Oil & Fuel GC2300 Fuel Shut off relay part number

loulblades · Jul 8, 2014

With all that has been going on I haven't had a chance to be here for awhile.

So now I come calling with a problem.

It was quite a shock for me when one day I turn the tractor key off and the engine doesn't cooperate. I suffocated the engine that day but after some research, found the push rod under the rubber boot on the fuel shutoff solenoid that I am currently using to shut down.

I then applied 12 volts to test the solenoid and it did shut down.

So now that brings me to the fuel shut off relay (the 10 second relay that pulls in the shutoff solenoid).

I have a parts manual but it is not clear to me which relay (there is no fuel shutoff relay that I can find) although I found the relay on the tractor that is located on the left side of the steering column support.
In the parts manual looking at Chassis - Switch System a relay is shown that I am inclined to believe is the fuel shutoff relay and has (ENGINE) under it (pg. 177).
Looking at Engine - Electric (2) - Switches, Solenoid & Relay (Pg. 54) I see a relay (part # 3710474M1) but I don't know if this is THE relay.

If anyone knows the part number for the fuel shutoff relay I would appreciate the feedback.

TIA,
Lou

ray66v · Jul 8, 2014

I wouldn't rule out the ignition switch. There have been many corroded ones, and some with broken wires.

loulblades · Jul 8, 2014

ray66v said:
I wouldn't rule out the ignition switch. There have been many corroded ones, and some with broken wires.

I didn't consider the ignition switch because everything else that required the switch to be on worked (fuel gauge, lights, etc.).

I went back and looked at the schematic again and realized that I somehow overlooked the 5 amp fuse that powered the relay.
The fuse was bad and after replacing it the system worked.
Of course the question of the cause of the fuse going bad may need to be addressed.
Maybe it just got old and tired (Hey it could happen, right?), like me.

Thanks for the reply.
Lou

ray66v · Jul 8, 2014

loulblades said:
I didn't consider the ignition switch because everything else that required the switch to be on worked (fuel gauge, lights, etc.).

I went back and looked at the schematic again and realized that I somehow overlooked the 5 amp fuse that powered the relay.
The fuse was bad and after replacing it the system worked.
Of course the question of the cause of the fuse going bad may need to be addressed.
Maybe it just got old and tired (Hey it could happen, right?), like me.

Thanks for the reply.
Lou

If there is corrosion on the switch, it could cause higher current draw.

Let us know how long the fuse lasts.

rotaxtwin · Jul 15, 2014

I have the exact same problem on my 1431. I replaced the ignition switch; it felt funny so I disassembled and found a broken spring stud, it worked for ~3 on/off cycles after install to test, I also replaced the blown 5 amp relay fuse. I mowed some grass and when I got done it wouldn't shut off. I checked and the 5 amp fuse was blown again. I looked up the part numbers on the solenoid and relay and I wow sticker shock. I haven't disassembled the tractor further to check the solenoid, relay and wiring because I can't have it down that long. If I find out anything I'll post it here. Good luck and let us know.

Fragger · Jul 23, 2014

Thanks for the information guys .

rotaxtwin · Aug 19, 2014

Any info? Here's where I'm at. I took a look at the time delay relay that is under the dash and it seems to be fine. I opened it up and it didn't look or smell burned. The capacitor wasn't bulged and none of the resistors or diodes were burnt. This leaves me with the fuel shut off solenoid. That's bad because it's almost $300 from Massey. I will try to find an aftermarket one but if not, at $300, I will make a manual shut off out of a piece of metal rod. I'll take it off and try to test it this weekend and let you know what I find.

ray66v · Aug 19, 2014

The fuel shut off solenoid would be easy to test.

Run 12 volts directly to it, cycle it several times, to make sure it works.

Use and amp meter to see how much current it is drawing, and see if it is over 5 amps.

If all that is okay, it probably isn't bad.

That still leaves the ignition switch, and the wire connectors, that could be bad?

If the solenoid seems to work, You could hook up your own wiring to the solenoid, with a heavy gauge wire, a heavy duty switch, and a slightly bigger fuse. Not great, but at least you could turn it off.

rotaxtwin · Aug 22, 2014

Ray,
Thanks for the tips. I already had to replace the ignition switch for a broken contact standoff so that's eliminated and as I said the solenoid gets the next round of testing. I'm pretty sure it's bound up which is causing my problem. I just hate to admit it due to the cost of it if I have to replace it.
Thanks again.
I post updates this weekend.