Grapple Grapple/Root Rake for a 60 Hp Tractor

Andy4600 · Apr 27, 2015

I'm about to pull the trigger on a Grapple/Root Rake for my Ford 4600. The tractor is 52 Hp PTO and 60 HP engine. FEL is a FORD 735, with a new hydraulic pump. I am lloking at the following:

1) The Rake Shop Light Class Rake Grapple: www.TheRakeShop.com / Root Rakes Grapples Attachments & Skid Steers

I am looking at the 60" Model. I'm not sure of the weight, but am guessing about 630 lbs. The Rake Shop told me the weight of the 72" model was 730 lbs, so I am estimating based on that. Cost is in the $2500 range.

2) Unlimited Fabrications 63" Heavy Duty Root Grapple: Skid Steer loader Root Grapple Heavy Duty

Cost is $1630 plus shipping. Design doesn't look like it would dig in as good as the Rake Shop Grapple/Rake.

3) WildKat Grapples: http://www.wildkatattachments.com/grapple.html

Looking at the Double Cylinder E-Series (66", 525 lbs, $1099), the Extreme Root Rake (66", 785 lbs, $2099), or maybe the 48" Mini-E Series (48", 420 lbs, 999). Only considering the 48" due to some posts I have read on here.

I've never used a grapple before, so it is hard for me to conclude what is appropriate and what is "enough" or "too much" for my FEL. I'm not even sure what design will be best.

Grapple will be used for cleanup of brush, move slash piles to burn, and grub the occasional rotted out stump.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

HCJtractor · Apr 27, 2015

Andy4600 said:
I'm about to pull the trigger on a Grapple/Root Rake for my Ford 4600. The tractor is 52 Hp PTO and 60 HP engine. FEL is a FORD 735, with a new hydraulic pump. I am lloking at the following: 1) The Rake Shop Light Class Rake Grapple: www.TheRakeShop.com / Root Rakes Grapples Attachments & Skid Steers I am looking at the 60" Model. I'm not sure of the weight, but am guessing about 630 lbs. The Rake Shop told me the weight of the 72" model was 730 lbs, so I am estimating based on that. Cost is in the $2500 range. 2) Unlimited Fabrications 63" Heavy Duty Root Grapple: Skid Steer loader Root Grapple Heavy Duty Cost is $1630 plus shipping. Design doesn't look like it would dig in as good as the Rake Shop Grapple/Rake. 3) WildKat Grapples: http://www.wildkatattachments.com/grapple.html Looking at the Double Cylinder E-Series (66", 525 lbs, $1099), the Extreme Root Rake (66", 785 lbs, $2099), or maybe the 48" Mini-E Series (48", 420 lbs, 999). Only considering the 48" due to some posts I have read on here. I've never used a grapple before, so it is hard for me to conclude what is appropriate and what is "enough" or "too much" for my FEL. I'm not even sure what design will be best. Grapple will be used for cleanup of brush, move slash piles to burn, and grub the occasional rotted out stump. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Here's my opinion.
I don't like the first, the Rake Shop. Don't like the long unsupported tines. Would have a tendency to bend or get tree trunks wedged between them

The second looks ok

The third, definitely not the extreme root rake. Don't like that design at all. The Double cylinder E series looks nice, and the 60" Root Grapple you didn't list also worth considering. The mini is ok. Maybe a little light duty

that being said, the perfect grapple for me would be narrow (48" to 60" max), have one cylinder and upper thumb, and have tines made of 1/2 steel. The closest to that is the 60" a Root a Grapple at 640 pounds from Wildcat.

Or perhaps they can custom make one for you. When Markham was still in business, they did that for me. A narrower, but heavy duty one. But my tractor is a 70 horse and a little bigger than yours.

Andy4600 · Apr 28, 2015

HCJtractor said:
Here's my opinion.
I don't like the first, the Rake Shop. Don't like the long unsupported tines. Would have a tendency to bend or get tree trunks wedged between them

Interesting. I was considering the Rake Shop because of the long tines. I figured they would be better for stabbing into the slash piles, and better for digging/grubbing with.

HCJtractor said:
View attachment 422625

Does the single upper thumb, centered as it is get in the way...for visibility and watching what you are doing?

HCJtractor · Apr 28, 2015

If just picking up piles, the long tines should do fine. But I use mine a tremendous amount for knocking down trees, up rooting them and digging. I think the long tines would not work well for that. The bar that connects my tines across the front is what I push trees with, trees up to 7" or so. I think if I pushed with the long tines, the trunk would wedge between them or bend them. I use the curve of the tines to "roll" out the root balls by curling the cylinder.

As far as the single thumb, it really doesn't hurt your view too much. You really can't see the working edge of the grapple any way, just like you can't see the edge of your bucket when engaging the ground with a standard bucket. You kinda do this by feel. And mine is narrow enough to see around. But it does lessen the weight, lessens the complexity and works just fine. Now if I had a wider one, sure two would be better, but for my narrow grapple, one works just fine. You'll find the clamping function of the thumb is really very minor, as it just secures what you have picked up. It doesn't take much to do that.

I've picked up enough debris, limbs, trees to make a pile a mile high. This design of mine excels at that. Of course, most any grapple would work for that. I think uprooting and digging root balls is what separates the different design styles.

Andy4600 · Apr 28, 2015

I use mine a tremendous amount for knocking down trees, up rooting them and digging. I think the long tines would not work well for that. The bar that connects my tines across the front is what I push trees with, trees up to 7" or so. I think if I pushed with the long tines, the trunk would wedge between them or bend them. I use the curve of the tines to "roll" out the root balls by curling the cylinder.

The Rake Shop model has what appears to be a push plate on the top bar in between the two jaws for pushing trees, so I don't think that will be an issue...just a different method to push. I agree it would be a real pain though if you did happen to jam a tree between those teeth.

How does the model you use work for digging? Does the cross bar limit your depth? how good is it at getting at roots?

HCJtractor · Apr 28, 2015

Andy4600 said:
The Rake Shop model has what appears to be a push plate on the top bar in between the two jaws for pushing trees, so I don't think that will be an issue...just a different method to push. I agree it would be a real pain though if you did happen to jam a tree between those teeth. How does the model you use work for digging? Does the cross bar limit your depth? how good is it at getting at roots?

It works great. Of course by digging, I mean uprooting trees. I first try to push it over. If it resists, I go around it tearing out lateral roots. Then push it again. Of course, there's a limit to how big a tree it will work on. The limit seems more dependent on tractor weight, and the FEL lift capacity. Many times I'll lift my tractor off the ground to push the tines deep. But if the bite is too big, the FEL won't curl the root ball out. Many times I wish for increased FEL capacity.

txdon · Apr 28, 2015

HCJtractor said:
Here's my opinion.
I don't like the first, the Rake Shop. Don't like the long unsupported tines. Would have a tendency to bend or get tree trunks wedged between them

HCJ, the unsupported tines do not bend. I know I have tried. One tine does pick up the tractor. Only occasionally does a tree trunk get stuck in-between the tines and then a simple back drag will clear the tines. I like the long tines because I can dig deeper easier than the kind of grapple with the round cross bar blocking the dig - I have worked with both. I got the light duty 60" (I have a 72" FEL) and I like the size - any larger would not be a benefit if you are removing standing trees. If you are just removing top, already cut brush then a 72" is OK. To the Rakeshop's basic design I moved the tines in by adding an extra in their standard 60" and I also added the slotted backing. Pictures of my grapple have been on several threads here on TBN and I am not associated with them in any way. I am very satisfied with my grapple, it has done exactly what I expected it to do. I also like the fact that they will listen to you and build you a custom grapple.

IslandTractor · Apr 28, 2015

From my experience, tractor weight and loader lift/curl are more important considerations than horsepower when picking a grapple. Of course there is a linkage between all these factors but unless your tractor is extremely heavy or lifts more than 3000lbs to full height, you can get away with using a much lighter grapple than some of the ones in your original post.

My Dk40se weighs 4000lb dry. Add about 1200 for the loader and 1500 for the backhoe I use for ballast, so close to 7000lbs with fuel and operator. I'm in the ninth season now with a 300lb "light duty" 48" grapple. It has some battle scars but works as well today as when I took delivery. I use it aggressively and do a lot of clearing of trees and brush. So long as you push or lift with the load centered, you won't hurt the light duty grapple. A heavy duty grapple is also susceptible to damage if used incorrectly but will have lower net lift capacity.

For digging out stumps, narrow is better as it allows concentration of force. I have been very happy with my 48" and have never wished it was wider or heavier duty. I also have never wished for two lids.

Everything Attachments carries a selection of grapples both of their own design and from other manufacturer s. I'd look at their new ?60" single lid grapple.