FWD vs. MFWD - What's the difference? Which is better, and why?

[ArtVandelay]

Any responses will be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[RoyJackson]

Any responses will be appreciated.

Thanks.

You're not going to see FWD on too many CUTs, so MFWD is probably your only option. FWD on most tractors is full time...not the part time assist on my little Deere or other fine brand. Even MFWD isn't required for too many tasks. Pushing snow...sometimes loader work.
So, which is better? Neither when MFWD is engaged. But you are asking for an apples to oranges comparison.

I do expect FWD tractors have a more robust drive train...but you are looking at heavy metal. And the tractors match the scope of the work.

Bored, huh?

 

[art]

A true FWD tractor has the same front tires as the ones on the rear.

 

[ArtVandelay]

Is FWD or MFWD required when mowing in wet clay soil? How about when plowing 6-12 inches of snow? If so, at what horsepower would FWD/MFWD not be needed for these tasks? 55hp or more, or less?

Thanks.

 

[jbrumberg]

Is FWD or MFWD required when mowing in wet clay soil? How about when plowing 6-12 inches of snow? If so, at what horsepower would FWD/MFWD not be needed for these tasks? 55hp or more, or less?

Thanks.

ArtVandelay:

I do not believe you need a 55HP tractor for your stated needs and from reading your previous posts. I suggest you get on each of the major brand's websites and make use of their respective tractor need analyzer software programs and input your data. The results should give you a recommended HP range and tractor frame size. I use MFWD when mowing my lower 7A's, but it is more a function of traction on my slopes. I would not advise mowing wet grass or on wet slopes as your "cut" will not be as fine and you will lose traction on slopes. Clay will make for even more slippery conditions if your tractor is heavy enough to sink in the soil. Tire selection is important and your primary use should dictate choice. If you have mud like I have I would recommend weighted R-1's especially if traction, stability, and ground engaging attachments are primary needs, R-4's for FEL work, and R-3's for grass/lawn work. There is light and fluffy or heavy wet snow and everything in between. My 29 HP MFWD tractor easily handles 12+ inches of snow. If I remember correctly the biggest snow we got last year was 17" and I had no trouble with that snow amount. I did have problems with my ULSD fuel gelling. Hope this helps- Jay

 

[Z-Michigan]

I pretty much agree with Jay. You don't need a real big tractor for mowing and moving snow. I would recommend either empty R4's with MFWD or weighted R1s with 2wd. I have filled R1s with MFWD and I have as much traction as I could ever use and then some. This setup is great for heavy duty tillage work but unnecessary for almost anything else (including loader work if you have proper ballast on the 3ph). I have also found that while I can keep moving and even pull an implement in foot-deep mud, there is virtually no useful work I can do when the soil is that wet. If you try to mow when the soil is wet enough that you get a benefit (much less need) MFWD, you won't be needing to mow that area again for a year or two! Maybe if you were skidding logs in spring it would be useful, but for most homeowner or farming tasks it is not needed. It is easy to overestimate how much tractor you need, but underestimate how many implements you will want once you see what you can do with a tractor - in other words, keep $$$ available for additional implement purchases.

 

[MuttonPower]

Is your name really Art Vandelay or are you a Seinfeild fan Like I am?

by the may mfwd will be sufficent for you.

 

[Greyfields]

MFWD I think is preferable. In a related question, I have been locking in the MFWD while plowing, discing and harrowing. Is that standard procedure?

 

[RoyJackson]

MFWD I think is preferable. In a related question, I have been locking in the MFWD while plowing, discing and harrowing. Is that standard procedure?

Try it without the MFWD. If that works, you may as well save wear and tear on the front axle components.
Even before engaging the MFWD, use your differential lock first if you lose traction. That's why your tractor has a differential lock. Your 4120 should be heavy enough to not lose traction too often

 

[Z-Michigan]

I have been locking in the MFWD while plowing, discing and harrowing. Is that standard procedure?

Pretty much agree with Roy, but even if you don't need to use it to have sufficient traction, using MFWD for those tasks will probably reduce wheel slippage and therefore fuel usage. This can be measured per the procedure in your owner's manual if you *really* want to.

I use MFWD for plowing, rear blade work and discing in soil conditions where there's fair resistance. I generally don't use it for much else. I can disc in 2wd but get a bit more slip. Using my scarifier I cannot keep moving in 2wd with all 7 shanks in the ground more than 4" or so, while I can easily do this in 4wd.