Grading decision help

[Indygunworks]

I have a VERY VERY rough construction drive. I installed the drive shortly after getting my tractor and during that process is when I realized my 3pt hitch wasn't working correctly. I would have to stop and rev it WAY up to get the blade to react the way it should. I tilled about 4 inch's down and used the blade to "swipe" the dirt off. as a result I didn't get a hugely level cut.

The material I laid down for the base was recycled state spec material that was pulled up from a jobsite. Its #2 and #53 mix, w/ some dirt, and some rip rap. it was 10 bucks a ton delivered and I couldn't pass up the deal. That stuff is not easy to scoop w/ the FEL, so I assume it wont be very easy to work w/ the grader box or ripper shanks either.

Here are a few photo's of the material.









It might be hard to see, but there is definitely a high spot in the middle. its also very very wavy. average thickness is close to 4 inches, but there are a few spots closer to 6 or even 8, and several that are only 2 inch's thick.

Where the tire tracks meet the dirt to the side I could easily add at least 3 inch's of 53s (crusher run) and that will be pretty smooth and close to flush with the dirt which was the plan. I didn't expect the center to not settle like it has. Should I just leave it until construction is complete? Should I try to rip up just the middle and use the box to disperse it to the side? I sort of want to mess with the box, but it might be the first week of November before I get the parts AND have time. Maybe I should just wait until construction is complete and ask some of the heavy equip guys to drive on the higher spots to help compact it. Once I do top it and get it smooth what does the maintenance look like w/ the box?

 

[Gordon Gould]

I can only tell you what I would do from my own experience.
I would not knock down the high center. If you keep doing that you will be down to dirt in the center with no base there. If any thing I would add more base to the wheel channels and let get it packed by the heavy construction traffic. Maybe you can pull it in from the sides but don't go below the grass. In a perfect world you would have your road base packed and crowned before you apply the surface gravel. The surface gravel would go on in an even layer over the properly shaped base.
If you get it shaped for drainage with the base future maintenance should go easy.

 

[Indygunworks]

I shouldn't have ANY water issues. VERY well drained sandy soil, and a perfect and even 1 percent grade for the entire 350 feet of driveway.

Sounds like I need to leave it, or maybe top it w/ some crusher run and let the construction traffic pack it some more before I add the full thickness of the topcoat?

I was out there today while it was POURING rain and there was no puddling whatsoever.

 

[ENC]

I prefer my drives to be wide enough that I can run one track down the middle periodically. It helps prevent the "2 track" look and helps keep from ruining the crown. With what you have now I would leave what you have alone and add what I call 3/4 minus over the top.

 

[Indygunworks]

describe 3/4 minus over the top

 

[Rustyiron]

Probably 3/4" & smaller with fines (dust).

 

[bcp]

It wasn't until I started reading internet forums that I heard of numbered gravel. All my western experience is with gravel named according to the size screen it passes through.

One called "1 1/4 minus gravel" is everything that passes through a 1 1/4 inch screen, down to sand size. Gravel passed through one screen and caught by the next size would be named for the pass-through screen size, without the minus, such as "1 1/4 gravel."

Bruce

 

[/pine]

Sounds like I need to leave it, or maybe top it w/ some crusher run and let the construction traffic pack it some more before I add the full thickness of the topcoat?

Just curious of what your "topcoat" is??...pavement of some type?...personally I've never found a better topcoat than "crusher run"...but what we call crusher run may be something different...around here c.r. consists of (granite) gravel from about 1.5" all the way down to fine sand...it packs down almost like concrete...if it needs grooming a pass or two with a landscape rake is all that is required...especially if there are no storm water issues...

 

[Indygunworks]

Just curious of what your "topcoat" is??...pavement of some type?...personally I've never found a better topcoat than "crusher run"...but what we call crusher run may be something different...around here c.r. consists of (granite) gravel from about 1.5" all the way down to fine sand...it packs down almost like concrete...if it needs grooming a pass or two with a landscape rake is all that is required...especially if there are no storm water issues...

topcoat is the easily graded and maintained top of the drive... made of finer gravel... that makes driving on it smooth. My dad uses slag from a steel plant, but that's to far away, but MAN is it smooth and looks good. Around here its 53's (the numbered system is for state spec material) probably equivalent to 3/4 minus and includes lots of the "dust" that helps bind everything together Its definitely not granite though. not much of that round here.

 

[ENC]

Probably 3/4" & smaller with fines (dust).

Yep this and other posts covered it. Sets up really hard. Of course not Granite here. Around here any crushed stone we buy is limestone. People also buy creek gravel because it is cheaper. I kind of feel like you get what you pay for and have to spend a lot more time working it and it needs work more often.