GC2310 Hydraulics testing. Plug the transmission fittings?

johng650 · Jul 26, 2023

Hi Everyone, I'm the new owner of a very rust GC2310 TLB. I bought it for a cheap $500 mostly just so I could use the backhoe arm and hydraulics to build a small tow behind backhoe. But if the tractor can be made to run without spending too much $$ I'd rather just use the platform as it was intended.

I'm documenting the process on my YouTube Channel, if you want to follow along, the latest is here

I'm at the next step in verifying operation of the tractor, checking out the hydraulics and transmission. My plan is to remove all the back sheet metal, the seat, maybe the fuel tank and expose the the backhoe/loader hydraulics. All the hydraulic hoses are trash, rusty balls of junk, so I want to close up the hydraulic/transmission system for testing. I also plan on draining and replacing the hydraulic fluid and the filter before testing the transmission.

My question is, can I simply plug the input/output fittings on the transmission that go for the loader and the backhoe or do I need a bypass pipe of some sort? It seems to me plugs would be ok, as that's what quick disconnects do when removed, but I'm not experienced working on hydraulic systems.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

John

DMW · Jul 26, 2023

Nice project to find. There is a lot of life left in that unit.
Clip or cap the cable at the throttle linkage, the excess sticking out can puncture the rad hose over time. The tractor will over heat without the fan being replaced. The same hydraulic system powers the hydrostat, front end loader and backhoe. If it moves, the system should be good. Easiest way to check pressure is to put a gauge on the FEL control valve. Give it a good cleaning, makes finding leaks a lot easier. Electrical connectors were not lubricated from factory, they may all need some cleaning. Fuel system is self bleeding, no need to crack open the fuel lines. Unless the hydraulic lines have rotted in the sun, most should be ok. I have a 2004 GC2300 with 900 hours, the only lines I have had to replace are from flexing at the fittings.

added: When you change the hydraulic fluid, if it drops clear i would keep the filter on. Fill with some not too expensive fluid that meets spec, do all the repairs, then a complete fluid and filter change afterwards. And get a guard for the filter.

ray66v · Jul 27, 2023

That may very well be the most tortured GC in the world.

Very sad to see it in that condition.

I would think that anyone who would do that to it, did minimal maintenance on it.

If the transmission filter is painted to match the transmission housing, it's a clue that it's never been changed.

hube2 · Jul 27, 2023

ray66v said:
That may very well be the most tortured GC in the world.

Very sad to see it in that condition.

that was pretty much my reaction as well

DMW · Jul 27, 2023

Most of it buff out

, I would be worried about the condition of the valve block of the backhoe.

WranglerX · Jul 27, 2023

Quick and dirty test of hydraulics/pump would be to put a gauge into one of the quick connects for the FEL and dead head the control valve long enough to get gauge reading.... Think pressure should be about 1900PSI...

Hydraulic Tools - BoltOnHooks LLC

Bolt-On Hooks and Hydraulic Tools for compact tractors.

www.boltonhooks.com

Scroll down to " Hydraulic Pressure Test Gauge"....
IF your 2310 is similar to the 1700 series....And as for replacing FAN, check to see if you have splines on drive shaft at engine connection, if so you should be able to unbolt driveline at engine and pull it off spline connection on HST....

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johng650 · Jul 27, 2023

Thanks again for all the responses. Especially DMW.

I have a new video up showing the results of the hydrostatic drive and hydraulics tests. Spoiler: the drive works, as does the steering, but I cant get the 3 pt to raise and lower.

It's my feeling that the three point should be a basic part of the hydraulics system and shouldn't need any external piping to work. But I'm not sure at this point.

I have a service manual on order. It's a few weeks out.

Does anyone have feedback on the three point not moving? It's not frozen, I can lift and lower the arms by pushing on them. Any other suggestions or comments are appreciate.

johng650 · Jul 27, 2023

A few responses:

To WranglerX:

"Quick and dirty test of hydraulics/pump would be to put a gauge into one of the quick connects"

All the quick disconnects are totally rusted. I don't think any of them will disconnect and some of them are rusted to the point where they just snap off if you touch them. None of the hydraulic hoses are in any condition to actually use.

"And as for replacing FAN, check to see if you have splines on drive shaft at engine connection"

Yes, the engine end of the drive shaft yoke has a spline. Unfortunately the spline is quite rusted together. I actually cut the drive shaft in half with a cut-off wheel to get it out. I've heated the yoke end of the spline with a torch, applied a LOT of PB blaster, beat on it with a brass hammer and it will not budge. At this point I'm going to probably try to get a replacement U-joint and get a shop with a powerful press to push the spline out of the yoke.

To DMW:

"I would be worried about the condition of the valve block of the backhoe."

No need to worry. It is a complete ball of rust. All the levers are just little peaks of rusted off metal. Every hydraulic hose has it's ferule (sp?) rusted off. It's a complete mess.

Thankfully I was able to get a 6 valve block on Vevor for $180 that looks like it can be made to work for the backhoe.

Thanks again everyone!

DMW · Jul 28, 2023

Is your serial number below or above JNA25201. It can make a difference.

I believe the addition of the FEL valve control changers the routing of the hydraulic fluid to the 3pt hitch. When you capped off the lines, you may have stopped flow to it. The 2310 also has extra hoses that I am no familiar with.

Check the orientation of the driveshaft U joints before final installation. It can affect drive-line vibration.

Because of the amount of rust, you might want to slit open (do not remove) the steering tie rod boots to inspect. Even with holes in the boot, regular spraying with fluid film will keep them lubricated.

Parking brake sounds like it is stuck on in the video.

Clean the rusted cylinders by hand as well as you can, waste of money to replace them. I assume you are not worried if it leaks a little bit.