Good deal on Jinma 304?

[Bama67]

Hello guys, I am looking at a 2006 Jinma 304 with 60 hours, 6ft hawse bushog, and box blade. The tractor looks just like new. He said it has been excellent and had to do nothing to it. He says he just doesn't ever use it. I got him down to 5,500 for everything. Is this a pretty good deal for this tractor? Best I can tell to buy all this new would be close to 10,000. Thanks fellas.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Sounds like a good deal. Around here a 304 goes for about $7000-$8000, the bush hog would be about $1000, and the blade about $500.

If it looks good and you want it I would go for it. Just make sure you take it for a test drive and check it out. Also check the reverse, many say its just too fast on the 300 series Jinma.

Chris

 

[Bama67]

Thanks for the info, I will definately check it out really well. In the pics he sent me the machine is pretty flawless. He said he only used it to bushog about once a month. He just bought a bigger tractor, said he needed a tax write-off. I am going to go look at it saturday. I have pretty much made up my mind.

 

[Flyhiflylo]

Is that with loader?

 

[3RRL]

Sounds like a good deal to me too, if everything is working alright. I'd like to know if it has a loader on it too?
I wouldn't worry too much about a fast reverse, as I understand it, most of them are like that. I know Larry's and Loretta's are like that. You can use the low range if you need to go slow.

 

[Bama67]

Nah, I wish. The tractor doesn't have a loader. That WOULD be a great bargain. But even without the loader; I have priced that same tractor new and found a couple used and they aren't close to that. Without the implements the price of the tractor is roughly $4,000 or so. I feel like that is pretty darn good.

 

[greg_g]

Hello guys, I am looking at a 2006 Jinma 304 with 60 hours,

Part of the reason the price looks inviting, is the guy may not have performed the 50 hour service. That's major. Consider what it would cost you in materials and labor to drain/flush/refill cooling system, engine oil, injector oil, front diff, shuttle or creeper, transmission & rear diff, hydraulics, change air/oil/fuel/hydraulic filters and screens. Then go over every inch of the tractor tightening every nut/bolt/screw on the thing. Then re-torque the head gasket. Then adjust the valve lash. Then adjust the clutch and brakes.

If all that's been done for you - THEN I'd say it may be a good price.

//greg//

 

[Bama67]

I don't know if has been done or not. I will find out, but that really is not of much concern to me.

And if done it "might" be a good deal. Is there somewhere in the US that are giving these things away that I am unaware about?

 

[greg_g]

And if done it "might" be a good deal. Is there somewhere in the US that are giving these things away that I am unaware about?

That's not the point. Even if the 50 hour maintenance was meticulously performed and recorded, you still don't know the mechanical condition. You're considering that to be a good price - based upon an as yet unproved assumption that it's actually in good working condition. A lot can go wrong in the 60 hours of neglect.

There's an equal chance that it's a perfectly legitimate sale. I'm just providing a counterpoint for you to consider before committing.

//greg//

 

[GuglioLS]

Bama,

If it's working and nothing wrong then that is an excellent price. If you don't buy it, depending on how far away it is, I certainly would consider it.

Changing fluid and filters is no biggie, I would not take anyone's word as to what they did or did not do to it. IMHO - I would change, check and adjust everything mentioned just to be on the safe side.

Where are you located? The price of tractors are greatly affected by how far it's shipped from the port of entry and as mentioned how well it was put together and serviced. Shipping costs are also a factor in the ultimate final price of a tractor. A tractor close to a port would generally be lower cost than one shipped to the heart land.

The reverse gear speed in High range - HaHaHa yea that's got my name written all over it. It's my pet peeve of the 300 series Jinma's. I have a 354 but have learned to use low range, if you ever want a white knuckle ride, just shift to high range, put it in reverse, rev the engine, slip the clutch, then rocket sled back-wards into the barn or through the other side

Oh and that 304 can be turned into a 354 by backing out the throttle stop on the injector to get 300 more RPM's. A 354 is a 304 that's set to top out at 2300 RPM's instead of 2000 RPM's. A 304 is a de-tuned 354. (IMHO)

Oh and you will probably have to perform the t-stat fix to get the engine up to operating temperature. Here is the link to that - T-stat FIX

Larry