I called Northern Tool and was told that Great Bend has been bought out by Bush Hog. Northern Tool had a slightly different cylinder that "should work" for about $500. I wanted the exact cylinder so I called Bush Hog and was quite surprised to find out they want just under $1900 (yes, nineteen hundred) for a replacement cylinder.

So now I am looking into having a new 4140 chrome shaft machined and welded to fit my existing cylinder.

I will also need to source new seals. Any suggestions are welcome.


Thanks,

Gene :^)

PS: Photos of a previous stump, not the culprit that got me this time.

 

[Bob Rooks]

No wonder the Chinese "junk" breaks down.

I can't believe $1,900.00 for that cylinder. :confused2: You probably aren't going to find an exact fit anyway unless you buy OEM or have a rod fabbed.

Did you try Surplus Center - Hydraulic Cylinders Pumps Motors?

 

[Rich Waugh]

I'm with Bob - try Surplus Center or one of the other general hydraulic dealers and get a cylinder with the right diameter and length. You can always have the ends changed to whatever configuration you need in order to fit the hoe. I've changed a few of them myself and it isn't all that tough to do. Even if you had to buy a second cylinder to get the ends the total cost should be under $500, with the welding and cutting.

The most difficult part of the changeover is sometimes the hose fittings - if they have the OEM cylinder specially configured with the fitting nipples in unusual locations. Even that can be changed by a decent welding shop though. Again, I've done that before so a real welder could do it easily enough.

$1900 for that cylinder is worse than ridiculous!

Rich

 

[Diamondpilot]

I want to see a pic of the cylinder now...

I agree, find something and make it work.

Chris

 

[Car Doc]

Try these folks they build GB loaders its near where I live.

I cant speak for them they may not help you these parts may well be made in china and shipped here or there for assembly that seems to be whats going on with attachments here lately.

I hope they will help they may not but its worth a try they will need all the dimensions.

KMW Ltd
198 N US Hwy 281
Great Bend, Kansas 67530
620-793-6725

 

[Gene :^)]

I love my chinese "junk" tractor. The pulling power, traction w/4wd, and torque from the 3 cylinder diesel are tremendous. Everyone I have done work for is amazed at what the little tractor can do. I pull and push just about anything. I drive into and out of the tightest spots and the roughest terrain. I often use my tractor to "unstuck" my neighbors skid steer (those things are dangerous in the mud). I can drive right through several feet deep mud and 4 feet of fresh powder snow. I have NEVER EVER been stuck in this tractor. I have been close but I just use the backhoe or front end loader to help push and I always get out.

I have been reading posts on this site off and on for many years now, I think the people that dislike the Jinma are just people that are not mechanical and not able to troubleshoot and fix little items. Then those little problems seem larger than they really are since you have to bring the tractor to someone to fix it. Or they are people that don't operate it correctly. The power of these tractors is great, but use it wrong and you will find out that it is powerful enough to smash itself to bits. It is all about controlling the power and applying it to whatever you are working on, not reflecting the power back at the tractor. If that last sentence didn't make sense then you will probably not like any compact tractor.

I do all my own repairs but have never broken anything major. I have only had things come lose or get bent. I have replaced gaskets, a belt, and coolant hoses. A few batteries too (FYI: get yourself an Optima, they don't go dead when you let the tractor sit for months at a time, that is what was killing my regular batteries. They slowly discharge on their own and if they sit in a dead state, they stay dead.)

The best thing I ever did was tack weld my clutch arm to the pivot shaft so it quit coming loose, never had to adjust the clutch again and I am on the original clutch from 1999.

Anyhow, back to the task at hand...

The machinist at my work turned down a new shaft for me. I will put it together tonight and weld on the end tomorrow. I'll update on how it goes.

Pictured is the cylinder all apart. I had to cut the bent shaft to get it apart so ignore the cut section. In the picture is the new piece of 4140 shaft ready to be machined. Then a photo of the new shaft getting machined. And for fun, a photo of a different stump leaving the ground.

Gene :^)

 

[Gene :^)]

Forgot to mention: The cylinder is a bit of a strange one. It is a 14 inch stroke by 2 inch bore but only 20 inches eye to eye when closed.

Most cylinders are 12 or 16 inch stroke. Also, most cylinders larger than 12 inch stroke start at 22 inches or more eye to eye.

Ended up being best to just fix what I have so it fits perfectly and my hoses go right on. The paint matches too :^)

Gene :^)

 

[Gene :^)]

Ready for welding tomorrow...

 

[Bob Rooks]

(FYI: get yourself an Optima, they don't go dead when you let the tractor sit for months at a time, that is what was killing my regular batteries. They slowly discharge on their own and if they sit in a dead state, they stay dead.)
With all due respect sir, letting machinery sit idle for "months at a time" is very bad maintenance practice. A more responsible approach is to start and run for 1/2 hour each month during lay up.

The best thing I ever did was tack weld my clutch arm to the pivot shaft so it quit coming loose, never had to adjust the clutch again and I am on the original clutch from 1999.
And now the external pin is no longer the weak link, the shaft or the fork are.

Anyhow, back to the task at hand...

The machinist at my work turned down a new shaft for me. I will put it together tonight and weld on the end tomorrow.
I recommend threading and welding BEFORE assembling the rod, and chroming it.
I wish you succsess in your project.

12345

 

[Gene :^)]

Done!! Well almost done, I still gotta spray some black Rustoleum on the end and bolt up the pin retainers.

Thanks for the support.

Gene :^)