Gannon earthcavator or regular box blade.??

[Raised on a Deere]

I want to catch the attention of you guys who are familiar with Gannon box blade. I have been around tractors all my life but never seen a box blade being used and did not know what they were for. The ones I saw were sitting in the weeds with a tree growing up through it. I am catching on after successfully grading one building site with a loader but seeing that there could be a better way to move dirt. I need to grade some more building sites, level some drive ways, control some water runoff with berms etc. the biggest thing, which you can laugh at if you wish, and make those cute scoffing remarks if so inclined, is when I have nothing else to do and just want to go drive the tractor is to dig a pond. I have the idea of just running back and forth across the swag with the rippers down some right amount to loosen the dirt so the blades can grab the dirt and drag as much dirt as I collect on each pass and drag it up the side away from the pond a ways where it can be graded out. I plan on adding top-n-tilt to finesse the angles during the drag. And of course the excellent loader with the piranha tooth bar gets in on the act. I had thought about just using the breaking plow to loosen the dirt and the loader to move it. Haven't tried that yet either.

For some reason used box blades are all but non existent in Craig's list for my area so I am looking at new. I know I need to have a heavy blade such as the everything attachments super extreme 6' but just am wondering about the Gannon. It doesn't appear from the pictures that it can be set to rip and drag at the same time. And I don't even know if I am thinking right about how the box blade will work in conjunction with the rippers. Haven't priced the Gannon but know it is going to be a lot more but I am willing to pay for something that gets the job done.

 

[jeff9366]

I have a Bush Hog brand Rollover Box Blade.

With a ROBB you can rip dirt, pull dirt or push dirt but only one function at a time.

ROBBs require less adjustment in use than standard Box Blades. When I have a full day of ROBB works to do I install a Hydraulink Top Link in lieu of the Kubota factory Top Link. The ROBB + Hydraulink combo hardly ever requires adjustment during the day.

ROBBs are a little more expensive than standard Box Blades due to the quantity of steel used. ROBBs are all heavy.

I try to keep all my tractor implements as simple as possible. ROBB is simplicity itself.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A Gannon 6 foot with hydraulic actuated rippers is about the best thing for your needs. This will run you about $3500 and if you are thinking a "T&T" set, then you will need 3 rear remotes. The Next best unit in my opinion would be a roll over box blade, (ROBB). Gannon quit making these about 10 years ago, so you now have 2 options, a Dirt Dog or an Eagleline unit. I recommend the Eagleline units because they are just a bit heavier than the Dirt dog units. Should run about $2200-$2500.

These ROBBs work very well and are what ALL the landscapers used up until the hydraulic actuated units became more readily available. If you don't want to go to the trouble of arranging 3 rear remotes on your tractor, you may want to opt for a ROBB.

I have a 65" & an 81" Gannon ROBB for my 32hp and 75hp tractors and they work great for me.

 

[TripleR]

I don't have a Gannon, but rather a very similar Land Pride HR3584 with hydraulic rippers. I have three rear remotes with Top and Tilt and really like it. I have no experience with a ROBB, but I'm sure they work great.

 

[murphy1244]

I don't have a Gannon, but rather a very similar Land Pride HR3584 with hydraulic rippers. I have three rear remotes with Top and Tilt and really like it. I have no experience with a ROBB, but I'm sure they work great.

3R, Can you post some pics of your box blade? I need to see how the hydraulics are hooked up so I can put that on mine. Need to know what the cylinder length is fully closed and fully open. Thanks for any reply's.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

3R, Can you post some pics of your box blade? I need to see how the hydraulics are hooked up so I can put that on mine. Need to know what the cylinder length is fully closed and fully open. Thanks for any reply's.

You need a 4" stroke cylinder, cat 1 ball swivel on the rod end and clevis end on the cylinder. You can buy one from woods for about $500 or make your own. You don't need to duplicate the OEM mounts though. Come up with something on your own and just use a tube end unit, but you will still use a 4" stroke unit.

 

[murphy1244]

You need a 4" stroke cylinder, cat 1 ball swivel on the rod end and clevis end on the cylinder. You can buy one from woods for about $500 or make your own. You don't need to duplicate the OEM mounts though. Come up with something on your own and just use a tube end unit, but you will still use a 4" stroke unit.

Thanks much Brian.

 

[murphy1244]

Is the cylinder fully closed when the chisels are down?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Is the cylinder fully closed when the chisels are down?

Yes, it sure looks like it.

 

[TripleR]

3R, Can you post some pics of your box blade? I need to see how the hydraulics are hooked up so I can put that on mine. Need to know what the cylinder length is fully closed and fully open. Thanks for any reply's.

I don't have a close up of mine, this is the best I have, but I am including a link that might help, Brian already addressed the length. I have OEM cylinders on my L5740, but got the one for our M8540 from Brian.

This is with the smaller scraper, but works the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3bOCFXeLec