Rake Got a Landscape Rake - Advice on Angle

SteveH_CT · Oct 8, 2004

Hi Folks - I just bought a Woods 72" landscape rake. When you folks are using yours do you typically use it at an angle or straight? I plan to try it on different settings, but I'd like to learn from your experiences as well.

One more question - Do you apply much downward pressure to get it to bite in, or just let it's weight do the work for you?

Right now I plan to pull out the land I've been working on and try to rid it of a lot of the larger debris that I've left behind. I'm hoping that in the process it will smooth out some of the bumps and dips that I've left behind.

Thanks All!

rdln · Oct 8, 2004

For what you want to do first, My rake would work best set angled at the 2nd notch and work in a circle starting from outside so debris in windrowed toward the middle. The 0degree setting is good for covering dozer tracks or nocking down the hill that will result after you handpicked the debris from what you just windrowed

SteveH_CT · Oct 8, 2004

Thanks for the advice Steve - See, I never thought of going around in a circle, I was going to make rows of debris, circular sounds like a smart idea. It's amazing the little bits of wisdom we get here! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

MrJoe · Oct 8, 2004

Hi Steve: Who did you get the rake from and how much? I am in the market and comparing /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Thanks, Joe

SteveH_CT · Oct 8, 2004

It got it at the Deere dealer in Colchester - I don't have the model info here with me. It's nothing real special, but looks solidly made. It has a stand to park it on when it's just hanging around. only one thing wrong with it... it isn't green and it isn't yellow... just doesn't match /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.

I paid $525 including tax and delivery. There is a place in Branford, or North Branford that sells stuff pretty reasonably priced. They may advertise on here, and I also think they list on Ebay.

Golfgar4 · Oct 8, 2004

( only one thing wrong with it... it isn't green and it isn't yellow... just doesn't match )

/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

SteveH_CT · Oct 8, 2004

LoL I'm embarassed to say that I already considered painting it Gary... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Golfgar4 · Oct 8, 2004

Why would you be embarrased?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

If I had a JD tractor....heck, if I had ANY tractor /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif, I'd want my attachments to look good and be color coordinated! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Henro · Oct 9, 2004

One more question - Do you apply much downward pressure to get it to bite in, or just let it's weight do the work for you?


Not sure how one would apply downward pressure on a cut 3PH, as they usually float and only have lift.

Side question. Do you have gage wheels for the rake? I put off spending the money for gage wheels, but after getting a set I am really happy with them and feel they make the rake a much better tool.

I use mine angled or straight, it all depends. Without gage wheels it is a lot harder to smooth things out, as the rake on its own just follows the ground contour. Not that the wheels make all that much difference, but they do make some difference.

I am really glad I got the gage wheels and would not trade them back for the money I paid for them. Just a thought for consideration if you have not bought them yet... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

SteveH_CT · Oct 9, 2004

I thought about wheels Henro - Right now the land I need to rake is fairly rough - I'll see how it goes without them.

Good point on downward pressure, I didn't realize you couldn't use the hydraulics to push down... more inexperience on my part.

Thanks All.

Jim_Fisher · Oct 9, 2004

Steve,

( One more question - Do you apply much downward pressure to get it to bite in, or just let it's weight do the work for you? )

On my Befco rake, I control how aggressively the rake digs in by adjusting the top link. The more that I lengthen the top link the more the teeth dig in.

gcrabb · Oct 9, 2004

Thanks for the comment on the wheels, I have pondering purchasing them for about a year.

I have KK 84" landscape rake.

Has anyone given any consideration to adding hydraulics to adjust the angle?

Doesn't seem like it would take much time with a welder and a couple pieces of metal plus the ram.

Greg

Freds · Oct 9, 2004

The guage wheels will help keep you from grabbing too much stuff as you can set the tines slightly above the ground and put the 3pt in float. You will find that once you start grabbing debris and stuff that a lot of dirt will get dragged along, also. Setting the rake at an angle will help some of it spill back out, but you will still have to drop your load every once in a while and then go back, not lower the rake as much and try to pull the debris away from the dirt you want to stay.
I would work a smaller area, move onto another area and then blend the two together.

Boiler74 · Oct 9, 2004

If you're tryingt pull out limbs, sticks, etc. you might want to take off every other tine. I do that when cleaning up after taking down trees, etc. and it works well. Doesn't clog up as much.

Also, be careful if you're pulling out long branches/sticks. I had one catch up in the rake and jamb under the tractor, breaking a barb connector for a breather tube. Also ripped apart a wiring harness. They like to jump up at you.

My experience - hope it helps.

bandit67 · Oct 15, 2004

I decided to get the rake with no wheels to start too. That was 2 months ago, and now I'm getting ready to buy the gauge wheels. It's too much of a pain to try to keep the rake skimming along especially if you're trying to level uneven areas without the wheels. My only previous raking experience was the small York rakes with wheels that drag behind a garden tractor years ago. I guess I forgot how much I used the wheels while raking (not just transporting) on that rake.

So, I'm buying a set for my 3ph rake.

SteveH_CT · Oct 15, 2004

Thanks for the advice - like you I'll give it a go without the wheels - and like you I'll probably end up getting them /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif. I looked at your pics - very cool looking tractor!

nick37 · Oct 22, 2004

With my Land Pride rake with gauge wheels that roll behind the tines, I find that the top-link adjustment is just the opposite of the Befco rake post. I have to shorten the top-link to get a more aggressive bite. I could adjust the wheel heights, but that's so much easier to do with 3 hands, so if I need different cuts for the same job, I use the toplink. For example when putting in new lawn, I used the shortened top-link inward angle for the rough stuff early and extended the top-link for those last passes before seeding.

Junkman · Oct 23, 2004

( Has anyone given any consideration to adding hydraulics to adjust the angle?

Doesn't seem like it would take much time with a welder and a couple pieces of metal plus the ram.

Greg )

I have considered it many times, but just haven't come up with the correct cylinder to do it and the time to make it happen. Too many other things keeping me busy. Here is a picture of one that I grabbed off a post a long time ago. Sometimes it is the simple things that take the longest to accomplish..... like cleaning the garage.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Gary_in_Indiana · Oct 23, 2004

'I'd want my attachments to look good and be color coordinated!" 

So my green and yellow tractor with the gray hydraulic cylinders, red quick hitch and rusty gold implement wouldn't be right up your alley, then? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif