Gorilla Glue

[czechsonofagun]

I just can't help myself not to runt. I still need to find an application, in which the gorilla glue would not fail.
Glued small wooden ball to the chair - it is loose again, glued foam pad in a bow quiver - yesterday it pulled out with an arrow. I always follow the procedure they suggest, but as of now, I think gorilla glue is more of a marketing than a good product.

Going back to epoxy

 

[randy41]

I also am less than satisfied with gorilla glue. I used some to assemble bee hive frames and it hasn't held very well. And its expensive stuff. I am using titebond 3 for wood glueing now.

 

[kenmac]

I am using titebond 3 for wood glueing now.

I have found that plain o' elmers wood glue works great on wood

 

[Lasgambler]

I have tried the Gorilla glue on diff. projects too, and for the price I did not feel it was worth it. I like Titebond for interior projects.
I keep a supply of PL on hand in the small and large caulk tubes to use in almost all applications that I feel I need to glue. I am sold on PL.
Terry

 

[GeneD14]

I have used several bottles of Gorilla Glue on many projects and will not buy another bottle because:
Elmers makes an equivelent water activated glue at a fraction of the price. Also for wood to wood joints TiteBond makes a professional wood glue that is easier to use and is stronger, cheaper, and cleans up with water.

 

[rtdiggr]

I agree with you guys i am not impressed with Gorilla glue. i think there marketing is great. [getting us to buy a product that doesn't work so well]


Shane

 

[ToadHill]

I found one good thing about Gorilla Glue. I carve for a hobby and when I carve something with a water theme, You can use the overflow Gorilla glue to simulate the foam on the water. That's all I've ever found it useful for.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

my neighbor swears by gorilla glue........it seems to work well in the applications he has used it......

however, those same applications (wood to wood) a good old yellow glue with some clamping pressure would perform just as well, if not better...

i've never bought any.....

remember, clamping pressure is the key..........you can glue two long grain, to long grain boards together with clamping pressure......when you try to break it, most of the seam that breaks and cracks is always the wood beside the joint, not the actual joint......

if you don't clamp it, you can usually snap it off and it will break in the glue seam....

i've never really checked in to the reason why......probably because it presses the glue in to the grain which essentially makes the glue joint much wider...

 

[EddieWalker]

I haven't had any problems with Gorilla Glue, but don't use it very often either. Usually I buy a small bottle and it sits around until it hardens on me. I think I've bought three bottles of it in my lifetime. I thought it worked great for those times that I needed the extra strength, but to be honest, Titebond and Elmers has also worked out well for me and probably would have done just as good a job as the Gorilla Glue did.

I did buy a roll of Gorilla Tape and was very disappointed in it. For the extra money, I was hoping for more sticking ability. It sticks to itself on the roll something terrible and is very difficult to get off. Getting it to stick to plastic was less then satisfactory. I really needed it for it's color more then it's strength, but though it would be better then just black electricians tape. It wasn't the black electricians tape went over it to keep it in place.

I won't buy it again.

Eddie

 

[czechsonofagun]

TiteBond or similar dispersing glue is my choice for wood application. With proper clamping, the adhesion strength is greater than that of wood.

I keep Gorilla around for odd applications, like plastic to metal or when there is a gap to fill in the wood connection, but it is not worth the money and it definitely does not live to the advertisement.

There was time I seriously considering getting Gorilla tape - well, thanks for the warning