frontend loader rebuild

   / frontend loader rebuild #1  

dav38spl

New member
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Messages
7
Tractor
L2350DT
i had to replace my bucket on my loader. The only thing i need is the steel for the front edge on the bucket but before I buy it. Should i get any type of special steel to use on it?
 
   / frontend loader rebuild #2  
Bolt-on or weld-on? If weld-on, are you going to be doing this at home and what is your welding experience level?
 
   / frontend loader rebuild #3  
Basically you need cutting edge material. It is hardened and more difficult to weld on if that is what you choose. There is a specific way to do it with a specific kind of rod.

Bolt on would be easier. Just be sure to get a cutting edge with the holes already drilled, that way you only have to drill the bucket.

BTW, you didn't mention how big the tractor/loader is.

Most of the smaller CUT's and SCUT's use either 3/8" thick or 1/2" thick edges that are about 6" wide x however longe your bucket is.

So a search online for cutting edge or grader edge material. Something like what is bolted to a snow-plow would work quite well.

And some members on here often talk about picking up used grader edges from the local township/county/highway departments for next to nothing as well.
 
   / frontend loader rebuild #4  
i had to replace my bucket on my loader. The only thing i need is the steel for the front edge on the bucket but before I buy it. Should i get any type of special steel to use on it?
Here is a photo of a JD FEL bkt I refurbed. I shopped around for some
1/2" x 6" x 60" beveled plow steel for the cutting edge. Some tractor
dealers had it but wanted hundreds for a piece! I found some at a steel
disti for about $1/lb. This size is about 60#. I also cut out and
replaced the top lip with some thick-walled pipe, and the bottom
carcass with some 1/8"x10"x60" A36 steel plate.

"Plow steel" is a hot-rolled medium carbon steel with about 120K psi tensile
strength, referred to as C-1055. It is quite weldable, but pre-heating is
helpful for over 1/2" thickness. I stitch-welded mine, alternating side-to-
side with a DC buzz-box and 7018 rod. I did 1-2" stitches.

OTOH, drilling holes in this plate would be no fun, even with cobalt bits.
 

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   / frontend loader rebuild #5  
best bet might be to go to your local tractor dealer and see about ordering a replacement cutting edge for a like sized bucket, and then trimming it to length with an abrasive wheel and either bolt on or weld on as mentioned already.
 
   / frontend loader rebuild #6  
I haven't bought any myself but I've had this bookmarked for a while just in case.


CUTTING EDGE
 
   / frontend loader rebuild
  • Thread Starter
#7  
the edge is welded on. thanks for the link. i am getting one of the welders i work with to come over and do the work. i can weld ok but i want it better than just ok
 
   / frontend loader rebuild #8  
Earthmover cutting edges from Borium, Manganese and Hardox 400 can be welded without any problems. For the bucket itself, just mild steel is what is used even on commercial payloaders, unless you're rock digging.
Over here, you can buy weld-on bucket lips which are intended to protect the main cutting edge on 5 yard buckets as an additional wear lip when loading a concrete plant out of concrete bunks, but on my frontloader i used it as a standalone cutting edge.
 
   / frontend loader rebuild #9  
Northern tools sells them different lengths.
 

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