Getting my yard back

   / Getting my yard back #1  

Freds

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
1,554
Location
NW PA
Tractor
Kubota L3130HST & ZD326s
The long spell without rain really wiped out my yard over the summer and it doesn't look like it's going to come back without some help. It's about 3 acres and there is as much burned out brown, often right down to the dirt, as there is green.
I spoke with a landscaper a month ago and I also wanted some feedback from the group.

I have already done phase-1. I was told to put a straight weed killer down as that was really the only thing thriving and multiplying. I bought some Trimec from the local co-op and sprayed it on a few weeks ago. It killed a lot of the weeds, not as many as I was led to believe, but a lot.

The next thing I was told to do is spread some fertilizer. I was going to do that today and let the rain we are expecting soak it into the ground.

Then I was told to spread some grass seed in the fall. Is this what is called "overseeding"?
I was thinking of dragging my landscape rake tines just enough to scar up the ground before spreading the seed... do you think this will do any good? Maybe run an aerator over it, too?

I am looking for any other suggestions or feedback as to whether this sounds like it would work without investing, or wasting, any more time or money. I am trying to get by without tilling up and reseeding the whole thing, but the whole thing is in bad shape.

Thanks for any help!
 
   / Getting my yard back #2  
Mine is very much like yours. I've never seen it so brown all over. I looked into overseeding and plan to do it soon after labor day. They recommend you get your soil tested 1st. Sounded reasonable. Here are a few other notes I found at the savvygardner.com web site:

Getting Started - Prepare the Soil
Mow the area to 1½ inches to reduce competition from established grasses. Short mowing helps prevent the seed from lodging in tall grass and lets light reach the new seedlings. Use a grass catcher on the mower or sweep up excess clippings. Do not scalp off all the existing turf - some is needed to protect the germinating seed from wind, hot sun, and heavy rain.

Core Aerate the area, punching at least 20 to 40 holes/ft2 with the largest tines possible. This will increase the seed-soil contact and improve germination and establishment rate. You're not likely to over do it, so make several passes over the lawn. Aerators can be rented from many hardware stores or the whole process can be done by a professional lawn care company.

----end of savvygardner advise

I've never cut grass at 1 1/2 inches. I'm cutting at 3 1/2"s now. I'm a bit nervous about doing that ...but to get the new seed into the ground, you do what you have to do to get the job done right.

Good luck with yours! I'm not that fond of mowing, but I hate the brown stuff.
 
   / Getting my yard back #3  
Gosh darn -- I really disagree with the Landscaper. If your grass is brown or tan - it is dormant. The last thing I would do is spray weed killer OR fertilize it. Fertilizing it in a dormant state is like poisoning it.

I WOULD overseed it and aerate it. That's it, except forgetting about it until it comes back.
 
   / Getting my yard back
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for the replies.
Here's some pics of my "dormant" grass.
I already bought the fertilizer earlier today and as you can see, it certainly doesn't seem like it could do any worse to apply it.
 

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   / Getting my yard back
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   / Getting my yard back #7  
Hi Freds,

Took a look at your pix. I do a lot of turf repair in south central PA. I've seen this situation a lot this year.

There are several options available, including paying a bunch for a professional re-turfing.

However, If you are willing to accept a basic lawn as opposed to a luxury lawn, these things might work;

Looking at your soil under the grass it is obviously too dry to do anything. I don't believe your weed killer application hurt you. The application of fertilizer right now is questionable.

As we enter a season of cooler temps you can make a big difference for next season.

Once your soil gets some moisture in it, not soaked, it is time to start. Mow as low as you can, remove the clippings if you can and aerate with a hollow core unit. Don't rake up the small "turds" of soil leave them where they fall.

Rent an overseeder, I tend to favor the BluBird models, and overseed the area. Since your in PA I would recommend some of the PENN seed with a mix of Per-Rye, Fescue and Ken. Blue. Make sure you check the label for "weed seed" content, obviously the lower the better. Some people will tell you to mix your seed and starter fert. in the hopper at the same time, I don't do this I apply my start fert. separately after overseeding. I tend to use the cheaper brands of starter fert. they seem to work just as well as the expensive brands, at least as a starter application.

Of course, whatever you do, don't apply a winterizer or weed and feed for at least 2-3 months, which means you probably won't get one on this season. However, next season you might want to consider a 3 or 4 step program.

One last thing, looking at some of your area make sure you check for grub damage, it looks to me like there might be some grub activity there.
Good luck
 
   / Getting my yard back #8  
Looks more dormant than dead to me. You've gotten some good advice on overseeding here. Find a good supplier for the seed - they should help you pick a blend for your soil & sun conditions. A soil test is very important - you may want to do a few different ones if the lawn looks different in the various areas of your yard. Lay off the fert 'till the rain comes.

Some good reading on lawn care - Cornell Lawn Website

cutting the lawn high will allow for root growth - better ability to withstand drought. You should cut at 3" minimum - 3.5 - 4" is preffered for cool season grasses.
 
   / Getting my yard back
  • Thread Starter
#9  
We are expecting a lot of rain tonight and for the next few days, so I was going to get the fertilizer on this afternoon so it can dissolve and soak into the ground.

I checked a couple dead looking areas for grubs and didn't see a living soul in the sections of sod I was lifting up and looking at.

I appreciate all the help and hopefully next year it looks a little different.
 
   / Getting my yard back
  • Thread Starter
#10  
FWIW, in case anyone else is trying to get some green back in their yard...

I just got off the phone with what seemed like another very knowledgeable guy. He works at a seed and stuff co. in the city I live by, Nickel Plate Mills it's called. It was the third call I made this morning and the only place that would order me in the 550 lbs of grass seed I need.
Besides the weed killer, fertilizer, aerating (which I am doing now after the rains and also plan on renting a core aerator right before I plant), he mentioned dragging bed springs or very shallow set scarifiers (my neighbor has these /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif) to help break up the hardpan. The bed springs will also pull a lot of the weeds up I was told.
I'm going with the "B" mix since it is around $0.50/lb cheaper. I've seen some of the areas that have used this mix and they look good. The sales guy also told me that is what he used. I can't believe the price of grass seed to begin with /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I plan on planting in a couple weeks and I guess we'll see what happens a couple weeks after that.
 

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