GC 47 hrs...50 service questions...

[Wacky]

Alright, almost time. I just had a few questions regarding the procedure. I plan on taking my rear wheel off to access and inspect the suction filter. Where is a safe place to jack up w/o damaging the soft cast. I thought the hitch would be safe. And to empty and refill the front axle, if I remove the 2 vent plugs, refill cap and drains. do I need to jack one side of the axle to get everything out? Should the tranny and axle be warm like the engine or does it matter? Does 90w gear oil put extra pressure on the axle seals when cold or hot? Thanks guys for you input. I am planning on going with Permatran in the tranny not sure about the ft axle yet. I am going to purchase the oil, Fuel filter, trans filter and oil filter this week and maybe do this upcoming weekend:thumbsup:.

 

[ray66v]

Alright, almost time. I just had a few questions regarding the procedure. I plan on taking my rear wheel off to access and inspect the suction filter. Where is a safe place to jack up w/o damaging the soft cast. I thought the hitch would be safe. And to empty and refill the front axle, if I remove the 2 vent plugs, refill cap and drains. do I need to jack one side of the axle to get everything out? Should the tranny and axle be warm like the engine or does it matter? Does 90w gear oil put extra pressure on the axle seals when cold or hot? Thanks guys for you input. I am planning on going with Permatran in the tranny not sure about the ft axle yet. I am going to purchase the oil, Fuel filter, trans filter and oil filter this week and maybe do this upcoming weekend:thumbsup:.

What is this 20 questions?

1. Perhaps you forgot the tractor has a built in jacks? (Just use the outriggers).

2. As long as the tractor is level when you drain the front axle, the two drains should remove the fluid. You only need to fill it on one side though.

3. Oil does not need to be warm to drain, it just drains faster if it is. If you have time you can drain oil cold. We routinely drain aircraft oil over night, because it drains so slowly.

4. Extra pressure on the axles seals from 90w? . Stop thinking about it so much, the MF book says it's okay ain't that good enough? There is not as much difference in the viscosity as you think. Use a gear oil with an EP designation, yes it's over kill. But so what, it's not expensive. You can even get synthetic gear oil for about $5 a bottle, if you around shop for it.

 

[Wacky]

What is this 20 questions?

1. Perhaps you forgot the tractor has a built in jacks? (Just use the outriggers).

2. As long as the tractor is level when you drain the front axle, the two drains should remove the fluid. You only need to fill it on one side though.

3. Oil does not need to be warm to drain, it just drains faster if it is. If you have time you can drain oil cold. We routinely drain aircraft oil over night, because it drains so slowly.

4. Extra pressure on the axles seals from 90w? . Stop thinking about it so much, the MF book says it's okay ain't that good enough? There is not as much difference in the viscosity as you think. Use a gear oil with an EP designation, yes it's over kill. But so what, it's not expensive. You can even get synthetic gear oil for about $5 a bottle, if you around shop for it.

:laughing:I should have proof read my title. Do I need the BH attached?? I was going to do this w/o the BH. I have been doing some reading in some old threads about syn vs. mineral. What is the Amsoil hydro fluid you are using? I think I may go that way with all my oils for the sake of long change intervals and cold starting. 10w30 engine, and 90w, and the hydro oil from Amsoil. Question is what about the existing oil in all the cylinders? Should I bleed the old oil out or let it mix?

 

[ray66v]

If I remember correctly, the last time, I raised the tractor with the outriggers, and put blocks under the bottom of the hitch. Then, I lowered the tractor down on the blocks. Pulled the B/H pins, and let the backhoe come away from the tractor on the top. But, I left it in the cradles on the bottom.

This allowed the removal of the tire, access to the oil filler, and the sight glass.

Someone also said once, you can actually get the screen out, without removing the tire.

 

[Wacky]

If I remember correctly, the last time, I raised the tractor with the outriggers, and put blocks under the bottom of the hitch. Then, I lowered the tractor down on the blocks. Pulled the B/H pins, and let the backhoe come away from the tractor on the top. But, I left it in the cradles on the bottom.

This allowed the removal of the tire, access to the oil filler, and the sight glass.

Someone also said once, you can actually get the screen out, without removing the tire.

I don't have the BH on my property right now. I saw that post about the screen being removed w/ tire on, but I am going to remove it just to see exactly what is in the tranny.:thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

:laughing:I should have proof read my title. Do I need the BH attached?? I was going to do this w/o the BH. I have been doing some reading in some old threads about syn vs. mineral. What is the Amsoil hydro fluid you are using? I think I may go that way with all my oils for the sake of long change intervals and cold starting. 10w30 engine, and 90w, and the hydro oil from Amsoil. Question is what about the existing oil in all the cylinders? Should I bleed the old oil out or let it mix?

Your choice, on the B/H. I left it on.

I think about 1/2 of us are using the Amsoil (ATH) hydraulic oil. No one has ever reported any problems with using it. It is very difficult to find the actual specs for Permatran published, but it is very good oil. The Amsoil should give an advantage in cold weather ops. It does cost about twice as much as the Permatran. Amsoil heavy duty diesel oil, (ACD) is actually a 30 weight that passes the standard for a 10w30. It has high TBN number, (12), which is very good when protecting the engine from the acids that are a by product of burning diesel fuel.

Don't lose any sleep over the existing oil in the cylinders, you can't get it all out with out a lot of trouble. Most synthetic oil is derived from mineral oil, and it will mix fine with any replacement products.

 

[ray66v]

I don't have the BH on my property right now. I saw that post about the screen being removed w/ tire on, but I am going to remove it just to see exactly what is in the tranny.:thumbsup:

If you have the B/H off, just put a floor jack under the hitch.

 

[jaybrad]

Where is a safe place to jack up w/o damaging the soft cast. I thought the hitch would be safe.

When I did that service on mine, I took the BH off mine since it's easier to fill the tranny (and *try* to use the sight glass to tell when it's full) with the BH out of the way. I just use a floor jack under the hitch and lift both wheels off the ground. That's also how I put the chains on/off. Much easier than messing with laying them out on the garage floor. Been doing it that way for several years and haven't had any problems...yet.

Jay

 

[Chooglin]

I just did my 50 hr. sevice today.I took my B/H off and used the hitch to jack it up.

I warmed mine up before draining ,just to make it drain a little quicker.

I removed both drain plugs on the front axle ,then removed the fill cap to vent it while drainig.

My manual calls for hydraulic fluid in the front axle (2007 GC 2310) did they change the specs. since then? :confused2:

 

[not2old]

2010 GC2610TLB I did most of my 50 hour service a few days ago. The factory manual calls for Permatron in the front axle. I haven't done that yet as the dealer sold me too little fluid. I did manage to drain 10 litres and get the whole container into the transmission/hydraulic reservoir. You need to take the hoe off to see the sight glass for the hydraulic fluid and it makes refilling easier. You will save some cussing if you grease the two nipples on the swing cylinder while the hoe is off and the book says to use a drift punch to line up the two pins if necessary when re-attaching it. I didn't have a drift the right size and live too far from a supplier so I spent over 1/2 hour getting the pins back in. Hope you have better luck. I used a floor jack to hold the tractor up while removing the wheel and had no problems with that. It was a little tricky re-installing the suction screen, making sure everything was clean going back together. The screen had very little debris on it. I didn't use the fuel filter as it was spotless and the air filter was clean too. I have the factory repair manual, but found all the information I needed in the owner's manuals. I cut the bottom from a one litre oil container to use as a funnel for both the engine oil and hydraulic fluid. This worked better than any of the funnels I had.