Loader Grapple Specs look good

   / Grapple Specs look good #1  

Dan Lamb

Silver Member
Joined
May 16, 2018
Messages
175
Location
MC Cloud Ca
Tractor
Branson 2400h TLB/ cab
New member here, I have been lokking at grapples and researching them for months and I think I finally found the perfect FIT for my 2400h with BH and cab , Everything Attachments just recently came out with a 50 inche single cylinder open bottom grapple with removeable tines on the bottom for 10 inche spacing or 5 inche spaceing with them installed. I looked at many that were good quality but just to heavy for my 1000 lb lift capasity . At 280 lbs I`m only giving up about 50 to 60 pounds , my bucket is approx 240 lbs. I have decided to go with a ddedecated 3rd function valve to operate it to keep all bucket controls working . This is my first tractor and hope Im on the right track , if anyone has any better ideas please comment . I have 2.5 acres in Northern Ca that has hundreds and hundreds of saplings that I mist remove to build house , thank u all , Nor CAL Dan
 
   / Grapple Specs look good #2  
Dan - I'm not familiar with that grapple but all reports about Everything Attachment implements indicates that they are good.

I think you are making a good choice. Welcome to TBN and have fun with all your saplings.
 
   / Grapple Specs look good #3  
I got a 60" dual lid Wicked for my 3725. It's so useful! I'd planned on putting it on when I need it but I find I'm leaving it attached and swapping to the bucket only when I need a bucket. It's well made. I had to get longer hoses since I'd spec'd them too short to match where I put the connectors, but that was my fault.

I'm currently using a fender mounted remote valve to operate it. I ran lines up to the loader where I made a bracket for connectors. I was planning on a true electric third function but I think my loader valve does not pass much fluid out the power beyond when I am moving the loader. If I'm right about that the third function would not move while the loader is going up or down or curling. I tested by operating the 3pt hitch while moving the loader- the 3pt does not move when the loader's moving. I'm not 100% sure my test was valid but even if it does pass whatever it's not using out the PB line instead of the tank line you'll be sharing the hydraulic pressure between two or three sets of cylinders.... and usually when you do that the set with the least resistance moves first.
 
   / Grapple Specs look good #4  
Dan Lamb,

Not speaking from firsthand experience but if you were planning on using the grapple/FEL to pull the saplings out I'd be a bit concerned.

What species of tree and what size saplings?

I'd be concerned about the ability of the grapple to grip the saplings and also the FEL's ability to weed them out roots and all.

On the other hand your backhoe should take any sapling out in short order.

Just a thought or two.
 
   / Grapple Specs look good
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I am usingmy hoe to pop them out of the ground root and all , I curl the bucket then When I know ITS lose I just return the dirt in the Hole and go to the Next one, I Also made up 4 - 5 cables 1/4 inch x 8 ft put eyelets on the ends with ferrels and USE them like chokers and pop them out , I am using this technique so I dont tear up the ground AS much because there is beautiful native grass all over, I am going to USE the grapple to move piles of brush and trees to burn pile or to my chipping pile , I USE chips on my road for dust control and ITS like driving on carpet, thanks for the heads- up Nor Cal Dan
 
   / Grapple Specs look good #6  
If you have native California bunch grasses instead of the invasive cheat grass that's everywhere in Ca you're very lucky. I'd preserve that too.

When I'm clearing I cut the stumps flush rather than pulling them out. It's less work for me and makes less of a mess. The small stumps don't leave a hole when they rot. I won't put them through the chipper as the dirt and rocks shorten blade life. We can't burn here so they'd have to go on my pile of stuff that I won't chip, and I'm trying to keep that small.... it's mostly poison oak and brush/trees that have too much PO in them to separate.
 
   / Grapple Specs look good #8  
I got the style with long tines on the bottom. I can grab a bunch of logs or rounds with it. Or pile them up on the lower part by hand then use the lids to hold them down. It'll hold more brush than the root rake. Nearly all my use is pulling or moving brush or moving logs or rounds. I think my style is not as useful for raking through the soil as the root rake style but I don't do much of that.
 
   / Grapple Specs look good #9  
Good point, eric. I am trying keep my grapple weight low for the BX. That overrides my desire for longer tines.
 
   / Grapple Specs look good
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Hey Bob, thanks for the heads up , since your a Ca guy you are probibly familier with the pine ,cedar and fir tree saplings I’m dealing with . The area is McCloud up right next to Mt Shasta Ca , I am so lucky to have dozens of 40 to 50 inch diameter trees , they are beautiful big trees but they sure do have hundreds of saplings , and your right the b_hoe is perfect.I have been cutting some at ground level where I know I wont be driving in the future but pulling the ones where I think I’ll be driving because I was told by a local friend when they Get old and hard they can go right through a tire, thanks Guys for your advise and input from a greenhorn tractor guy
 
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