gifs MT125 Tractor modifications

[gif1]

Late August I purchased a MT125 w/ FEL, MMM, and Backhoe.

But like most things I own I feel the need to upgrade/modify them.


I will start with a simple Backhoe dolly. I have to give credit to BXpanded, I thought this was a great idea.

I measured for my pivot point and built a light weight but strong dolly with swivel wheels at all 4 corners for easy mobility.

Frame is a combination of 1x1 and 2x2 14 Gauge box steel.

 

[gif1]

So taking off a rear wheel to install the 3pt hitch is just a poor and lazy design IMO. Almost like it was an after thought...

Issue: You can not install the lower link pin through the tractor frame, backhoe support frame and the lower links without removing one rear wheel.

This is was my solution.

First i cut the 7/8" lower link pin in half. This allows you in install one side at a time and slide it through each side of the frame until it stops against the tire.
Then i measured the gap between the pins (approx 6") Next, I used a piece of 1.25" OD x .875" ID DOM tube cut to just fit in between the pins gap.
I then pushed the pins into the tube until they touched, marked where i wanted my lynch pins and drilled cross through holes.

I cut the stabilizers free from the factory supplied DOM tube spacers. I used the DOM cut offs for my new spacers. One is a touch shorter to allow the center DOM "bridge" tube to slip into place.

I made up a set of stabilizer link mount tabs and welded them on. The stabilizers attach with a lynch pin now too.

Result: No tools required to install the 3PT lower link pin. No need to remove a rear wheel.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

So taking off a rear wheel to install the 3pt hitch is just a poor and lazy design IMO. Almost like it was an after thought...

Issue: You can not install the lower link pin through the tractor frame, backhoe support frame and the lower links without removing one rear wheel.

This is was my solution.

First i cut the 7/8" lower link pin in half. This allows you in install one side at a time and slide it through each side of the frame until it stops against the tire.
Then i measured the gap between the pins (approx 6") Next, I used a piece of 1.25" OD x .875" ID DOM tube cut to just fit in between the pins gap.
I then pushed the pins into the tube until they touched, marked where i wanted my lynch pins and drilled cross through holes.

I cut the stabilizers free from the factory supplied DOM tube spacers. I used the DOM cut offs for my new spacers. One is a touch shorter to allow the center DOM "bridge" tube to slip into place.

I made up a set of stabilizer link mount tabs and welded them on. The stabilizers attach with a lynch pin now too.

Result: No tools required to install the 3PT lower link pin. No need to remove a rear wheel.

This is an awesome fix! How hard was drilling the stock shaft? I have a 12 speed drill press, not industrial /commercial, just an old craftsman one.

 

[tomplum]

Looks like you've been around the block once or twice. Looks good. Shop too, and so very clean. :thumbsup:

 

[mslisaj]

Very nice job!! Now while I am waiting for my tractor to be delivered I have been thinking of a way to solve this problem too. Something similar but with out the tractor I can't do it of course but between all the creative folks here this problem will be solved. I have enough machine tools and welders that I'm really anxious to try my idea and share it also. Nice job for sure!! :drink:

Yep, we can't leave our equipment alone.

 

[rider7767]

Nice job on the Backhoe cart and 3pt Hitch. It looks like the center shaft on the 3pt hitch will have to rotate with the lift arms due to the two pins on the center collar. Do you foresee that being a problem with with a heavy load? The harder the load on the 3pt hitch arms, the more pressure on the pin holes through the tractor frame. I would love to see a video of this working with like a bush hog on lifting up and down. Your fix is much easier to do for many people than mine who don't have access to a lathe. Video, video, video:thumbsup:

 

[gif1]

This is an awesome fix! How hard was drilling the stock shaft? I have a 12 speed drill press, not industrial /commercial, just an old craftsman one.

It does have some case hardening. I did it on my mill, but i would think a drill press would work just fine. In fact i did my final hole clearance with a cordless drill.

 

[gif1]

Another mod i did was to my bucket.
Moving objects larger than what will fit in the bucket usually means bolting on forks.

I did not like the idea bolting them on and off, because no matter the situation you would undoubtedly need the other setup.

My solution:
I welded some 3/8" plate to the side of the bucket. Drilled a 7/8" hole. Bent up some 1.25" X .188 wall DOM tube. Installed with a 7/8" Grade 8 bolt and locking nut.

The idea is that you can flip them up out of the way when you need the cutting edge of the bucket. Flipped down, they stick out 12" and rest on the bottom of the bucket.
I can set the amount of resistance in which they move by the locking nut.

The result: I can flip down the "forks" and get under and move things like logs, planks, posts, ladders... When not needed i flip them up out of the way.

 

[rider7767]

Another mod i did was to my bucket.
Moving objects larger than what will fit in the bucket usually means bolting on forks.

I did not like the idea bolting them on and off, because no matter the situation you would undoubtedly need the other setup.

My solution:
I welded some 3/8" plate to the side of the bucket. Drilled a 7/8" hole. Bent up some 1.25" X .188 wall DOM tube. Installed with a 7/8" Grade 8 bolt and locking nut.

The idea is that you can flip them up out of the way when you need the cutting edge of the bucket. Flipped down, the stick out 12" and rest on the bottom of the bucket.
I can set the amount of resistance in which they move by the locking nut.

The result: I can flip down the "forks" and get under and move things like logs, planks, posts, ladders... When not needed i flip them up out of the way.

Nice looking welds where you beefed up the outside of your buckets. You are a real welder. I melt stuff together.:thumbsup:

 

[gif1]

I wanted a thumb for the backhoe. All the options i found were either bolt on or weld on.
Bolt on/off sounded like a lot of work. Weld on sounded permanent.

I really didn't find anything that i liked.
Best option i found was a weld it yourself kit.
DIY 24" Weld On Backhoe Thumb Hoe Clamp .5" Steel Plate Assembly CNC Plasma Cut
You cant buy the raw steel for the price of this kit.
This gave me a head start over starting from scratch and the best option to modify it to work for my application.
A little google work and i found it for $114 shipped!
Once in my hands I got out the plasma cutter and cut down the thumb and modified the teeth to a size that best fit the 12" bucket i have.
I also added some more holes and tabs for better packaging when in the "storage" mode.
But the main feature i added is that it uses pins to attach to the dipper stick of the backhoe.
To accomplish this i had to figure out the packaging that allowed the full range of motion and did not take away from the main functionality of the backhoe, digging.
I had to drill and sleeve holes in the dipper stick for the pins to pass through. Its a little unnerving to put a hole saw to fresh paint.
Once the thumb was all welded up i put it on the mill and machined it for clearance to give it a nice fit on the dipper stick.

Result: The thumb has a pretty good range of adjustment and can be put into a storage position that does not affect the backhoe as a digger or I can remove it by pulling two pins.