Gettig brake shoes relined

[Hooked_on_HP]

I need to replace the brakes on my 1900. NH wants $500+ for new shoes.I was thinking about getting my shoes relined. There is a place about 40 miles from me that relines brake shoes for trucks. Is there anything special about these shoes that would prevent them from being relined.
Bill

 

[JFS2295]

If your 1900 is like my 1710 then the linings are bonded to the shoes. However, if the shop cannot do bonding, the shoes could be drilled for rivets.

My background was as the manager of R&D vehicle testing for one of the largest friction material suppliers, so you know I've got a clue.

First, the friction material used on these tractors was asbestos reinforced. Please keep that in mind when working one them and understand the health risks that are associated.

My experience is that the issue with these shoes is what is known as rust jacking. Rust forms between the shoes and lining, and the lining debonds. Happens in the auto and truck field as well. My first pair of shoes that did this were replaced with new from the dealer. After my second pair debonded, I really did not want to go though this expense again. I bought flexible rolled lining from McMaster.com of the same thickness and width. After abrading the shoe's platforms down to bare metal I used JB Weld to epoxy bond the linings to the shoes. This has worked very well for a few years now but there is a fair amount of wear and softness to the pedal initially since the ends of the shoes were not profile ground to the drum diameter. Once that contact area wore down and full contact was made between the lining and drum, I have had good pedal(s).

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

How thich should the lining be. I havent seen a new set so I have nothing to go by.
Bill

 

[JFS2295]

Not sure what a 1900 takes. For my 1710 I used:

6175K114 2 Ft. Nonmetallic Molded Brake And Clutch Lining, 3/16" Thick, 1-3/4" Width

 

[RickB]

I need to replace the brakes on my 1900. NH wants $500+ for new shoes.I was thinking about getting my shoes relined. There is a place about 40 miles from me that relines brake shoes for trucks. Is there anything special about these shoes that would prevent them from being relined.
Bill

Nothing at all prevents you from doing that. We often do it for our customers, as we have a brake and spring shop nearby. The cost savings are substantial.

 

[JFS2295]

I knew it was just a matter of time, so now my other side factory shoes have come apart.

For better or worse (putting on the flame suit), I posted the work over on my Webshots account.

Tractor Brake Reline pictures from rides photos on webshots

Took me about 15 minutes to pull the assembly and about 45 minutes to do the work. Another 15 minutes the following day to reassemble.

 

[bg71361]

How thich should the lining be. I havent seen a new set so I have nothing to go by.
Bill

Bill did you ever figure what you needed for your 1900? I have a 1910 and I would like to do my own also since the NH parts cost is crazy.
Thanks,
Bill

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I found some on ebay that were $215 for 4 new shoes. I havent bought them yet. I probably will buy them when I get a chance to tear it apart.They also fit the 1910.
Bill

 

[bg71361]

I saw those too, man that is still expensive. When you get yours can you measure the width and thickness? I would really appreciate it, I want to give the relining a try.
thanks!

 

[JFS2295]

Keep in mind guys what I am trying is the non-metallic version. There also is a semi-metallic. The are what we'd classify as "rolled" materials, which is what keeps them flexible. The OE material was a heat and pressure cured lining, very stiff. At least for my tractor, the production lining that came on the vehicle was asbestos, so it was a non-metallic, why I chose it.

For my tractor about 3ft of the lining was enough for both sides. So along with the epoxie, 3 hose clamps and shipping, I think I spent about $25.

Make sure you let the epoxie cure for the time it states on the packaging. I used the slower cure 4-6 hrs with an overnight cure. The 5 min or short cure materials may not give you enough time to set the compression clamps. Long cure epoxies are also better at cross-linking, giving you more strength. And a warning. If you never have worked with epoxie before, one of the cure accelerators is bisphenol A. Some people are allergic to BA and develop a skin rash like poison ivy.

And tractors built before the mid to late 80's used asbestos linings from Japan.