Gravel Driveway Questions

   / Gravel Driveway Questions #1  

cdhd2001

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2007
Messages
161
Location
texas
What kind of material do you guys suggest for gravel driveways?

I have been getting estimates for road base/ caliche and river rock. For a 12 yard truck delivered the prices range from $130 to $250 per trip.

I am building a 12 ft. wide by 200 ft. long driveway. I tentatively estimating 6" thickness.

Any recommendations?
 
   / Gravel Driveway Questions #2  
I'm certainly no expert on gravel driveways. I struggle with mine every year, and this year is no exception. HOWEVER, my struggles are attributed to one thing that wasn't put on the driveway. When my driveway was constructed, they didn't put down any textile fabric. Thus, my rock keeps on sinking. I put it on....it keeps disappearing on me.

My base was built up clay. It was compacted as it was laid down, but it still should have had the fabric laid out. I think they put down some 2" road crush and then topped it with 3/4" road crush. My last addition was recycled concrete crush. Nice mix of sizes and it appears to be locking together nicely. We'll see how long it lasts.

Good luck.
 
   / Gravel Driveway Questions #3  
Knight9, what materials are available in your area? Fabric is not a necessity. If the driveway is graded to drain well, put the extra money you would in fabric into extra stone. Most people beleive that by using fabric they can go thinner on the stone. This is not true. If I were to use fabric I would go heavier on the stone to protect the extra cost and time put into the fabric. If you want a drive that will hold up go at least 8 inches or more. As long as you keep the grade drained well it will hold up. As soon as you get any water the road will deteriorate.

Sincerely,
Dirt
 
   / Gravel Driveway Questions #4  
I have ~ 1/4 mile driveway and have used a lot of different materials. The best I have used was a couple loads of ground up asphalt. It spreads well, is not dusty, drains well, continues to "work" well w/ a blade and hasn't disappeared in nearly 5 years. But I can no longer find it for what I paid for the first batch (free) as most road contractors grind it up and recycle it for base.
Best I have come up with lately is washout from a local concrete company. It is a bit dusy (not as bad as limestone rock or straight gravel) but it blades well and "sets up" a little when rained on. If I wouldn't try to spread it too far (and too thin) it would last better as well.
I also do not have fabric under my drive. I took a 5020 JD and 12' disc and cut my ditches then started stacking up material to call a driveway. The washout doesn't seem to disappear as quickly as straight gravel. Like was stated before, if I take my time and put a crown on the drive so it will drain the material seems to stay longer.
The main reason we don't own a car (P/U's and SUV's only) is because I am responsible for drive maintenance. We nearly drug the bottom out of a Dodge Neon rental when my wife's SUV was in the shop.
 
   / Gravel Driveway Questions #5  
I have 4" of crushed concrete that makes up my driveway and everything else, I have no fabric and it is been there for five years and is fairly smooth, some day I will get one of them driveway maintainers and make it really smooth, I figure by the time I can afford one the driveway will need it.

Buying it by the truck or trailer load is expensive since it is only $7.00 a ton, that delivery charge is a killer...that's why I am half owner of a dump trailer.
 
   / Gravel Driveway Questions #6  
Just rember that gravel that has been crushed so there are many different fractured surface's as well as the proper fines to make a dense material will pack and hold up.

Straight river rock acts much the same as marbles.
 
   / Gravel Driveway Questions #7  
Egon said:
Just rember that gravel that has been crushed so there are many different fractured surface's as well as the proper fines to make a dense material will pack and hold up.

Straight river rock acts much the same as marbles.

I have been stuck in river rock before, I know exactly what you mean about marbles:)
 
   / Gravel Driveway Questions #8  
If you have mud and hydraulic "pumping" you need geotextile material. I agree with both Knight9 and dirtworksequip. Jay
 
   / Gravel Driveway Questions #9  
I know what you mean.

I had 9 tons of gravel delivered for my Dog Kennel. The gravel was like $70, and the delivery was $350!

-Larry

wushaw said:
I have 4" of crushed concrete that makes up my driveway and everything else, I have no fabric and it is been there for five years and is fairly smooth, some day I will get one of them driveway maintainers and make it really smooth, I figure by the time I can afford one the driveway will need it.

Buying it by the truck or trailer load is expensive since it is only $7.00 a ton, that delivery charge is a killer...that's why I am half owner of a dump trailer.
 
   / Gravel Driveway Questions #10  
Driveway and road builidng is very simple, but problems happen when good enough, or close enough is used to get it done sooner then it's ready. Water is the enemy and the only thing you realy need to worry about. Dig your ditches on either side of your driveway deep enough to move the water and most of all driveway problems are solved. Where problems occur is people don't dig those ditches deep enough.

Next is making sure your road is compacted. You cannot compact dry soil, or wet soil. It has to be at the right moisture to compact. Wet soil that is pumping, or moving around is totaly useless and nothing will fix this until the soild dries out. Covering it in fabric will just keep it wet longer. Dumping rock over it will just suck up the rock until it dries out.

Most contractors will dig out the wet areas and spread it out over the road to dry, then bring in soil of the right moisture content to fill the hole and compact it. This is done for all construction projects. Just watch sometime as equipmen digs out a hole in the ground, then comes back and fills it in. It looks like they are playing games, or wasting time, but it's critical to get rid of the wet soil and build up a good base.

The thickness of rock you use seems to be dependent on where people live. Snow and freezing conditions seem to require it to be thicker. Here in the South, four inches is the minimum with 6 inches being better. The idea is to have rock that will lock together and creat a solid mass. When this happens, it will not sink into the ground, or move. It breaks apart in big chunks if you ever have to take it apart. Crushed rock with sharp angles is needed for this to happen. It also has to have varios sizes all the way down to fines so that every void is filled when compacted.

River rock or any round, smooth rock will accomplish nothing. It's pretty, but worthless for road building. I've read where large rock in the four to six inch size is put down first, then built up a certain thickness, and then topped off with 4 to six inches of road base. I can't comment on this method as it's only something I've read about. I don't understand the reasoning for this and have never seen it done in either California or Texas.

Once you have the rock in place, it will compact rather quickly by just driving over it. At first, try to drive over it along different paths just to get the rock in the middle locked to gether with the rest of it.

Going 12 feet wide sounds real nice, but it's extremely wasteful. Is there a code that requres 12 feet in your area? Ten feet is more then enough for emergancy vehicles to drive on as the law is all vehicles on the road have to be under ten feet wide. I forget the exact width in inches, but 108 jumps into my brain, but I'm not sure on that. The tires on a vehicle are usualy around 6 feet on center, give or take a few inches. With a ten foot drive, you have 2 feet of material on either side to support the weight of the vehicle. That's plenty. 12 feet wide and you have allot of material that you are paying for that you do not need. Spend the extra money on thickness and not width.

Once you have the gravel down, the biggest mistake you can make is to drag a box blade over it to smooth it out. I know this is blasphomy to many here, but breaking off the top of your rock to smooth it out only weakens the overall integrity of the rock. The rock needs to have a minimum of 4 inches to lock together. Smoothing it out quickly thins out the thickness of the rock to a point of failure. This is when you start having trouble with it and it begins to crumble, develop pot holes and even hold water.

Add rock to fill in low areas or rought spots. Never cut down yoru existing rock. Thicker is always better.

Good luck,
Eddie
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2015 Ford Explorer AWD SUV (A42744)
2015 Ford Explorer...
2006 Club Car DS - CUSTOM 48V Luxury Golf Cart (A44789)
2006 Club Car DS -...
2007 John Deere 9570 STS Combine  Premium Cab  FarmTRAX Yield & Moisture  1,846 Sep Hours (A44789)
2007 John Deere...
2004 Case 621D Wheel Loader (A42203)
2004 Case 621D...
JCB MAST FORKLIFT (A45046)
JCB MAST FORKLIFT...
SAND BLASTER AND SUPPLIES (A45333)
SAND BLASTER AND...
 
Top